Pod lights, Front position lamps, parking lamps, front sidelights... don't work...

[Beerdrinker]

Dear bikers, I need your help!
I disassemble the front fairing and remount it but now the parking lamps wont work!
I connect everything correctly, check it and recheck it, and disconnect it and reconnect it... check fuses, cables... and both bulbs are ok. The only think I can remember that I can do is measure the power with a multimeter from the fuse until reach the bulb.
I found this [URL="http://www.dre.vanderbilt.edu/~aky/Bikes/Manuals/Service/FZ6/FZ6%20electrical.pdf[/URL] wiring diagram but, as far as I understand, the problems I'm trying to solve are the numbers 65 and 66 (front turn signals are working), but how should I measure?
I only know how to use a multimeter in a very basic way. I need the cable colors, where to find it... (Like you would explain to a kid what to do in a Whorehouse...(I hope you use this expression in English!))
Any other suggestions to solve the problem are very welcome and appreciated.
Thank you!


P.S. I remove the front fairing while studying the retrofit possibility.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

We don't have parking lights in the states.....

If the same lights with the bike ON, don't work, THERE SHOULD BE only TWO WIRE CONNECTORS (at least on the US models) inside the left side of the inner fairing.

Sounds like something is not connected correctly.. Did you do ANY electrical work with the nose off?

 

[Beerdrinker]

We don't have parking lights in the states.....

If the same lights with the bike ON, don't work, THERE SHOULD BE only TWO WIRE CONNECTORS (at least on the US models) inside the left side of the inner fairing.

Sounds like something is not connected correctly.. Did you do ANY electrical work with the nose off?

I already notice they aren't used in USA.
I just remove the fairing and reassembled it. There are two connectors on the left side and two others under the speedometer. It's everything connected, I checked, no bent pins or any other visual problem... I almost got crazy and spend half of the past sunday trying to solve the issue!

 

[FinalImpact]

Did you by chance unplug the actual indicator lamps while the fairing was off? i.e. the connectors from the indicator lamps?

Under the Left Head Lamp is the grey connector to the left turn. To the left of the head lamp, is the other half of the grey connector. This allows the indicators to be removed.

Are these plugged in? Yes, I added pod lights.

 

[Beerdrinker]

Did you by chance unplug the actual indicator lamps while the fairing was off? i.e. the connectors from the indicator lamps?

Under the Left Head Lamp is the grey connector to the left turn. To the left of the head lamp, is the other half of the grey connector. This allows the indicators to be removed.

Are these plugged in? Yes, I added pod lights.

Yes, everything connected and working, except the pod lights!
If someone knows the +- color cables of the podlights i will try to search were the circuit is interrupted.
While in States the pod lights are unused, in here he get a fine (ticket??) if they aren't working!

 

[FinalImpact]

Did you confirm the bulbs are ok? Maybe the jarring broke the elements. Remove them and see if they have power in the socket!

Title says more items are not working; just pod lamps?

 

[Beerdrinker]

Title says more items are not working; just pod lamps?

Really?
Sorry, I don't know the correct name, I search in wikipedia, and according to it, the lights have all this names, depending on country...y...

 

[Motogiro]

Yes, everything connected and working, except the pod lights!
If someone knows the +- color cables of the podlights i will try to search were the circuit is interrupted.
While in States the pod lights are unused, in here he get a fine (ticket??) if they aren't working!

On the front of the FZ6, the 2 OEM directional stalks have 2 filaments in one lamp/bulb. One filament is the directional and one filament is the running light. The running light is the same circuit and source for voltage as it would be in other countries. Many people switch over to LEDs for their directionals and terminate the front running light circuit. The wire that carries the voltage for the running light or pod lights should be a blue/ with red tracer which may change to just blue color when it exits the harness.
This same circuit is also on the same fuse as the directional signals, so if the directional signals work you know the fuse is good. If you turn the key on you should have a tail light lit. There are also 2 filaments in the OEM brake light lamp/bulb. One for running light and one is for the brake (brighter) light. So logically you would look for directionals. No directionals, probably points to a blown fuse. If it did blow then why did it blow? No tail light but you have directionals? Look for damage to wiring or harness.

 

[FinalImpact]

Really?
Sorry, I don't know the correct name, I search in wikipedia, and according to it, the lights have all this names, depending on country...y...

haha!
OK - here we have been know to call these Pod Lights.... Which IMO makes no sense as the OEM directionals seem more like 'pods' to me.

