PC3 Installed - Remarks, Questions

[Zealot]

As the title says, I finally got around to smacking in a PC3 today which I purchased from our very own petergreko!

Got the wiring hassle out of the way and everything into place, fired it up and threw the map in (got it from Hellgate, since his setup was nearly identical to mine and didn't seem crazy on the added fuel). I recall FinalImpact mentioning to ensure the TPS values matched up, and the TPS read 2% by default - so I tweaked the TPS numbers slightly until it read zero, and off I went.

First gear at low RPM seemed smoother, and my shifts from first into second, and then the following gears had a lot less jerk than it used to; sometimes feeling like I hadn't shifted at all. It appears there was a fair bit more get up and go than there used to be - and while I'm not on some hyper strung R6, it was a bit more perky and certainly fun. There does seem to be some residual snatchiness however if I'm not gentle with the throttle, but I feel like it's just part of the nature with the bike seeing as it's got a bit more of a high strung engine configuration and the very abrupt cut off in fueling innate to it. While riding, if I closed the throttle and then went to open it, I'd still get a bit of a kick but it was more isolated and smooth - so I can't complain too much. A careful roll on was like butter. (I'm going to double check my chain slack to make sure it's up to snuff, although it appears to be)

Highway, all is well, and I think I'm imagining things when I say for 120km/h it was sitting just above 6KRPM whereas before it was just on the line to hold the speed... I feel like I just didn't pay as much attention to it before, and could care less about this. The bike seemed to run a few degrees hotter around the board, but not by much.



As for questions...

The bike takes an extra second to start up now; can I assume this is because of the PC3 power draw? They suggested starting come bikes before the FI run (when you turn the key) was complete to ensure the bike starts up, but mine does even with the whole process over and done with - just takes a second longer.

Using a map that hasn't been fully calibrated to my bike is of course not the most ideal situation. It seems like it went in fine and operation seems improved across the board, but I think a proper bike specific dyno might be in the works. Regardless, I want to ensure I'm giving the currently available maps to me the best trial I can - and by that I need to ensure that my TPS readings match up where they should be. What would be the best method of calibrating the position with the PC3 software or otherwise?

Now that I've got a grasp on the connectors and how to get them apart, I'd like to look into the CO adjustment due to the fact my idle still wubs a bit, although is overall a -ton- more smooth when the bike is warmed up. I could buy an O2 sensor eliminator alternatively (I think), but I'd like to investigate the CO adjustment with the wire ground. The PC doesn't influence anything below 20% throttle position, so I figured this might help with the residual straight line off/on throttle snatch. Can I use both of these together?

Are there any particular things I should watch for now that it's installed? I'm new to all this and a little timid about certain aspects of tweaking; very scared about blowing my bike up.

 

[FinalImpact]

So you can't access 0, 2, 5, or 10% TPS but you imported a map that MAY have had values edited in those ranges but you can't see them?

Mod the MAP while disconnected and add fuel. Save and import.

I'm not going to go much further until you know if thats a CARB spec controller. If so, it may not allow it even if you do import it. you'd have to test it or do some reading/research.

 

[Zealot]

So you can't access 0, 2, 5, or 10% TPS but you imported a map that MAY have had values edited in those ranges but you can't see them?

Mod the MAP while disconnected and add fuel. Save and import.

I'm not going to go much further until you know if thats a CARB spec controller. If so, it may not allow it even if you do import it. you'd have to test it or do some reading/research.

Can't access them due to the person who dyno'd and made the map discovering that below 20% TPS, it was a closed loop when the O2 sensor is in place. The match in bike mods/parts between mine and Hellgate's was confirmed, which includes an O2 sensor on both of our bikes. As such - the values are all zero in there, and it sounds like there were no tweaks made. To my knowledge even were I to try and add numbers to the idle, it wouldn't make a difference.

To get the map into place and have the device recognized, I had to have the bike running - I'll poke around next with a 9v battery however. Would you be able to elaborate on CARB Spec Controller? All I'm finding is a bunch of diet pills.

 

[FinalImpact]

Can't access them due to the person who dyno'd and made the map discovering that below 20% TPS, it was a closed loop when the O2 sensor is in place. The match in bike mods/parts between mine and Hellgate's was confirmed, which includes an O2 sensor on both of our bikes. As such - the values are all zero in there, and it sounds like there were no tweaks made. To my knowledge even were I to try and add numbers to the idle, it wouldn't make a difference.

To get the map into place and have the device recognized, I had to have the bike running - I'll poke around next with a 9v battery however. Would you be able to elaborate on CARB Spec Controller? All I'm finding is a bunch of diet pills.

