Overheating issue plz help

[Ssky0078]

Re: Update for my cooling problem.....not good..

Yeah, sorry. Somehow I missed the whole first page of this thread. :spank:

No worries, I think what happened was he had started this as one thread, then changed the title to another thread. So the first page wasn't really there when you probably saw the second thread. The admin eventually merged the thread.

Anyway, it's all good and I hope to hear how he figured out what the issue is.

 

[yamihoe]

ssky:
not to sound disrespectful; but isnt the boiling point irrelevant when the cooling system is under pressure?
iirc running pure distilled water will exchange heat better than any mix of antifreeze.
BUT antifreeze does have its purpose: it helps the seals on the waterpump and the rubber hoses, the aluminum, and of course it doesnt freeze :BLAA: ect.
with the exception being dexcool, GM really screwed up every car they ever put that crap in, turns into molasses and clogs radiators, passages, waterpumps, everything it touches.

 

[Marthy]

ssky:
not to sound disrespectful; but isnt the boiling point irrelevant when the cooling system is under pressure?
iirc running pure distilled water will exchange heat better than any mix of antifreeze.
BUT antifreeze does have its purpose: it helps the seals on the waterpump and the rubber hoses, the aluminum, and of course it doesnt freeze :BLAA: ect.
with the exception being dexcool, GM really screwed up every car they ever put that crap in, turns into molasses and clogs radiators, passages, waterpumps, everything it touches.

Agree with you. 50/50 is way good enough. 223F seams right and by the time you add 15 psi or so the boiling point is much higher...

If the fan is ok, check your thermostat. I had issue with that in one of my cage in the past. Coolant is good for 2 years... then junk! I don't have the bike with me but a quick test is to pull it out and boil it. It should open around 160F or so. If it boil and still not open (212F)...junk.

 

[Ssky0078]

ssky:
not to sound disrespectful; but isnt the boiling point irrelevant when the cooling system is under pressure?
iirc running pure distilled water will exchange heat better than any mix of antifreeze.
BUT antifreeze does have its purpose: it helps the seals on the waterpump and the rubber hoses, the aluminum, and of course it doesnt freeze :BLAA: ect.
with the exception being dexcool, GM really screwed up every car they ever put that crap in, turns into molasses and clogs radiators, passages, waterpumps, everything it touches.

No disrespect taken. The issue is that when a substance goes from a liquid to a gas it takes up more space and thus creates more pressure. There are limitations to the materials used in every system. The assumption is that the fluid will be circulated through the system efficiently picking up heat, taking it to the radiator, allowing convective heat to transfer it to the radiator fin's and then the fan will blow the heat off, thus reducing the overall heat burden on the system.

As I'm sure everyone on this forum has figured out by now that no system is perfect and there are a certain amount of fail safes in place. Such as the radiator cover, because if the fins are damaged on the radiator then they are not able to allow convection to take place as efficiently.

My point is that by using a blend that has a higher boiling point the substance in this case ethylene glycol/water blend stays in a liquid form and exerts less pressure on the system in this case the engine and it's associated cooling system parts (hoses, water pump (not worried about the radiator as it is a pretty solid piece of equipment)). I've lived in AZ for 12 years now and have had overheating-cooling system issues on a couple of cars. I'd rather play safe than sorry on my bike.

And you're right, pure distilled water is one of the best conductors of heat, and it's abilities are slightly reduced by adding stuff to it like ethylene glycol, but again I'd rather control the pressure in the system and know that it will keep circulating without blowing.

 

[Ssky0078]

One more point and somebody correct me if I'm wrong but the coolant warning light kicks on at 240F and the Blinking temp gauge is 260F. I think at both of those junctures it is recommended to pull over and turn off the motorcycle. At those temps pretty much any blend would be past the boiling point and exerting an dangerous amount of pressure on the hoses/cooling system.

Also, I'm assuming you'd keep the accessory power on so the fan could keep blowing. Again, I can't remember what the owner's manual said off the top of my head.