 

[Beerdrinker]

This same circuit is also on the same fuse as the directional signals, so if the directional signals work you know the fuse is good. If you turn the key on you should have a tail light lit. There are also 2 filaments in the OEM brake light lamp/bulb. One for running light and one is for the brake (brighter) light. So logically you would look for directions. No directionals, probably points to a blown fuse. If it did blow then why did it blow? No tail light but you have directionals? Look for damage to wiring or harness.

This is what gets me crazy, I know the fuse is the same for the rear running light and pod light, and the rear one is working! Everything (thankfully) is working except the pod lights! I thought I could had connected something wrong, so frustrated I was, but all the plugs are different, so no possibility of that (and I disconnect and reconnect everything). That's why I conclude the only possible and logical thing happening was some cable damage somewhere between the fuse and the bulbs (the bulbs are fine...).

When I turn the key to the parking position (I would assume in USA this position isn't used since you don't have pod lights) the rear running light is working so I think the problem isn't in the main switch. Can it also be?


Thats why I ask for your help, this is driving me crazy! You can't imagine how many beers I drank looking the bike and wondering "why??":beer:

I don't understand the electric scheme, but you gave me some tools. I will search the

The wire that carries the voltage for the running light or pod lights should be a blue/ with red tracer which may change to just blue color when it exits the harness.

and see if it is broken somewhere. I think is my last chance before the Yamaha dealer, I don't know what else to search!

Thank you very much for your help!

Why I get myself into these things?:spank:

 

[Beerdrinker]

haha!
OK - here we have been know to call these Pod Lights.... Which IMO makes no sense as the OEM directionals seem more like 'pods' to me.

I don't even know what "pod" means... and wikipedia don't mention this nomenclature, I used it because I read it here in the forum while referring to that "little bulbs on the outer front of the headlight lenses"


"Front position lamps",[18] known as "parking lamps" or "parking lights" in the US and Canada,[7] and "front sidelights" in British English, provide nighttime standing-vehicle conspicuity.[22] They were designed to use little electricity, so they could be left on for periods of time while parked. Despite the UK term, these are not the same as the side marker lights described below.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autom...n_lamps_.28parking_lamps.2C_standing_lamps.29

 

[Cloggy]

If you have the 2007 service manual the wiring diagram is on the very last page, The numbers of all the components are listed just before the diagrams. If you look down at the bottom of the left hand part of the diagram you will see 2 number 79's these are the auxiliary light bulbs (or pod lights). These are on the same fuse as the tail light (nr 69) and the license plate light (nr 68). As Cliff (motogiro) already said these are connected on a blue wire with red striping. If everything else is working (tail/brake light and licence plate light) then ýou have a wiring problem. wishing you luck.

 

[Motogiro]

This is what gets me crazy, I know the fuse is the same for the rear running light and pod light, and the rear one is working! Everything (thankfully) is working except the pod lights! I thought I could had connected something wrong, so frustrated I was, but all the plugs are different, so no possibility of that (and I disconnect and reconnect everything). That's why I conclude the only possible and logical thing happening was some cable damage somewhere between the fuse and the bulbs (the bulbs are fine...).

When I turn the key to the parking position (I would assume in USA this position isn't used since you don't have pod lights) the rear running light is working so I think the problem isn't in the main switch. Can it also be?
View attachment 65066

Thats why I ask for your help, this is driving me crazy! You can't imagine how many beers I drank looking the bike and wondering "why??"[emoji481]

I don't understand the electric scheme, but you gave me some tools. I will search the and see if it is broken somewhere. I think is my last chance before the Yamaha dealer, I don't know what else to search!

Thank you very much for your help!

Why I get myself into these things?:spank:

Relax eventually you will find it. You may have lost the ground return. You can check to see if there is voltage at the pod light socket. Measure for voltage using a screw on the frame or the engine for ground. If you see the voltage it will confirm the loss of the ground return.

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[Beerdrinker]

Relax eventually you will find it. You may have lost the ground return. You can check to see if there is voltage at the pod light socket. Measure for voltage using a screw on the frame or the engine for ground. If you see the voltage it will confirm the loss of the ground return.

Sent from Moto's Motorola

Yay, I lost my ground!
I measured, positive (blue wire with red stripe) with one engine screw and it has current!
So I believe I lost my ground!

I'm happy because you found the cause but... where is my ground and why do I lost it? Any ideas to where I should look?

In last case I connect the ground in another wire, but besides the alterations I may do, I like to keep everything the most original possible or, in case I cant do that, easily reverse.
Many thanks for your help!

