PhotoAl
Junior Member
Last weekend I installed the new chain and sprockets from Sprocket Center.
A little history: Wanted a SuperSprox rear sprocket because is looked nice and was lighter than stock. Started out by looking for the individual parts and was going to go with a stock front, stock size rear SuperSprox and gold RK chain but had some difficulty finding a SuperSprox sprocket so put the project on hold for a while. A couple of weeks ago ran across Sprocket Center and they had a kit with a gold DID x-ring chain, front sprocket and rear SuperSprox sprocket at a great price. Ordered the kit with a 15T front sprocket as I already had a new Yamaha front sprocket (16T).
First step was to remove the front sprocket. Disconnect the shift linkage and remove the cover over the sprocket.
View attachment 39899
On the 2004 thru 2006 models the sprocket nut is locked with a flat washer which is bent up against the side of the nut in two places. Flatten the washer using a large screwdriver and hammer or whatever else is handy.
View attachment 39900
Small taps work best to keep from damaging anything. Take particular care with the washer as you will want it in pristine condition as you gently drop it into the trash.
I bought a new washer from the stealership for a couple of bucks - cheap insurance. I read all of the stories about how difficult it was to remove the nut so went to Harbor Freight and invested in an electric impact tool - it is rated at 230ft-lbs of torque. Put the bike in gear and it came off after a few seconds and the nut was not damaged.
Have both 15T and 16T sprockets but decided to go with the 16T for the initial installation. This photo gives an idea of the relative size.
View attachment 39903
Next, break the stock chain by removing a pin. I used a Stockton chain took set from Cycle Gear on sale for $39.95 a while back. Didn't take any photos but use the largest pin in the set 3.8mm. Took some effort but not real difficult. After breaking the chain carefully slide it off.
Remove the rear wheel and unbolt the rear sprocket nuts. Clean the nuts and washers so they will look good with the new sprocket. Note the SuperSprox sprocket is thicker than the stock sprocket but the studs are long enough the nuts are fully engaged. Put the new sprocket in place and tighten the nuts. IMPORTANT NOTE!!!
IMPORTANT: The manual says to torque the nuts to 72 ft-lbs but that seemed WAY high so did some investigation on the web. Other have seen the same and most agree that 26 to 28 is max torque for those nuts. I used thread locker and torqued to 26 ft-lbs.
Compared the length of the new and old chain - not much difference in length but that is without any tension on the chains.
View attachment 39904
Loosen the chain tensioners and install the rear wheel. Thread the chain onto the sprockets - I started in the rear and pushed it up to the front sprocket.
View attachment 39905View attachment 39906
Now it is time to install the master link. I used a couple of zip tys to pull the ends of the chain together so I could put the master link in place - worked very well and though I could have done it without this step it made it much easier. Put lube on the master link pins and then put the x-rings in place, slide the pins thru the holes, add lube and put the other two x-rings in place and then put the sideplate in place and press on using the chain tool.
View attachment 39907
I was surprised at the amount of force it tool to press the sideplate into place. I checked the width of the other links and pressed the sideplate until the master link was the same width as the other links - not too wide or there will be too much slop and not to narrow or the x-rings will be compressed too much.
To rivet the master link pins use the rivet tool. The objective is to flair the pin enough but not so much it is cracked which could lead to failure which would make for a bad day in the future. I used the specs from the DID web site which called for 0.217" to 0.228" for the 530VM chain which was the closest to the chain I have. Checked the diameter with a digital caliper it was expanded to 0.220" to 0.224"
View attachment 39909 View attachment 39908
Adjust the chain tension and torque the rear axel. With an assistant pressing on the rear brake, torque the front sprocket nut to 65 ft-lbs and lock in place with the locking washer by bending two tabs flat against the nut. Replace the sprocket cover and connect the shifter.
View attachment 39910
Update: Shifts are much smoother with the new chain particularly the 1-2 shift which is always tough. Maybe due to new chain which is not stretched. The new chain is identical to the old except for the color.
