Moved bike after sitting through snow this past month = not happy

[cmantis]

So I moved my bike after it being snowed in the past month. I just rolled it across the street for alternate side parking and at first I had to check if it was in gear than thought maybe a tire was flat. I guess from sitting so long and salt, snow dirt it is kinda tough to move. My friend suggested I ride it a bit slowly to get it going again but also recommended rebuilding the caliper. I have never done this before do I need to do both?

I found this link: http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/46886-overhauling-brake-calipers.html

However mine is an 05 with ~20k miles and the above thread talks about S2 models. Can anyone point me in the right direction to what parts if any are needed and or any more relevant threads or videos to get me going?

Thanks in advance.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So I moved my bike after it being snowed in the past month. I just rolled it across the street for alternate side parking and at first I had to check if it was in gear than thought maybe a tire was flat. I guess from sitting so long and salt, snow dirt it is kinda tough to move. My friend suggested I ride it a bit slowly to get it going again but also recommended rebuilding the caliper. I have never done this before do I need to do both?

I found this link: http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/46886-overhauling-brake-calipers.html

However mine is an 05 with ~20k miles and the above thread talks about S2 models. Can anyone point me in the right direction to what parts if any are needed and or any more relevant threads or videos to get me going?

Thanks in advance.

For a temp thing (and also to help later should you decide to re-build), if you spray brake cleaner between the pads and rotors may help(some scrubbing with a tooth brush helps too). Gentle putting a flat head screw driver between those and trying to push the pistons/pads back into the caliper slightly should help. They must be clean thou, you don't want to force crap in there..

Your bike has a caliper that slides on the mounting bolts to center itself. If not maintained with brake specific grease (or rusted up/seized inside) it'll also hamper movement of the caliper and stick with the caliper.

Again, gently pull those bolts, (work back and forth is siezed) one at a time and check for corrosion and clean if necessary. Get some brake specific grease and lube. It should move freely but NOT flop around.

If their original seals, the procedure is the same as the S2 removing the pistons / seals, you just have half as many to deal with. You just have the additional pins that the calipers float on (which the S2 does NOT have)

The rear caliper rarely locks up so I suspect you are referring to the fronts and have checked that on the center stand (with something lifting the nose from under the header-I use a sizzor jack)

After a re-build, you should upwards of 4 full rotations when simply spun by hand.

2005 Yamaha FZ6 (FZS6T) Front Brake Caliper | Babbitts Online

Good luck..

 

[cmantis]

Little update - my plan was to take it around the block after work, check and fill the tires and put it on center stand to see free spin...

Well the back tire is flat! No wonder it felt hard to move (was dark). What are the chances it was because it sat for a month or two and was really cold? Im hoping I didnt pick up a nail but was dark again by time I got home. My friend said its not uncommon for rear tires to have a slight leak.

 

[payneib]

Get it pumped up, put some soapy water on it and look for bubbles. If it's a nail or screw in the meaty part of the tyre, you can get it patched at a garage to let you finish off the tyre. If it's anything on the side wall, you'll need a new tyre. It could be the valve. Then you'll need to screw the core out and replace that, depending where it's leaking from.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A bit easier fix than the brakes...

Two months isn't very long for a good tire to go flat so as posted above, check closely for any leaks once pumped up.

Occassionally, if there's corrosion on the inner edge of the rim (where the tire mounts, that can leak. A little bit of soapy water there too will rule that in or out...


Just as an FYI, these "Steelman" combo plug / patches work great and will NOT spit out due to their design; Patch and Plug Combo Lead-Wire 1/8 Inch Kind of a PIA to install from the inside out but a more permanent repair.

 

[FinalImpact]

After-market 45° stems can leak too. Most have a rubber seal with an index or cut out which keeps the stem pointed at the desired angle for easy access. If they are disturbed from "that" position, they can leak too. Test the core first, stem to wheel and then the tire and lastly, the wheel to tire bead as suggested above.

Just don't use fix a flat as you'll be hated by the next tire changer!

Try riding on one like that for 4 miles! lol