Naked converted FZ6, how could I go about getting low and high beam functionality?

[Gary in NJ]

Option 2 is stated incorrectly. Re-read post #33 above. There are three wires for an H4 connection; lo, hi and ground. Like I said, you are over thinking this.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

Option 2 is stated incorrectly. Re-read post #33 above. There are three wires for an H4 connection; lo, hi and ground. Like I said, you are over thinking this.

I would have three wires. I'm currently using the high beam connector from an USA FZ6 setup. So the black/yellow and neutral which is what I ran for a year on the single H4 and used the high beam switch on for the light to be on. With the switch off the light was off. I was saying I would add the black/green from the low beam left side connector to have the 3 in one connector. Isn't that what you suggested I do? And I would just have filaments on when using high beam.

Forget that connector picture all together. I am just talking about the headlight connectors. I was thinking I could take the black/green and add it to the black/yellow and neutral and have all 3 and a switchable setup.

 

[Motogiro]

The plug in your last picture shows a black with yellow tracer wire. Next to it is a black wire.
1. Turn the key on. Do not start the engine.
2. Make sure the hi beam switch is in the off position.
3. Test for voltage on the black wire.
4. Is there voltage on the black wire? If yes this is not the correct wire and the factory color code in the FSM is incorrect. If no voltage start the engine.
5. Is there voltage now present? If yes turn on the hi beam. Does the voltage now disappear from the black wire? If yes this is the wire that you can use to supply voltage to your low beam.
6. Take the supply wire to the low beam at the H4 lamp and connect it to that black wire if it proves out to be the lo beam switched supply.

I have found incorrect details in FSM's before but if you follow these simple tests and they prove true you will have a path to your modification.
If you tr4y to run both your filaments in the H4 lamp to can not only cause premature lamp failure but also amhe other components including the plastic retainer to the lamp assembly.

For reference I am using the 2006 Yamaha service literature for color coding and schematics.

 

[Gary in NJ]

C-FZ6, Do you not have the mating connector for the connector shown in your photo?

 

[CanadaFZ6]

I wish I could do the tests outlined by Moto but the bike is too torn apart at the moment so I can access that connector, its behind the battery box so its gone and the tank is off as well so running is out of the question for now.

I am looking back for now at some previous discussion and also the shoop thread that was linked earlier. Here is what the consensus was before with help from his pictures. Note it is the third wire on the bottom row that does not have a terminal fitted on the male end of the plug which is the direction we were going to fix originally. Looking at his pictures and mine, I am now realizing we don't even have the same coloured wires. I believe shoop is American? And as for as I knew North America had one model. While I am in Canada I figured it would be the same as there is no Canadian model wiring diagram I can see anywhere.... but I am not seeing a colour match between our connectors.




I also wish I could post a pic of the Haynes wiring diagram as its coloured and would be a big help to diagnose this.

Attached are also pictures of the male end of the connector, the female end is the one that the wires coming from the handlebar switch are attached to. The male end of the connector is the one that eventually goes to the headlight/blinkers etc.

 

[Motogiro]

PM me your email and I can send you my Yamaha FSM.
The light green wire (there is a dark green wire) is likely the switched wire although my color coded schematic shows a black wire as the switched low beam wire when it leaves the hi/lo beam switch. This may be the result of the black wire changing to green somewhere in the harness that is not documented. The black wire (at the harness plug) may be the headlight circuit ground.

Just substitute the light green wire as the test wire on the plug instead of the black wire. the correct one will pass the logic in the test. If I remember correctly it was the light green wire but the schematic color code may be different and testing is the way to make sure.
Test it when you get it reassembled. I like using a 12 volt test light which is probably my most used tool for trouble shooting common automotive/motorcycle issues.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

It's not the green wire. The low-beam wire is a black wire with a green stripe and the high-beam is a black wire with a yellow stripe. I can see the high-beam wire in that connector, but not the low-beam. It may just be blocked from view.

In any event there's no need to de-pin the connector, simply splice (cut) the wire as needed from the output side of the connector.

I have looked at the wiring diagram more and that black yellow you are seeing is actually one wire of the clutch switch. The other one of the clutch switch is a red black.

The high beam wire off the connector in above pic is a solid yellow before and after the connector, it doesn’t become the black/yellow to the high beam until the last connection up the path a bit. A bit confusing but they used black yellow wire for a couple different things. The other wire coming from the dimmer switch is the blue/black. I wish I could post a picture of the diagram and it would make sense.

With everyone’s help I believe I have figured out which wire I need to cut from the harness and extend to the bulb. Just need to get it back together to confirm.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Here is an extract from the FSM. Item 61 is the low beam and 62 is the high beam.

 

[Motogiro]

Here is an extract from the FSM. Item 61 is the low beam and 62 is the high beam.

