no threads for Drive Sprocket Retaining Nut

[Norbert]

Worth a shot, my bike is registered as a 2006 model. Where in fact it was actually a late 2005 bike. I contacted the dealer and had the TPS and sprocket sorted.
good luck mate. Thats one expensive thing to rectify.

Question to all, If this bike was brought from a dealer under sale of goods act. Would the owner have any legal rights?

Nelly

Jeez. I have a 2006 model bike. Should I be worried?

 

[Daryldaddy]

Something to consider, my 07 DOES NOT have the splined plate that folds over the nut... The nut is self locking. The parts fisch also doesn't show the plate but an up dated nut #....

Wow...don't need this crap to happen down the road.... good point you mentioned, I'll be checking mine when i do the 15 t. change out...seems like a good area to put a little stud and bearing mount adhesive ( by loctite ) even if it's a nyloc type retaining nut... by the way a crimped crown type nut holds far better than a nyloc...and with nyloc they lose there grip the second time round... Daryl

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Wow...don't need this crap to happen down the road.... good point you mentioned, I'll be checking mine when i do the 15 t. change out...seems like a good area to put a little stud and bearing mount adhesive ( by loctite ) even if it's a nyloc type retaining nut... by the way a crimped crown type nut holds far better than a nyloc...and with nyloc they lose there grip the second time round... Daryl

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As my 07 uses a different nut (self locking) that seems to be the fix from Yamaha (vs the older units)

I wonder that at initial assembly at the factory, the tabs were't folded over fully. Once tightened down and folded over that nut shouldn't have gone anywhere (but did)...

If I had mine apart, I'd probably use the NEW self locking nut (should be the same threads), clean the shaft real well and add red loctite just to make sure...

I suppose you could use the retaing plate as well...


As a side note, its easy enough to check, pull the sprocket cover and check the tabs/nut...


Scott

 

[trentg]

Could always drill and safety wire the nut too if you didn't want to weld. That would have been my solution had I read this before getting stranded.

 

[Nelly]

I will check later today. 3.00am at the moment lol. What do I cross reference that number with? When I took my bike down. The chap went outside and got the info, I stayed in the shop.↲↲Nelly

Hi Nelly,
I am still not sure what I am cross referencing this number by my frame number is a few digits shorter than the numbers posted on the bulletin. The number under my seat is 5vx050.


Nelly

Weird I have not quoted myself before lol.

 

[Nelly]

[

Is your bike in the affected bike list?
Is this list right or should it be updated?

Yes mate,
my bike was in the re-call batch.
RJ posted a good clarification in another thread.

They use some 'short hand' on this. There's a 5 digit alphanumeric as the first group, then the tech bulletin just lists the last 7 digits of the serial number:

(JYA)RJ08E(XX)(A)000005 through -0005165 and
(JYA)RJ08Y(XX)0000003 through -0000810

The stuff in parentheses is in my VIN, but is not listed on the service bulletin. In my case, the first digit of the second number group was an 'A' rather than a zero. Yet they still honored the request to have it replaced for free. (I'm guessing the way the number reads out, I'm within about 140 of the end of the first group.

Again, I found out about this here, and found the Service bulletin as a document right here.

Nelly

 

[Daryldaddy]

Could always drill and safety wire the nut too if you didn't want to weld. That would have been my solution had I read this before getting stranded.

drilling that atlas material ( the output shaft ) would be at the least a challange... I'am going to cut a circle hole , say 1 1/2" in the center of the primary sprocket cover , that way I can keep an eye on it !

 

[RJ2112]

________________________________________________________________

As my 07 uses a different nut (self locking) that seems to be the fix from Yamaha (vs the older units)

I wonder that at initial assembly at the factory, the tabs were't folded over fully. Once tightened down and folded over that nut shouldn't have gone anywhere (but did)...

If I had mine apart, I'd probably use the NEW self locking nut (should be the same threads), clean the shaft real well and add red loctite just to make sure...

I suppose you could use the retaing plate as well...


As a side note, its easy enough to check, pull the sprocket cover and check the tabs/nut...


Scott

Scott....

Is it possible with the output shafts that have beaten the retaining nut threads off the shaft, to tap them to the next size smaller nut/thread? I haven't seen one yet to make an educated guess....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott....

Is it possible with the output shafts that have beaten the retaining nut threads off the shaft, to tap them to the next size smaller nut/thread? I haven't seen one yet to make an educated guess....

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Those shafts are hardened and would be extremly difficult to cut new new threads.

If I had a stripped shaft (and didn't have the 2k to tear it down) I like the idea of welding it. The only thing with that is that there's no torque pressure on the sprocket (as when you tighten down to spec's- 61ft lbs).

I think I would try forcing down a nut onto the stripped shaft and get some pressure on the sprocket (to keep it from moving around on the splines and eventually having the splines fail), then weld that nut to the shaft.. A 110 MIG machine set on high would take care of things. A friend slowly rotating the rear wheel (with the chain on) while welding would rotate the shaft for a clean weld. I'd disconnect the battery and ECM and anything else sensative before welding...

In any case, if welding is going to occur I'd start with a new steel sprocket (with no rubber/inserts to melt with the intense heat) and cool each weld quickly to keep from melting the output shaft seal....

Note: My KLR 250 sprocket fits loose on the output shaft with a plate that rotates slightly and bolts to the sprocket holding the sprocket on. Works fine with low HP (25?), but would most likely fail with the higher HP put out by a 600 cc engine.

Scott

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

drilling that atlas material ( the output shaft ) would be at the least a challange... I'am going to cut a circle hole , say 1 1/2" in the center of the primary sprocket cover , that way I can keep an eye on it !

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I suspect the only way to safety wire it would be to drill the nut (not the shaft) and the sprocket paying attention to how much room there is behind the sprocket (for safety wire clearance).

I'd mark the sprocket and nut and shaft first so you have an idea about where everything's going to line up for the wire...

 

[Ricko]

Wow, what did the rest of the bike look like? great improvisation skills.. same thing happened to me, I looked around awhile on the side of the freeway, found a piece of a hack saw blade and wire hanger. I cut two notches on the drive post and bent the wire hanger in to a triangle, and forced it into the notch keeping the sprocket on. Just like MacGyver.. Great job.;