New Clutch Cable Not Retracting

[weehe]

I have spent way too long searching for an answer that is probably really simple. My clutch cable was getting pretty hard to pull and wouldn't fully retract/engage every time so I got a new cable and spring for the slave lever. Put everything on and now pulling the clutch lever in it feels like there is no resistance, which feels nice but now it wont retract and engage the clutch unless I push the lever back. Am I supposed to preload the spring or how do I get the slave lever/cable to retract?

Ok well I guess I have a bigger problem as I can't get the clutch to disengage at all. I have the middle cable adjuster all the way tightened and the handle adjuster all the way tightened and it still doesn't seem like I have enough slack. I got the cable from Partzilla.com and it came in an OEM bag, is this a crap cable or am I just missing something here.

 

[agf]

I might be wrong but it sounds like you took the clutch lsave lever off to put on a new return spring. Now if you did it might be that you have the lever one spline out and the spring isnt actually doing anything to help with the return action.
I'm not at my bike at the moment but I think I remeber that there should be a centre punch mark on the clutch shaft and a corresponding one on the lever that slips onto the top of the shaft.
Only thing I can think off except if the cable is binding due to tight a curve or maybe pinched when resetting the tank down
hope maybe this helps
cheers

 

[weehe]

I will have to take a look for the marks. However, I have the most slack available on the cable and I am not able to disengage the clutch with the slave lever as far out as possible. It seems that the cable might not be long enough making it that I can't put the slave lever out far enough to fully disengage the clutch. But this is an oem clutch cable.

The only mark in the area is an arrow on the crank case cover. Nothing on the slave lever or spline. It looks like the cable physically can't pull the slave lever far enough to disengage the clutch. Fully pulling the clutch lever, to the grip, only moved the slave lever half way to fully disengaging the clutch. This doesn't make any sense to me, how can changing a cable, change how far the cable pulls the slave lever?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Deleted by author.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Deleted by author.

 

[agf]

In case there is some anomaly with the alignment of your main clutch shaft, you can follow these basic install instructions ( and thanks to Killernoodle for the bulk of this text)
Basically, installing the lever goes like this:

1. Screw the handlebar clutch adjustment (clockwise) and the mid-cable adjustment all the way in.
2. Pull the cable at the motor as far out as it will go to pull the lever at the handlebar all the way out ( need to remove all slack in the cable, just pull it taut)
3. Install the clutch slave lever onto the cable(but not onto the splined shaft).
4. Put the clutch slave return spring in place.
5. Rotate the clutch input splined shaft clockwise until it stops to take the slack out of it.
6. Position the new clutch slave lever over the input splined shaft and rotate it as hard counter-clockwise as you can before you slide it on the input splined shaft (this is to take all of the slack out of the cable).
7. When the lever is on the input splined shaft, put the clutch slave return spring on the clutch slave lever.
8. Tap the clutch slave lever all the way down and reinstall the factory washer and circlip on the splined input shaft.
9. Adjust the master lever at the handlebar until the desired engagement zone is reached.

 

[weehe]

Ok turns out I had the markers lined up. So looks like I have one thing right. Now when I pull the clutch lever, there is no slack, it pulls to the grip and only disengaged the clutch halfway. Il see if I can tighten the cable, but I don't think its possible.

 

[Motogiro]

On the center adjustment of the cable. Is it turned all the way in? If so adjust the center adjustment so that it's wider, more separated. This will expand the overall sleeve length so that there is less slack adjustment on the cable. In essence it will take end play out of the cable.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Deleted by author.

 

[weehe]

Ok I took a look this morning before work. The mark on the slave lever is right above the mark on the case. With the cable attached to the slave lever, if I losen the adjuster by the clutch lever, there is no slack as it will pull the slave lever. I feel I may have just had the ah-ha moment though. Before putting the slave lever on, am I supposed to spin the shaft as far clockwise as it can go? If that is the case then I just feel retarded as I have been spinning it as far counterclockwise as it can go before putting the slave lever on.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Deleted by author..

 

[weehe]

All fixed, I feel like a moron lol. Thanks for the help guys. Now just need to do the fork seals.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Deleted by author.

 

[weehe]

Yeah, there is some play in the shaft so turning it counterclockwise meant the lever was only pulling the play in the shaft. Turned the shaft clockwise before putting the slave lever on fixed that. So simple, not sure how I didn't realize it before lol.

 

[seansi]

I have spent way too long searching for an answer that is probably really simple. My clutch cable was getting pretty hard to pull and wouldn't fully retract/engage every time so I got a new cable and spring for the slave lever. Put everything on and now pulling the clutch lever in it feels like there is no resistance, which feels nice but now it wont retract and engage the clutch unless I push the lever back. Am I supposed to preload the spring or how do I get the slave lever/cable to retract?

Ok well I guess I have a bigger problem as I can't get the clutch to disengage at all. I have the middle cable adjuster all the way tightened and the handle adjuster all the way tightened and it still doesn't seem like I have enough slack. I got the cable from Partzilla.com and it came in an OEM bag, is this a crap cable or am I just missing something here.

I need to replace the spring that returns the lever. Do you happen what part number or name to search for. Obviously clutch spring doesn't work

 

[FinalImpact]

2005 FZ6 - FZS6T Yamaha Motorcycle CLUTCH Diagram and Parts

Item 28 SPRING, TORSION, 90508-18016-00, $2.18

Did yours break? If not, lube the cable and adjust per owners manual.