That is correct .... but the mod we want is to use the lo beam filament in the that lamp marked #62 which only uses the hi beam in the the US version. To do that we need to shut off the low beam when the hi beam is active in the H4 lamp. The lamp marked #61 is strictly a low beam with no other filament (H7). It does not need to shut off during hi beam.
If you want run the lo beam (unused) in the #62 on a stock 2 eyed FZ6 US model you have to buss a lo beam source to that unused filament that will shut off when the hi beam filament is active. Although the hi/lo beam switch will work to do this it is not wired for the low beam operation because they used 2 separate lamps for lo and hi beam. If you want a single headlamp that is a 55/65 H4 lamp it has to also be wired so that the lo beam shuts off during hi beam to prevent H4 overheating.

The hi beam is black with a yellow tracer and the lo beam is black with a green tracer at the headlamp harness. The 2006 FSM for the US bike does not document the low beam wire except it shows a black line (Probably not a black wire) that terminates right at the hi/lo beam switch.
I believe this is where the confusion comes in. I believe the light green wire on that previous posted plug image is the undocumented lo beam wire that is fed from the hi/lo beam switch.
They didn't use that switched low beam on the 2 eyed US model but had an added wire to run the H4 lamp on naked non US models.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

That is correct .... but the mod we want is to use the lo beam filament in the that lamp marked #62 which only uses the hi beam in the the US version. To do that we need to shut off the low beam when the hi beam is active in the H4 lamp. The lamp marked #61 is strictly a low beam with no other filament (H7). It does not need to shut off during hi beam.
If you want run the lo beam (unused) in the #62 on a stock 2 eyed FZ6 US model you have to buss a lo beam source to that unused filament that will shut off when the hi beam filament is active. Although the hi/lo beam switch will work to do this it is not wired for the low beam operation because they used 2 separate lamps for lo and hi beam. If you want a single headlamp that is a 55/65 H4 lamp it has to also be wired so that the lo beam shuts off during hi beam to prevent H4 overheating.

The hi beam is black with a yellow tracer and the lo beam is black with a green tracer at the headlamp harness. The 2006 FSM for the US bike does not document the low beam wire except it shows a black line (Probably not a black wire) that terminates right at the hi/lo beam switch.
I believe this is where the confusion comes in. I believe the light green wire on that previous posted plug image is the undocumented lo beam wire that is fed from the hi/lo beam switch.
They didn't use that switched low beam on the 2 eyed US model but had an added wire to run the H4 lamp on naked non US models.

I agree with you. After extensive analysis of the connector on the handlebar switch side, the lighter green wire is only one that isn't accounted for for a specific function. I have compared every other wire to the manual and they all seem to have a specific function. . The fact that this wire from the dimmer switch exists with no pin continuing into the harness side of the connector makes me think we have definitely determined the wire I need to extend to the headlight low beam terminal.

 

[MotoMadne55]

Hey all,

Complete noob reading through all of this forum for the last few hours. I am interested in upgrading from the stock halogen bulb on my 2008 FZ6N to a brighter LED bulb.

What is the easiest way to do this? What I have been reading above about seems to be more complicated than what I was expecting, have any of you had success with just a plug and play LED bulb that has lasted more than a few weeks? If so, what would you recommend, there are so many options online, its hard to know.

Thanks

 

[MotoMadne55]

If you use an LED H4 and wire the H4 as I noted above, you will have normal low-beam operation and high-beam operation will have both "elements" (hi & lo) on at the same time. The LED's I'm using tolerate this operation - and they put out more light. Don't over think this.

What LED bulbs are you using for yours?

 

[Sdaniels]

Hey all,

Complete noob reading through all of this forum for the last few hours. I am interested in upgrading from the stock halogen bulb on my 2008 FZ6N to a brighter LED bulb.

What is the easiest way to do this? What I have been reading above about seems to be more complicated than what I was expecting, have any of you had success with just a plug and play LED bulb that has lasted more than a few weeks? If so, what would you recommend, there are so many options online, its hard to know.

Thanks

Do you have the dual headlights or single with the H4 bulb? If single, I've used this LED bulb on my last 3 bikes without issues...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Z7RHYM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details. The only issue you'd need to be concerned about is if you have room for the additional few inches of the pigtail & the heat sink. Other than that, it's a plug & play deal.

 

[Sdaniels]

Prior to upgrading to LED's, I ran the Motogiro mod (Thx Cliff!), which jumpered the lo beam power over to the H4, allowing both headlamps to light. But you don't want the hi/lo on an incandescent lit at the same time, so Cliff's setup used a relay to de-energize the lo beam power to the H4 when the hi beam was energized.

https://ebay.us/owgDe5

Can someone give instruction on setting up a relay to kill power to low beam when high beam is on? I just helped my son install a single headlight & the plan was to use an LED bulb but it's too tight...won't fit. I told him to only use low beam for now but I'd really like to give him full functionality of both beams without burning out H4 bulbs.

 

[trepetti]

Can someone give instruction on setting up a relay to kill power to low beam when high beam is on? I just helped my son install a single headlight & the plan was to use an LED bulb but it's too tight...won't fit. I told him to only use low beam for now but I'd really like to give him full functionality of both beams without burning out H4 bulbs.