 

[Beerdrinker]

If you have the 2007 service manual the wiring diagram is on the very last page, The numbers of all the components are listed just before the diagrams. If you look down at the bottom of the left hand part of the diagram you will see 2 number 79's these are the auxiliary light bulbs (or pod lights). These are on the same fuse as the tail light (nr 69) and the license plate light (nr 68). As Cliff (motogiro) already said these are connected on a blue wire with red striping. If everything else is working (tail/brake light and licence plate light) then ýou have a wiring problem. wishing you luck.

In mine (2006) are the 65 and 66.
Thank you

 

[FinalImpact]

With an ohm meter set to low range (10 ohm or lower), and the harness unplugged in the fairing; place one lead on an engine ground (-) and on the harness side (not fairing) verify you have continuity to the ground wire. If you get like 1 ohm you're good.

Repeat test on the fairing side from the grey socket ground to lamps socket ground contact.

One of these is open and should return high resistance. Mind you a meter uses super low energy for testing. The smallest weakest single strand of wire can return zero ohms and Test Good but FAIL to carry current that lights a lamp.

An alternative test is the 12v test lamp as it draws current to light it up. So with a test lamp and knowing we are testing for ground (battery Negative ), simply connect the test lamp to battery + and probe for ground on the bike side harness. The lamp should light if the ground is good.

To test the fairing side once you know the bike side is Ok, connect the connector in question and back probe the connection to confirm test lamp powers up past the connector and then test at the lamp end.
Doing this will verify its fairing side thats bad (assuming the bike side was tested good). We now know the defect is on the fairing side. This isolates where we look for damahe and defects.

Do you have a 12v test lamp?

 

[Beerdrinker]

With an ohm meter set to low range (10 ohm or lower), and the harness unplugged in the fairing; place one lead on an engine ground (-) and on the harness side (not fairing) verify you have continuity to the ground wire. If you get like 1 ohm you're good.

Repeat test on the fairing side from the grey socket ground to lamps socket ground contact.

One of these is open and should return high resistance. Mind you a meter uses super low energy for testing. The smallest weakest single strand of wire can return zero ohms and Test Good but FAIL to carry current that lights a lamp.

An alternative test is the 12v test lamp as it draws current to light it up. So with a test lamp and knowing we are testing for ground (battery Negative ), simply connect the test lamp to battery + and probe for ground on the bike side harness. The lamp should light if the ground is good.

To test the fairing side once you know the bike side is Ok, connect the connector in question and back probe the connection to confirm test lamp powers up past the connector and then test at the lamp end.
Doing this will verify its fairing side thats bad (assuming the bike side was tested good). We now know the defect is on the fairing side. This isolates where we look for damahe and defects.

Do you have a 12v test lamp?

Sorry for my late reply but I am with little time this days.
I don't own a 12v test lamp but I can build something similar in 2 minutes... two cables and a 12v bulb. I think I prefer this meted as I never used an ohmmeter and the bulb lighting up is easier.

Many thanks for your help, I think this weekend I may have a couple of hours for fun and I will spend them trying to solve... solving this problem!
As soon as I solve it I tell you what was wrong

Thank you!

 

[FinalImpact]

Sorry for my late reply but I am with little time this days.
I don't own a 12v test lamp but I can build something similar in 2 minutes... two cables and a 12v bulb. I think I prefer this meted as I never used an ohmmeter and the bulb lighting up is easier.

Many thanks for your help, I think this weekend I may have a couple of hours for fun and I will spend them trying to solve... solving this problem!
As soon as I solve it I tell you what was wrong

Thank you!

Just remember your goal is to complete the circuit.

If testing for a proper ground, your test lead goes to suspect "GND WIRE" and then use Battery POS (+) for power. Lamp should light if Ground is in fact Ground.
If testing for +12V battery power, simply use a known good ground as your NEG (-). Lamp should light at Maximum if +12V is present. Obviously testing the headlight circuit requires the engine be running long enough to trigger the ECU and then us the KILL switch (not key to keep circuit alive.

To test a length of wire that is not connected to the bike: the same thing applies;
Connect suspect wire to Battery NEG. Connect Test lamp to other end of suspect wire. Connect open end of test lamp to Batt +. If the wire section is good, the lamp lights. But Honestly, a Meter is much easier to use in this particular test. Here you would expect to see like 1 ohm or less if the meter were on 20 or 10 ohm scale. Some may just auto range and report 0 - 2 ohms.

You're are set! Good luck!