Adding a second problem doesn't fix the first problem....
Just jokes mate, hence the smiley face.
Zoom
Junior Member
I know, I just want to make sure everyone knows that carbs = problems! FIS must have been the best upgrade to the vehicle industry, no more needles and floats to adjust...
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You may want to try a "G2" throttle tamer. They have different versions for quicker turning , slowing turning and adjustable turning for how fast the throttle opens. Some of the guys on the FJR forum likes them. I did put one on a customers kawasaki 1400 Concours. It seemed well made and installed pretty easy. I just checked and the FZ6 is listed...
Also, the tighter you can keep your throttle cables (without BINDING) it seemed not as jerky. I try to keep mine at taught as possible...
Yamaha Motorcycle Products and Throttle Tubes by G2 Ergonomics
Also, the tighter you can keep your throttle cables (without BINDING) it seemed not as jerky. I try to keep mine at taught as possible...
Yamaha Motorcycle Products and Throttle Tubes by G2 Ergonomics
Geez, only thought you could get larger cams, not smaller. Nice one. Who's going to take the grenade and try one!? They're not cheap though.....
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Yes you can go either way.. My friends concours has been moded some and he needed to calm the throttle response down some...
Wyotech kid
Junior Member
I agree with keeping the cables tight. But I read in a Sport Rider article recently about taking corners better. It may sound crazy but it works because I've been doing it works well on the street, waiting to try it at the track.
When you start braking and prepare for the corner usually you left off the throttle down shift etc. blip the throttle etc. All while doing that the chain receives tension and then slack because of the throttle. The article said to use the throttle to slow you down by keeping it opened.
I read further and it said just crack the throttle enough to take the slack out of the chain and as go through the apex and nail the gas it helps take out some the jerk we feel and the suspension has settled and sort of preloaded and prepared for WOT. I been doing that for a couple of weeks now and what a difference it has made on my cornering.
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Naykid
I agree with keeping the cables tight. But I read in a Sport Rider article recently about taking corners better. It may sound crazy but it works because I've been doing it works well on the street, waiting to try it at the track.
When you start braking and prepare for the corner usually you left off the throttle down shift etc. blip the throttle etc. All while doing that the chain receives tension and then slack because of the throttle. The article said to use the throttle to slow you down by keeping it opened.
I been doing that for a couple of weeks now and what a difference it has made on my cornering.
Ummm thanks but i already know how to ride. I roadraced AFM and still do trackdays. No chicken stips here. I'm not trying to cover up a problem. I'm trying to fix a problem so the bike can be ridden smoother like it's supposed to be ridden.
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Naykid
I did think of different throttle tubes and even different throttle cams ....but that doesn't fix the lean condition that makes the bike jerky. I read today on Ivan web site that Yamahas fuel injection system SHUTS OFF THE INJECTORS when deccellerating below 45 mph...making the 0n/off throttle response a nightmare. He doesn't have fixes for the FZ6 either....just the FZ1.
Kenfz6
Junior Member
I have a set of the G2s with the longer/softer throw cam. It does a minimal amount to help with the on/off effect. They are a nice piece of work, I like the fact that there is more throttle movement per change in engine output. I generally ride in the lower half of the revs, unless I am WOT, so the softer cam works for me.
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Per my 2004 FJR Yamaha shop manual, yes, the injectors shut down. Not at a certain speed but from signals from the TPS. Should the TPS sense, the throttle closed /closing, (engine braking) "the ECU executes a deceleration fuel cut off". This is done for fuel economy. Charts are posted for injection rates at warm up, hot, de-cel, etc.
I suspect the FZ6 is the same but the speed has nothing to do with it, throttle position (thru the TPS)/engine RPM's do. With the stock ECU, I would think smoother on the throttle, (not turning it off fully) when cornering would help keep the ECU from going into the fuel economy mode...
Can this be adjusted thru a power commander or such? Or does the ECU over ride that on de-cel?
The on-line FZ6 manual doesn't address this.
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Naykid
Good info thanks. I may call Power Commander and ask them does their PC3 eliminate the shut off.
deeptekkie
Junior Member
Probably not your problem but driveline snatch, (loose chain), is always my first suspect when this is happening to me.
The Power Commander doesn't eliminate shut-off with their usual maps. I'm wondering though where all figures are zero on their map (ie around idle and zero TPS) if you just changed them to 'one', would this keep the injectors open?
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I can tell you that when my 04 FJR had the TPS re-call done (and it had another corroded wirng problem that they couldn't find) Yamaha headquarters had the dealership set the TPS a little higher than the specified range, which richens up the mixture (how much I don't know).
This of course is telling the computer to add more fuel as the computer thinks there's more throttle opening than it actually is. So depending on how hard your engine braking/throttle partially on, perhaps adjusting the TPS to a slightly higher # than specified may help.
My FJR (all the Gen 1's,) were notorius for lean surg under 3k. Guys on the FJR forum came up with a jumper to change the CO settings (Barbarian jump) to fatten up the bottom end. I never did the jump and change the settings but the surge is about gone (once I found the corroded harness and cleaned/greased that up (under the tank).
This of course is telling the computer to add more fuel as the computer thinks there's more throttle opening than it actually is. So depending on how hard your engine braking/throttle partially on, perhaps adjusting the TPS to a slightly higher # than specified may help.
My FJR (all the Gen 1's,) were notorius for lean surg under 3k. Guys on the FJR forum came up with a jumper to change the CO settings (Barbarian jump) to fatten up the bottom end. I never did the jump and change the settings but the surge is about gone (once I found the corroded harness and cleaned/greased that up (under the tank).
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Naykid
More good info.....thanks. I bet this would work.
Spideyrex
Junior Member
I have an 06 and experienced the jerky throttle first hand. I added a PCIII (stock map and stock filter/exhaust) and it made a huge difference. The bike is much smoother in the off/on throttle transition. I think the bike is tuned very lean for emissions/mpg, but we pay the price in the jerky throttle. The PCIII is not cheap but it made my bike much more enjoyable to ride.
Shinn
Junior Member
I know Yamaha tried to fix the same problem with the 06 to 07 FZ1 by playing with the ECU. Now for 2010 they upgraded it to a better unit. Perhaps this could be a problem with our bikes, as we have a slightly older ECU running.
And that's probably one of the drawbacks of the FZ6 model demise......that we won't see any development we can upgrade to (with).
That's correct. The Fuel Cutoff, does just that. Everything dries out, and when you go for the gas again there is a delay, which is why you find yourself fishing for it. I believe the FCE stops the complete shutoff of fuel during engine braking so nothing dries out and there is no delay when you go back to throttle again.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...cut-eliminator-no-fz6-version.html#post293205
This is the thread, with mention of someone hopefully taking their bike there as guinea pig, but I guess it never eventuated