 

[Marthy]

One more point and somebody correct me if I'm wrong but the coolant warning light kicks on at 240F and the Blinking temp gauge is 260F. I think at both of those junctures it is recommended to pull over and turn off the motorcycle. At those temps pretty much any blend would be past the boiling point and exerting an dangerous amount of pressure on the hoses/cooling system.

Also, I'm assuming you'd keep the accessory power on so the fan could keep blowing. Again, I can't remember what the owner's manual said off the top of my head.

The pressure is regulated by the radiator cap and let the liquid/pressure bleed out so you don't bust a hose or radiator. Should be somewhere around 13-17 psi... can't remember.

I worked on old school cars. One of them is a 56 Ferrari 250 GT. The radiator weight about 50 lbs made out of copper and is about 2 x 2 foot, 4" thick! Someone previously put a 13 psi rad cap on it. It blew up the tank!!! I didn't know and never bother even looking at it. The radiator guy told me to use a 7 psi cap for this size of rad.

The big thing now... make sure to top off the coolant level since it overheated and might have lost some coolant?

 

[Ssky0078]

The pressure is regulated by the radiator cap and let the liquid/pressure bleed out so you don't bust a hose or radiator. Should be somewhere around 13-17 psi... can't remember.

Thanks, I guess I always forget about the cap, but to tell you what I really don't want to have hot steam coming out right at me knee. And again, this is to assume the cap is working properly and not sticking.

I didn't know there were different pressure ratings for caps. That's pretty cool.

 

[Marthy]

Thanks, I guess I always forget about the cap, but to tell you what I really don't want to have hot steam coming out right at me knee. And again, this is to assume the cap is working properly and not sticking.

I didn't know there were different pressure ratings for caps. That's pretty cool.

Yep. Street cars use 13-18 psi if I can remember well. On race cars it can go up to 30 psi with a proper system.

In the Champ Car days on the Cosworth engine. We were warming up the engine up to 70C (or so) topping the coolant to a certain level then capping the system. We were adding 25-35 psi (kind of like blowing up a tire) when the engine temp was warm.

Here something I remember reading last year...
http://www.nascar.com/en_us/news-me...nascar-change-temperature-speeds-daytona.html

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

13.2-17.5 lbs for the 07 FZ per my shop manual.

IMHO, being it actually blew a fuse, and keeps blowing the fan fuse, its more than just a fluid issue, there's a mechanical short somewhere causing that fuse to blow.

Even if there was little coolant in there, the fan should still run without blowing the fuse, obviously it wouldn't cool much if any, but the fan should work... My moneys on a shorted wire somewhere...

 

[Ssky0078]

13.2-17.5 lbs for the 07 FZ per my shop manual.

IMHO, being it actually blew a fuse, and keeps blowing the fan fuse, its more than just a fluid issue, there's a mechanical short somewhere causing that fuse to blow.

Even if there was little coolant in there, the fan should still run without blowing the fuse, obviously it wouldn't cool much if any, but the fan should work... My moneys on a shorted wire somewhere...

I think this is a different owner/bike thread. The gentleman that had the fuse blowing chimed in at one point on this thead and said he was using a 7.5amp fuse instead of the 20amp (or something like that).

The person that started this thread said the fuse tested out in good condition.

 

[david323]

I think this is a different owner/bike thread. The gentleman that had the fuse blowing chimed in at one point on this thead and said he was using a 7.5amp fuse instead of the 20amp (or something like that).

The person that started this thread said the fuse tested out in good condition.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/47469-replace-your-radiator-fan-fuse.html <--This thread

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think this is a different owner/bike thread. The gentleman that had the fuse blowing chimed in at one point on this thead and said he was using a 7.5amp fuse instead of the 20amp (or something like that).

The person that started this thread said the fuse tested out in good condition.

