Now I'm asking for help/ideas

[FinalImpact]

What's that about fault code 19 and the ecu?

I'm not entirely sold on the side stand thing because the way it shut down, I can have it in gear and flip it down and it will just kill the bike, no check engine light or anything else. Unless im misunderstanding yall about what your talking about with the side stand. When this happened the check engine light came on and then everything went blank.

Also how can you tell the difference between a fault code and error number, will there be a prefix before the number? I'm not 100% certain on what it said because it happened so quick but I'm 75% sure it said just 19

Just keep in mind that during start and run the ECU is polling all of the sub-systems in a go-nogo fashion. Something that teeters on the edge (not a clean 0 or 1) could be captured in memory. Not to say its what shut it down but what was in memory when it went down like a DTC code to a cage. It's a condition that has been reported but is not a hard error that stops the show or warrants attention.
Gut feeling is you have bigger issues either from the glycol or something being intermittent. Do the cleaning and inspection and see what comes of it. Put a tool to all grounds and open all critical connections.

What ever you use to clean the coolant spill, be sure to rinse with plain old water as too many cleaners remain acidic and can continue their efforts even after you thought they were done. Assemble connectors with dialectric grease or Scott will come over and punish you! :BLAA:

As for riding it in that manor; it does eliminate the fuel chop issue so many complain about!

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Just keep in mind that during start and run the ECU is polling all of the sub-systems in a go-nogo fashion. Something that teeters on the edge (not a clean 0 or 1) could be captured in memory. Not to say its what shut it down but what was in memory when it went down like a DTC code to a cage. It's a condition that has been reported but is not a hard error that stops the show or warrants attention.
Gut feeling is you have bigger issues either from the glycol or something being intermittent. Do the cleaning and inspection and see what comes of it. Put a tool to all grounds and open all critical connections.

What ever you use to clean the coolant spill, be sure to rinse with plain old water as too many cleaners remain acidic and can continue their efforts even after you thought they were done. Assemble connectors with dialectric grease or Scott will come over and punish you! :BLAA:

As for riding it in that manor; it does eliminate the fuel chop issue so many complain about!

I had something wierd happen to me. I kick it down and gag it, it's like it hesitates? Not to hijack this post.

 

[Motogiro]

Just keep in mind that during start and run the ECU is polling all of the sub-systems in a go-nogo fashion. Something that teeters on the edge (not a clean 0 or 1) could be captured in memory. Not to say its what shut it down but what was in memory when it went down like a DTC code to a cage. It's a condition that has been reported but is not a hard error that stops the show or warrants attention.
Gut feeling is you have bigger issues either from the glycol or something being intermittent. Do the cleaning and inspection and see what comes of it. Put a tool to all grounds and open all critical connections.

What ever you use to clean the coolant spill, be sure to rinse with plain old water as too many cleaners remain acidic and can continue their efforts even after you thought they were done. Assemble connectors with dialectric grease or Scott will come over and punish you! :BLAA:

As for riding it in that manor; it does eliminate the fuel chop issue so many complain about!

Excellent points! and yes, do not. Do Not! mess with Scott! :rockon:

 

[ChevyFazer]

Didn't get in too deep because of trying to get stuff sorted out for this work trip next week but I did double and triple check the side stand switch, kill switch, and tip over switch. Took the kill switch and side stand switch apart, cleaned them up best I could and did use dielectric grease on any plugs/connections. I also cycled each of them numerous times making sure they were working right and they performed as they should. I honestly don't feel like messing with it too much before I head out, I don't want to get into it deep and leave it unfinished if I can't find something out before I go because it would drive me nuts mentally knowing I left it incomplete. So I'll keep a eye on things and when I get back I guess I'm going to be going through the main harness checking all connections, wires, and grounds working my way from the reservoir out.

Any other ideas?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Excellent points! and yes, do not. Do Not! mess with Scott! :rockon:

LOL!!:thumbup:

 

[Motogiro]

LOL!!:thumbup:

:spank::rof: Now back to your regularly scheduled program.....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

:spank::rof: Now back to your regularly scheduled program.....

Oh great............. It IS for electrical connections, NOTHING ELSE....

Now back to your scheduled thread..:spank:

 

[FinalImpact]

Before the thread returns to its tracks;
Ran the Fiz much the same as posted above on 2 sections of our 200+ mile rides so roughly 80 mins total at > 8K. No electrical faults but man does it sound like a thrashing machine! Running Amsoil 10-40 full syn bike oil and this is by far the smoothest the engine has ever ran or shifted (great oil) but Heavens I wonder if it's coming apart??!! I saved the oil from the last OCI and I'm thinking of sending it in. Well if it works that way. Ya, I'd like to think it can handle it but I'm having doubts! I will say that riding it that way brings out the best in what she can offer!

