Oil change FZ6

[mave2911]

Hi Guys and Gals,
I am preparing to do my first oil change on my new(ish) 2005 FZ6 (24000kms)

I have just read with interest in the R1 forums of a neat little way to expel more of the used oil out of the bike prior to oil change. (here)

My question is, does this work on the FZ6?

Can anyone confirm if you have the throttle pinned, that the bike wont start, or does the 'Diag' method work?

Any and all advice appreciated.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[txlyman]

IDK about cranking it with no oil.. but I prefer to take out the drain bolt and do it that way

Grab some aluminum foil and make a "slide" from the drain bolt to the catch container so you dont get oil all over the engine//exhaust.

I change my oil in all my vehicles more frequently than i should just so i know its clean(er)

 

[mave2911]

IDK about cranking it with no oil.. but I prefer to take out the drain bolt and do it that way

You do that in the above method too - and apparently cranking it clears out the oil passages that would otherwise just harbour dirty oil.

They ALL say it's amazing how much dirty oil comes out of the filter hole.

I see what they mean too, since you've just warmed your bike up, there should be oil over everything, so a couple of seconds cranking, with no ignition, shouldn't hurt anything.

And if it more completely expels the used oil, that can only be a good thing?

Cheers,
Rick

 

[keith w]

May work, but I'm not going to chance it. The way in the owners manual seems to work great for me. There's a good how to thread in the forum also. My view is if you wait a few minutes extra for the oil to drain you get enough out. If the 5% or less of oil you can't get out has some impurities, it will be adequately diluted when filled with fresh oil as to be of no concern. If you are concerned the owners manual way is not good enough, I would just change it more often. Just my opinion.:thumbup:

 

[Cali rider]

With a wet sump motor (this is what the FZ6 has) there is absolutely no need to rotate the motor without oil in the crankcase. This only empties the mechanical oil pump which doesn't hold more than 2-3 ounces of oil.

As stated above, if you are concerned about contamination just change it more often. Just my opinion.

 

[mave2911]

As stated above, if you are concerned about contamination just change it more often. Just my opinion.

The main reason I'm contemplating this, is that I'm going from the Shell Advance 20W50 crap the previous owner had in it to fully synthetic Motul 7100 (10W40)

Yeah, I know it'll just dilute it a touch, and they're essentially ok to be mixed, but I'd prefer to know what I'm playing with.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[04fizzer]

The main reason I'm contemplating this, is that I'm going from the Shell Advance 20W50 crap the previous owner had in it to fully synthetic Motul 7100 (10W40)

Yeah, I know it'll just dilute it a touch, and they're essentially ok to be mixed, but I'd prefer to know what I'm playing with.

Cheers,
Rick

Just change the oil and filter and ride it. You don't need to do anything more than that. If you're concerned about mixing the two oils, do another change at 1000 miles.

 

[iSteve]

Grab some aluminum foil and make a "slide" from the drain bolt to the catch container so you dont get oil all over the engine//exhaust.
(er)

How does the oil get on the header, are you changing the oil with bike on the center stand?

 

[04fizzer]

How does the oil get on the header, are you changing the oil with bike on the center stand?

It's quite common to get drips from the oil filter hole. The oil just runs down the case and drips onto the header.