Zealot
The Village Idiot
As the title says, I finally got around to smacking in a PC3 today which I purchased from our very own petergreko!
Got the wiring hassle out of the way and everything into place, fired it up and threw the map in (got it from Hellgate, since his setup was nearly identical to mine and didn't seem crazy on the added fuel). I recall FinalImpact mentioning to ensure the TPS values matched up, and the TPS read 2% by default - so I tweaked the TPS numbers slightly until it read zero, and off I went.
First gear at low RPM seemed smoother, and my shifts from first into second, and then the following gears had a lot less jerk than it used to; sometimes feeling like I hadn't shifted at all. It appears there was a fair bit more get up and go than there used to be - and while I'm not on some hyper strung R6, it was a bit more perky and certainly fun. There does seem to be some residual snatchiness however if I'm not gentle with the throttle, but I feel like it's just part of the nature with the bike seeing as it's got a bit more of a high strung engine configuration and the very abrupt cut off in fueling innate to it. While riding, if I closed the throttle and then went to open it, I'd still get a bit of a kick but it was more isolated and smooth - so I can't complain too much. A careful roll on was like butter. (I'm going to double check my chain slack to make sure it's up to snuff, although it appears to be)
Highway, all is well, and I think I'm imagining things when I say for 120km/h it was sitting just above 6KRPM whereas before it was just on the line to hold the speed... I feel like I just didn't pay as much attention to it before, and could care less about this. The bike seemed to run a few degrees hotter around the board, but not by much.
As for questions...
The bike takes an extra second to start up now; can I assume this is because of the PC3 power draw? They suggested starting come bikes before the FI run (when you turn the key) was complete to ensure the bike starts up, but mine does even with the whole process over and done with - just takes a second longer.
Using a map that hasn't been fully calibrated to my bike is of course not the most ideal situation. It seems like it went in fine and operation seems improved across the board, but I think a proper bike specific dyno might be in the works. Regardless, I want to ensure I'm giving the currently available maps to me the best trial I can - and by that I need to ensure that my TPS readings match up where they should be. What would be the best method of calibrating the position with the PC3 software or otherwise?
Now that I've got a grasp on the connectors and how to get them apart, I'd like to look into the CO adjustment due to the fact my idle still wubs a bit, although is overall a -ton- more smooth when the bike is warmed up. I could buy an O2 sensor eliminator alternatively (I think), but I'd like to investigate the CO adjustment with the wire ground. The PC doesn't influence anything below 20% throttle position, so I figured this might help with the residual straight line off/on throttle snatch. Can I use both of these together?
Are there any particular things I should watch for now that it's installed? I'm new to all this and a little timid about certain aspects of tweaking; very scared about blowing my bike up.
Got the wiring hassle out of the way and everything into place, fired it up and threw the map in (got it from Hellgate, since his setup was nearly identical to mine and didn't seem crazy on the added fuel). I recall FinalImpact mentioning to ensure the TPS values matched up, and the TPS read 2% by default - so I tweaked the TPS numbers slightly until it read zero, and off I went.
First gear at low RPM seemed smoother, and my shifts from first into second, and then the following gears had a lot less jerk than it used to; sometimes feeling like I hadn't shifted at all. It appears there was a fair bit more get up and go than there used to be - and while I'm not on some hyper strung R6, it was a bit more perky and certainly fun. There does seem to be some residual snatchiness however if I'm not gentle with the throttle, but I feel like it's just part of the nature with the bike seeing as it's got a bit more of a high strung engine configuration and the very abrupt cut off in fueling innate to it. While riding, if I closed the throttle and then went to open it, I'd still get a bit of a kick but it was more isolated and smooth - so I can't complain too much. A careful roll on was like butter. (I'm going to double check my chain slack to make sure it's up to snuff, although it appears to be)
Highway, all is well, and I think I'm imagining things when I say for 120km/h it was sitting just above 6KRPM whereas before it was just on the line to hold the speed... I feel like I just didn't pay as much attention to it before, and could care less about this. The bike seemed to run a few degrees hotter around the board, but not by much.
As for questions...
The bike takes an extra second to start up now; can I assume this is because of the PC3 power draw? They suggested starting come bikes before the FI run (when you turn the key) was complete to ensure the bike starts up, but mine does even with the whole process over and done with - just takes a second longer.
Using a map that hasn't been fully calibrated to my bike is of course not the most ideal situation. It seems like it went in fine and operation seems improved across the board, but I think a proper bike specific dyno might be in the works. Regardless, I want to ensure I'm giving the currently available maps to me the best trial I can - and by that I need to ensure that my TPS readings match up where they should be. What would be the best method of calibrating the position with the PC3 software or otherwise?
Now that I've got a grasp on the connectors and how to get them apart, I'd like to look into the CO adjustment due to the fact my idle still wubs a bit, although is overall a -ton- more smooth when the bike is warmed up. I could buy an O2 sensor eliminator alternatively (I think), but I'd like to investigate the CO adjustment with the wire ground. The PC doesn't influence anything below 20% throttle position, so I figured this might help with the residual straight line off/on throttle snatch. Can I use both of these together?
Are there any particular things I should watch for now that it's installed? I'm new to all this and a little timid about certain aspects of tweaking; very scared about blowing my bike up.
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