A little history: Wanted a SuperSprox rear sprocket because is looked nice and was lighter than stock. Started out by looking for the individual parts and was going to go with a stock front, stock size rear SuperSprox and gold RK chain but had some difficulty finding a SuperSprox sprocket so put the project on hold for a while. A couple of weeks ago ran across Sprocket Center and they had a kit with a gold DID x-ring chain, front sprocket and rear SuperSprox sprocket at a great price. Ordered the kit with a 15T front sprocket as I already had a new Yamaha front sprocket (16T).
First step was to remove the front sprocket. Disconnect the shift linkage and remove the cover over the sprocket.
View attachment 39899
On the 2004 thru 2006 models the sprocket nut is locked with a flat washer which is bent up against the side of the nut in two places. Flatten the washer using a large screwdriver and hammer or whatever else is handy.
View attachment 39900
Small taps work best to keep from damaging anything. Take particular care with the washer as you will want it in pristine condition as you gently drop it into the trash.
I bought a new washer from the stealership for a couple of bucks - cheap insurance. I read all of the stories about how difficult it was to remove the nut so went to Harbor Freight and invested in an electric impact tool - it is rated at 230ft-lbs of torque. Put the bike in gear and it came off after a few seconds and the nut was not damaged.Have both 15T and 16T sprockets but decided to go with the 16T for the initial installation. This photo gives an idea of the relative size.
View attachment 39903
Next, break the stock chain by removing a pin. I used a Stockton chain took set from Cycle Gear on sale for $39.95 a while back. Didn't take any photos but use the largest pin in the set 3.8mm. Took some effort but not real difficult. After breaking the chain carefully slide it off.
Remove the rear wheel and unbolt the rear sprocket nuts. Clean the nuts and washers so they will look good with the new sprocket. Note the SuperSprox sprocket is thicker than the stock sprocket but the studs are long enough the nuts are fully engaged. Put the new sprocket in place and tighten the nuts. IMPORTANT NOTE!!!
IMPORTANT: The manual says to torque the nuts to 72 ft-lbs but that seemed WAY high so did some investigation on the web. Other have seen the same and most agree that 26 to 28 is max torque for those nuts. I used thread locker and torqued to 26 ft-lbs.
Compared the length of the new and old chain - not much difference in length but that is without any tension on the chains.
View attachment 39904
Loosen the chain tensioners and install the rear wheel. Thread the chain onto the sprockets - I started in the rear and pushed it up to the front sprocket.
View attachment 39905View attachment 39906
Now it is time to install the master link. I used a couple of zip tys to pull the ends of the chain together so I could put the master link in place - worked very well and though I could have done it without this step it made it much easier. Put lube on the master link pins and then put the x-rings in place, slide the pins thru the holes, add lube and put the other two x-rings in place and then put the sideplate in place and press on using the chain tool.
View attachment 39907
I was surprised at the amount of force it tool to press the sideplate into place. I checked the width of the other links and pressed the sideplate until the master link was the same width as the other links - not too wide or there will be too much slop and not to narrow or the x-rings will be compressed too much.
To rivet the master link pins use the rivet tool. The objective is to flair the pin enough but not so much it is cracked which could lead to failure which would make for a bad day in the future. I used the specs from the DID web site which called for 0.217" to 0.228" for the 530VM chain which was the closest to the chain I have. Checked the diameter with a digital caliper it was expanded to 0.220" to 0.224"
View attachment 39909 View attachment 39908
Adjust the chain tension and torque the rear axel. With an assistant pressing on the rear brake, torque the front sprocket nut to 65 ft-lbs and lock in place with the locking washer by bending two tabs flat against the nut. Replace the sprocket cover and connect the shifter.
View attachment 39910
Update: Shifts are much smoother with the new chain particularly the 1-2 shift which is always tough. Maybe due to new chain which is not stretched. The new chain is identical to the old except for the color.
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