I opened his map without owning a PC controller. Try it "NOT connected" and see what you see. Without hardware, I could edit the map and save it too. So you could too.

CARB meaning, sold for street use vs track use, hence the reason you are locked out and not seeing things (I suspect).

BIG TIP: you did read the PC install, yes? Unplug the O2 sensor!!! Anytime you're at cruise the OEM ECU is trying to ALTER the MAP you just loaded to the PC.
i.e. the OEM ECU will make EVERY attempt to NORMALIZE the map back to ITS Expectations so you must unplug the O2 sensor. Feel free to throw a plug in the pipe too.

 

[Jb40k]

Using a map that hasn't been fully calibrated to my bike is of course not the most ideal situation. It seems like it went in fine and operation seems improved across the board, but I think a proper bike specific dyno might be in the works.... What would be the best method of calibrating the position with the PC3 software or otherwise?

Excellent write up and pretty much exactly the same experience I had with mine.

I found that using the maps provided by DynoJet on their website were a good interim solution before going for a custom remap. The main issue I had was that every 'stock' map seemed to cause the bike to run very rich, one map even halved my MPG (however made the Scorpions sound AWESOME!). I tried a few, uploading them through my laptop onto the PC3, they were all an improvement on power delivery, but still not quite perfect.

I'd highly recommend chatting with a local tuner for the best possible results.

 

[Jb40k]

Also, this...

BIG TIP: you did read the PC install, yes? Unplug the O2 sensor!!! Anytime you're at cruise the OEM ECU is trying to ALTER the MAP you just loaded to the PC.
i.e. the OEM ECU will make EVERY attempt to NORMALIZE the map back to ITS Expectations so you must unplug the O2 sensor. Feel free to throw a plug in the pipe too.

There are a handful of kits on eBay, I got one from Greece (link).

 

[FinalImpact]

Here is where i can't get a straight answer out of the tuner gods... S2's have catiliytic converters in the headers. If they shove a probe into the tail pipe through a slip on, how do they know the efficiency of the header CAT to calculate the tune?

And its not like those tiny CATs are 100% efficient at all engine speeds. Anyway, I suspect its part of the reason so many maps end up rich and adding to much fuel.

Z, disconnect the battery after the O2 sensor is unplugged or the OEM ECU will be running with some values it held onto from having the sensor connected!

 

[FinalImpact]

Also, this...

There are a handful of kits on eBay, I got one from Greece (link).

Closer than UK for OP...
Link its just the plug for $5 in SS so it won't react to pipe and bond.

Without active electronics, the plug isn't doing much but it does keep moisture out and those found elsewhere.... A rubber boot will do tho! Expensive moisture plug....

 

[Zealot]

Z, disconnect the battery after the O2 sensor is unplugged or the OEM ECU will be running with some values it held onto from having the sensor connected!

Noted. I'll unplug the sensor in addition to the battery. Wasn't aware that having it plugged in would mess around with the rest of the readings.

A rubber boot will do tho!

So, O2 sensor plug or boot - I guess they're effectively the same thing. It says it simulates the effective range but the plug is for the FJR1300 as opposed to our bike - wouldn't that mean some different mappings? Also, if I were to pull out the O2 sensor from the exhaust and let it dangle - wouldn't that give it some sort of '100% oxygen' read and make things a bit wonky? I'd almost think just unplugging the connector under the tank and leaving it (I'd wrap it with some electrical tape or a small baggie) would accomplish things most easily.

 

[FinalImpact]

Noted. I'll unplug the sensor in addition to the battery. Wasn't aware that having it plugged in would mess around with the rest of the readings.

In short the OEM ECU attempts to restore order and balance as it knew it. So it changes the fueling (think override fuel controller outputs) in an attempt to meet its expectations, thus rendering the PC inputs as unknown as we dont know which values are winning.

• YES, unplug it under the tank! Perfect!
• Place a rubber boot over the OEM O2 inputs!
• And finally, insert a SS plug in the header. Done!
• Then see if it helps the off/on throttle transition.

Leaving the O2 sensor in there un heated ruins it. It should be pulled.

Those fake O2 simulator plugs are crap and dangerous!

 

[Zealot]

• YES, unplug it under the tank! Perfect!
• Place a rubber boot over the OEM O2 inputs!
• And finally, insert a SS plug in the header. Done!
• Then see if it helps the off/on throttle transition.

Going to be an anxious week waiting on all this stuff in that case! A couple more bucks to truly unlock the potential won't hurt. Thanks for the info!

 

[Zealot]

O2 sensor gone and no change... Hmm.