Never Ending Bearing Problems

[weehe]

I clearly can't catch a break with my rear wheel. All of this started after taking my wheel off to have the tire replaced. I rode for ~1000 miles problem free before removing the wheel. In a previous thread I figured out the odd crunching sound I heard, after putting the wheel back on, was from a bad roller bearing. I recently replaced BOTH roller bearings even though the right side (disk side) seemed fine. I lubed everything back up and put it back together. I then rode for ~200 miles problem free. Yesterday the clunking/crunching started again, worse than before. I took the wheel off and found my new, right side roller bearing is toast. The inner race can move in and out by about half a centimeter and the red seal is partly peeled back.

I am at a lose for what I could have done wrong. The bearings went in fine and I torqued the axle nut to 87 ft/lb like the manual says. I have some concerns about the spacer in the wheel. Is it the only spacer? (the manual only shows the one long one) I ask because it seems like it is lose and moving around. It can slide past the needle bearing and bounce off both roller bearings. I think this is how the roller bearing was damaged, the spacer was constantly hitting it.

I took a bunch of pictures in a hope someone will see something obviously wrong. Let me know if you have any ideas.


Left side, looking into wheel and needle bearing. Should the spacer be that loose?


Inside of sprocket roller bearing


Outside of sprocket roller bearing, looks a little damaged and has some binding when spun on my fingers but has no play


Right side roller bearing


right side roller bearing, shows damage a little better


Right side spacer, is flush or inside hub. Can move since there is play in the bearing


Left side spacer, looks almost too far out but does not move/have play

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As you know its pretty basic how it assembles...

Question, for the aluminum rear brake hanger, it has a tab that slides in with a notch in the swingarm. Is that/did that tab go into that notch upon assembly?

If not, tightening the swingarm down will cause everything to Kock(mis-spelling on purpose) eventually causing failure...

I'm assuming all bearings went in untill fully seated....

 

[FinalImpact]

Where is the inner race for "needle bearing" left side? Its what the spacer tube pushes on.

Is the cerclip still in wheel on the rightside?

Its on the right here...

DO YOU HAVE ITEM #7??

OLD thread --> http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/55052-help-removing-rear-wheel-bearing.html

 

[weehe]

As you know its pretty basic how it assembles...

Question, for the aluminum rear brake hanger, it has a tab that slides in with a notch in the swingarm. Is that/did that tab go into that notch upon assembly?

If not, tightening the swingarm down will cause everything to Kock(mis-spelling on purpose) eventually causing failure...

I'm assuming all bearings went in untill fully seated....

Yeah the brake carrier was installed properly and both bearings fully seated. I think impact got it.

 

[weehe]

Where is the inner race for "needle bearing" left side? Its what the spacer tube pushes on.

Is the cerclip still in wheel on the rightside?

Its on the right here...

DO YOU HAVE ITEM #7??

OLD thread --> http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/55052-help-removing-rear-wheel-bearing.html

Yes! Finally! I do not have that. It must have fallen out at the shop that put the tire on as I didnt take it out before giving it to them. Looks like I will be ordering new bearings again lol.

 

[FinalImpact]

At a minimum - looks like you need # 2,3,4,7 - As you can see the sprocket bearing only rotates partially and if its firm and has no glitches it should be OK. Even if the spacer #6 is torn up on the outside, its the ends and total length that matter. If its OVERALL length is compromised, replace IT!


But ya, you be missing parts. Did you buy it that way?

 

[weehe]

At a minimum - looks like you need # 2,3,4,7 - As you can see the sprocket bearing only rotates partially and if its firm and has no glitches it should be OK. Even if the spacer #6 is torn up on the outside, its the ends and total length that matter. If its OVERALL length is compromised, replace IT!


But ya, you be missing parts. Did you buy it that way?

Im sure all the parts were there when I bought it. When I gave the shop my wheel I didn't realize the sprocket just comes off, so when I gave it to them it was on. When I picked it up the sprocket was off. Im guessing that is when it was lost. Do you know what the length should be? I have a nice caliper I can use to mesure. Do you think the needle bearing needs to be replaced? When spinning it with my finger there is no binding and nothing has really touched it. I will be getting #2,3,7,13,14 for sure, but not sure if #4,6 will be needed.

 

[FinalImpact]

Im sure all the parts were there when I bought it. When I gave the shop my wheel I didn't realize the sprocket just comes off, so when I gave it to them it was on. When I picked it up the sprocket was off. Im guessing that is when it was lost. Do you know what the length should be? I have a nice caliper I can use to mesure. Do you think the needle bearing needs to be replaced? When spinning it with my finger there is no binding and nothing has really touched it. I will be getting #2,3,7,13,14 for sure, but not sure if #4,6 will be needed.

Because its not a complete bearing you can't tell its condition by feeling it with fingers (visual inspection only). I'd replace the needle. Its taking the weight of the bike and rider. Its also hard to clean completely. Any debris in it, could lead to its failure.
No, i don't know the length of spacer. If 90% is intact length wise, MEANING - You can SEE AND FEEL the ORIGINAL SPACER LENGTH, other than knocking burs off, it should be fine. Are the ends torn up?

As for the sprocket / hub carrier, its carrying the chains load. Not the bikes load. I would think it would be fine but replacement is best.

NOTE: None wearing parts like that spacer may take longer to get. The bearings are wearing items and often times are stocked. So that spacer should you order it, could take some time to get in; you might want to ask if its going to hold you up.

Good luck!

 

[weehe]

Because its not a complete bearing you can't tell its condition by feeling it with fingers (visual inspection only). I'd replace the needle. Its taking the weight of the bike and rider. Its also hard to clean completely. Any debris in it, could lead to its failure.
No, i don't know the length of spacer. If 90% is intact length wise, MEANING - You can SEE AND FEEL the ORIGINAL SPACER LENGTH, other than knocking burs off, it should be fine. Are the ends torn up?

As for the sprocket / hub carrier, its carrying the chains load. Not the bikes load. I would think it would be fine but replacement is best.

NOTE: None wearing parts like that spacer may take longer to get. The bearings are wearing items and often times are stocked. So that spacer should you order it, could take some time to get in; you might want to ask if its going to hold you up.

Good luck!

Thanks a lot. The spacer looks perfectly fine actually, I wasn't sure how exact it had to be. So I'll keep that. I'll order the needle bearing too just to be safe then.