Oil leak at/above crankcase?

[robronaldson]

I just recently developed an interesting oil leak within the last week or so and was hoping someone could shed some light onto what exactly is leaking (looks like the plug and not the case itself) and what I need to order or do to get it fixed.

I've attached some photos - I do all my own maintenance really, but have never come across something like this (though I suppose it could be worse).

Thanks in advance for your help, and sorry for the filthy bike - I just returned from an awesome trip and didn't want to risk washing any of the oil away.

Look how dirty my headers are :shakehead:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Looks like the rubber grommit that the stator wires run thru is leaking some. Kinda unusual but not a hard fix.

For where the grommit fits into the case and up against the case, Yamaha uses Yamaha bond. Its a greyish sealer (mostly used for center cases with no gaskets).

Unfortunatly, you have to pull the rotor cover off, (not hard, just fighting against the magetic pull). I would replace the side cover gasket at the same time (just so your NOT doing any "do-overs") Part #2:

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W CRANKCASE COVER 1 Diagram

Yamaha bond 1215, 90890-8505 This is aparently the replacement sealer: Yamaha Bond 4:
Yamalube Yamabond 4 Motorsport Semi Liquid Gasket Acc BOND4 MC 4 | eBay

 

[robronaldson]

Should I replace it? I also realized I probably posted this in the wrong section - it probably should have been placed in the maintenance section.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Should I replace it? I also realized I probably posted this in the wrong section - it probably should have been placed in the maintenance section.

The post will get moved to the correct section, don't worry about that.

Re replacement, your harness/rubber should be fine. Just pick up a tube of the above sealer and the side cover gasket and apply the sealer.

I would bath around the area your going to work, you don't want to drop any dirt in there...

And I believe you can pull that cover without draining the oil on the centerstand..

I suspect between the long ride, hot engine and road grime, it just seeped out of there and stuck to the road dust...

 

[FinalImpact]

When doing repairs / reseal activities getting the mating parts real clean = success.

Once the parts are separated all of the formed gasket and sealant must be removed. Preferably w/out damage to the surface. I use a good sharp putty knife or even a wood chisel. Be careful of the angles tho as its easy to gouge the soft aluminum. When done, wipe the areas to be mated with MAF cleaner or lacquer thinner. You want NO oil residue on any of the mating parts before sealant is applied.

Also, use the bare minimum as loose sealant inside the engine can plug the oil sump screen or be sucked through and plug oil passages.

On wider landings, keep the bulk of the sealant bead to the outside so that when mated, the material used is not forced inside the engine. You can do a test bed, push it together and then pull it apart to see how much goes inside.

As for a rubber grommet, the same thing applies. Clean it thoroughly, use just enough to full the voids but not too much. Assembly time varies with product but generally apply it and assemble quickly. Be sure to use criss cross pattern and torque to spec. i.e. not to excess.
Good luck!

 

[robronaldson]

Thanks for the update and all your help - looks like I've got a fun little weekend project now!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for the update and all your help - looks like I've got a fun little weekend project now!

Yippee!! Scraping gaskets!!!