Chev, when you get back to it, lift the seat/tank, disconnect the bat and unplug the ECM. You'll either have piece of mind or a look of OMG followed by wtf. . . Have a safe trip

 

[ChevyFazer]

Alrighty dug into it and it looks as though some steam made it into the main ecu connector. There was evidence that there were a couple drops of water inside the plug and likely was causing a slight short. When I say evidenced I could see some corrosion, I recently picked up a small contact cleaner that has some very fine polishing paper and files for cleaning contacts on motor starters and contactors at work so I brought that home and went to town cleaning each pin and polishing it. Puts some electric grease on it and around the seal to hopefully prevent any moisture from getting in there in the future. I also checked out any other connection that looked like it could have gotten wet. Both on the ones on the fuel pump and the scotch lock that I tied into for the co mod also had some corrosion, so cleaned the ones for the pump, replaced the scotch lock then heat shrinked it (which I thought I did before but obviously I was wrong) and checked over some other stuff. Electrically all seems to be in order now but I have 2 other issues that are worrying me though.
I tried powering the front end up yesterday and on its way up I herd this horrible grinding noise. Now I know my chain is super loose, I've run out of adjustment from not cutting off enough links when I installed the chain so it was a little long to begin with. I broke my chain tool doing my 4wheeler chain so ill be going to having some links cut out and the chain shortened late today after work but I worried that I might have damaged to something trying to power it up, I'm hoping it was just the chain trying to slip and my front sprocket is the only thing damaged if any damage has been done at all, I'll find out later. But the other thing that worried me was after putting it back together I checked my coolant level and as I was toping it off it looked as though there were drops of oil floating in it. My oil does not look like a milkshake or visa versa just a couple really small drops of what I think was oil floating in the coolant. Looks like I'm going to be draining it of all fluids to check closer and doing a compression test.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the chain was "super loose" to start with, it's likely it just spun on the front sprocket. If the front sprocket was badly worn, it'd be even more likely to spin without the chain. I suspect it'll be fine once shortened/tightened back to spec's. Its a good thing it didn't thrown thru the cases...

With the contacts cleaned and greased, you should be fine there as well.


With the coolant blowing out, eventually to the ECU connector and a slight bit of oil in the holding tank, is not a good sign.

Does the exhaust smell any different?

Pulling the spark plugs should show if you've blown a head gasket, coolant getting into the cylinder.

A compression test / leak down test would verify if the head gasket failed...

An easier way to check as well, obtain (auto parts stores often lend them out with a deposit) a pressure tool to check and see if the coolant system will hold pressure or if its leaking down..

While checking the manual just now I forgot about the oil cooler. Coolant and oil both run thru there as well..

Fingers crossed...

 

[FinalImpact]

Any chance you simply ate the plate again or NOT the same sound? A chain skipping has to raise h$ll if thats possible! (Can't be good).

Glad it's running and that's all better!

Some time ago a I saw an add for test strips you dip in the oil and they would detect glycol and stuff like that. Other than a single oil passage and the combustion seal itself, there is greater opportunity for water into the oil than oil into the water due to water pressure vs oil return path to crankcase.

Water/Glycol is heavier than oil so pull the plug for second or two and see if any comes out. Also pull the air cleaner cover and inspect the engines crank case breather. Make sure its not all white/milky.

 

[ChevyFazer]

So I went and saw my buddy over at supertech today, my local bike shop, I had actually bought a new rivet link about a month ago from them knowing my chain was out of adjustment but when my tool broke I put it off. I've been babying it since that one hard ride yet the chain just kept getting looser and looser (top to bottom couldn't even measure the slack anymore because it would hit the swing arm) but while we had the bike up on the lift we checked out the sprockets and could see a little evidence of it slipping on the REAR sprocket. That was a surprise to me I figured it was slipping on the front but according to josh its more likely to slip on the rear, and wen on to say that if it would have slipped the front I would probably be replacing a case which kinda makes sense, and he did pay 1000's of dollars to go to MMI so I trust him on things like this. The rear had a few tips of the teeth just barely rounded off, not to bad but obvious that it was from slipping. That sound it made was just awful, I've never herd anything like it, well i take that back when my buddy jumped his early 90s polaris it landed WOT and destroyed the rearend and that sounded very similar so I was quite relieved that nothing came of it. This is the 3rd connecting link I've put in this damn chain, 1st one was when I ordered it they sent it too long and I didn't think to check before putting it on, and obviously I didn't shorten it enough when I did. Moral of that story CHECK YOUR DAMN CHAIN LENGTH BEFORE RIVETING!!!

While there I mentioned the coolant thing and he looked at it and we couldn't see anything, so I forced some water in and we saw a few "drops" and I guess I was just over reacting and being paranoid. When I saw drops they were like pin point size and appeared to be just som particulate that had gummed up. But I still will be keeping a close eye on it. With all the coolant issues I've had I just assumed the worst I guess. But the exhaust don't smell any different, oil still looks good, no other signs of anything fouled up. I still would like to do a comp/leak down test for peace of mind though.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for the update.

I mentioned the front sprocket as I didn't know the condition of your sprockets and the front one has less contact area than the rear sprocket.

At the shop I buy tires, etc from, I've seen front sprockets 3/4 worn down to almost nothing, unbelievable(that's on go fast bikes too)....Cords sticking out on tires, etc....

And yes on the chain lenth. The stocker is 118 links. My DID replacment came as 120. I cut off the old one, placed them side by side on the floor and found exactly which link to grind...

Please keep us posted on the engine status... Hopefully its good...

 

[ChevyFazer]

I actually assumed the front sprocket as well for the same reasons so I was pretty surprised to find it was the rear. And yeah hope for the best but expect the worst lol