"fzsixx", the starter of this thread, on the first post of this thread, posted the "fuse was blown". In the same post, he replaced the fuse but the bike still overheated with no fan kicking on (did not mention the fuse condition then..)

yamahaboyz in post #9, posted about using a smaller fuse instead of the 20 amp for the fan, (see above post by David) trying to help, it wasn't "fzsixx"

"fzsixx" later said the fuse checked out..

I'm not sure the status of the fuse at this time but I am curious, Why did it blow the first time?


fzsixx, did you have anything done to the bike recently, any mods, service work, etc?

 

[Motogiro]

So I ran into my first problem today i was out for a ride and I was sitting at a long light when I noticed my coolant temp light came on and the temp gauge was flashing at me so I found a safe place to pull over and let it overheat again and I noticed the fan never came on and the bike was at 250 deg... So i got her home and as long as i was moving the temp was fine but if a sat to long it crept back up. Haynes manual said to check the fuse first so I did and the 20A fuse was blown I replaced the fuse and let her run and she overheated again all the way up to 250 deg and no fan any help would be great thanks guys -Matt

Is the OP still following this thread
Has the fan motor been checked for operation. When checking the fan please note that it could be dead shorted so if you run 12volts from the battery to the fan motor, you might want to have an inline fuse unless you're like me and it doesn't take you long to examine a horse shoe! LOL!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Is the OP still following this thread

Good question!

 

[Ssky0078]

Is the OP still following this thread
Has the fan motor been checked for operation. When checking the fan please note that it could be dead shorted so if you run 12volts from the battery to the fan motor, you might want to have an inline fuse unless you're like me and it doesn't take you long to examine a horse shoe! LOL!

Good question!

He's a local guy but, I haven't met him yet though. He had made mention before about working some long hours, like 12 hour shifts.

I keep waiting for him to come back with an update.

 

[fzsixx]

hey guys sorry it took so long to get back to ya wasa hard at work.. But an update the fuse was blown (dont know why) but i replaced it and checked voltage to it and checked the relay. I also checked the temp sensor and it was all good there so i lifted the tank and removed the battery and hooked 12v up to the fan and nothing. So im pretty sure its the fan cost me 200 bucks from cheap cycle parts everyone else wanted 250-300 so hopefully she lives again after i replace it. thanks guys for all your help and for talking about antifreeze because that prob would of been my next tread since i gotta pull off the radiator to replace the fan :BLAA: -Matt

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like you found the problem!

BTW, You should be able to replace the fan with just removing the bolts holding the radiator to the frame. It'll pull out a bit (did that for a spark plug change).

If it is crappy in there, it's probably is a good idea to pull it compleatly and flush it good. I'd also either flush the hoses or remove them one at a time and flush (again, if the fluid is real nasty), especially the middle lower hose to the round, oil cooler. If its not nasty, I'd flush it assembled, maybe pull a lower hose and let the water do its thing..

The drain bolt (with a brass or copper washer) at the bottom of the water pump also tends to collect crap as its the lowest part of the system, I'd pull that and let the fluid flow. (With the radiator cap off, the coolant will flow quickly) . Rinse off the cap good too.

Don't forget to flush the overflow tank, two bolts to R&R.

Please post your results...


Just a side note, as previously posted, the fan is known to jam with rocks/pebbles kicked up from the front tire. If you can attach something at the bottom of the radiator to block any debris from going up inbetween the radiator and the fan should extend the life of your new fan indefinitly. The below pic's show a gaurd I made out of thin aluminum for my 07:

 

[Motogiro]

hey guys sorry it took so long to get back to ya wasa hard at work.. But an update the fuse was blown (dont know why) but i replaced it and checked voltage to it and checked the relay. I also checked the temp sensor and it was all good there so i lifted the tank and removed the battery and hooked 12v up to the fan and nothing. So im pretty sure its the fan cost me 200 bucks from cheap cycle parts everyone else wanted 250-300 so hopefully she lives again after i replace it. thanks guys for all your help and for talking about antifreeze because that prob would of been my next tread since i gotta pull off the radiator to replace the fan :BLAA: -Matt

Good work!