There are better ways to do this, but if you decide to use the relay, here is what you do.

You need either a SPST (single-pole, single throw), normally-closed 12v relay or a SPDT (single-pole double throw) 12v relay. The pins you will be using are:
85 - connect to ground
86 - tap into high-beam wire (black w/yellow tracer)
30 - 12v feed FROM FZ6's headlight relay (black w/green tracer)
87a - connected to low-beam pin on bulb (new wire)
87 - If you get a SPDT relay, there will be a pin 87. Ignore and do not connect anything

Here's how it works.
In a normally-closed relay, pins 30 and 87a are connected when the relay is NOT energized (there is no voltage on pin 86). So with the high beams off, power flows from pin 30 out to the low beam through 87a. When the high beams are turned on, pin 86 gets 12v and the relay opens, disconnecting pin 30 from 87a and thereby cutting power to the low beam.

 

[Sdaniels]

There are better ways to do this, but if you decide to use the relay, here is what you do.

You need either a SPST (single-pole, single throw), normally-closed 12v relay or a SPDT (single-pole double throw) 12v relay. The pins you will be using are:
85 - connect to ground
86 - tap into high-beam wire (black w/yellow tracer)
30 - 12v feed FROM FZ6's headlight relay (black w/green tracer)
87a - connected to low-beam pin on bulb (new wire)
87 - If you get a SPDT relay, there will be a pin 87. Ignore and do not connect anything

Here's how it works.
In a normally-closed relay, pins 30 and 87a are connected when the relay is NOT energized (there is no voltage on pin 86). So with the high beams off, power flows from pin 30 out to the low beam through 87a. When the high beams are turned on, pin 86 gets 12v and the relay opens, disconnecting pin 30 from 87a and thereby cutting power to the low beam.

What's a better way?

 

[trepetti]

What's a better way?

The US version of the FZ6 eliminated 1 wire from connector B on the schematic that went from the headlight switch to the un-used spot on the H4 headlight connector. Adding that wire will allow the handlebar light switch to toggle between high and low beam. The connector slot is vacant and I believe that it is an 'MT090' (see post #18 in this thread https://www.600riders.com/threads/st2-self-cancelling-indicators.59522/ ). All you need is a male pin for the connector, a flag connector to insert into the unused spot on the H4 connector and enough wire to go between the 2. This is the factory solution so no problems down the line with a hacked-up wiring harness.

This is a simple mod. I did this on my FZ6 years ago, so I could have dual low-beams.

There are lots of good sources for connectors on line. I use http://cycleterminal.com . Joe has been pretty helpful in identifying connectors and sourcing replacement pins etc.

EDIT: - Here is the original thread from the member I bought the wire from. He lays the whole procedure out, and with the resource to buy the connectors, you can skip the parts where he makes his own connectors https://www.600riders.com/threads/bd43s-07-headlight-mod-part-2.1666/

 

[Sdaniels]

The US version of the FZ6 eliminated 1 wire from connector B on the schematic that went from the headlight switch to the un-used spot on the H4 headlight connector. Adding that wire will allow the handlebar light switch to toggle between high and low beam. The connector slot is vacant and I believe that it is an 'MT090' (see post #18 in this thread https://www.600riders.com/threads/st2-self-cancelling-indicators.59522/ ). All you need is a male pin for the connector, a flag connector to insert into the unused spot on the H4 connector and enough wire to go between the 2. This is the factory solution so no problems down the line with a hacked-up wiring harness.

This is a simple mod. I did this on my FZ6 years ago, so I could have dual low-beams.

There are lots of good sources for connectors on line. I use http://cycleterminal.com . Joe has been pretty helpful in identifying connectors and sourcing replacement pins etc.

I'm not running dual lights...I need help with the single headlight. But, looking at the post I replied to, I misunderstood it...thought he had converted to a single H4 light & used a relay to keep the low beam off when he switched HB on. So it seems all I did was waste your time...I appreciate your quick response though.

 

[trepetti]

I'm not running dual lights...I need help with the single headlight. But, looking at the post I replied to, I misunderstood it...thought he had converted to a single H4 light & used a relay to keep the low beam off when he switched HB on. So it seems all I did was waste your time...I appreciate your quick response though.

Not a waste of time. If you do the mod, you just need to use the H4 bulb only. It will now toggle between high and low beam with the handlebar switch. If you think about it, by doing the mod I had exactly what you wanted, only I had an additional headlight that is low-beam only.

 

[Sdaniels]

Not a waste of time. If you do the mod, you just need to use the H4 bulb only. It will now toggle between high and low beam with the handlebar switch. If you think about it, by doing the mod I had exactly what you wanted, only I had an additional headlight that is low-beam only.

Oh, so this will still work then...cool. One more question & I promise to stop bothering you about this...on the 85 pin to ground, can I connect to the frame or does it have to bolt to the negative battery terminal? Also, is there another name for the headlight relay? I can't find that in the service manual. There's a dimmer relay...