More stubborn bolts- Front Axle Removal

[bpchura]

Hey all,

I was wondering if you folks knew any tricks to removing the front axle. I found a few sockets that lock together and lock in there pretty good, but I can torque it enough to remove it. So far I have busted two socket extensions with a long wrench trying to get this off. I have tried soaking in PB blaster and tired an impact driver. Also hit it with the torch although hesitant to really hit it because of paint and fork internals.

Is is threaded on both sides or just the opposite sides? Anyone have any tricks or ideas? I need to get this off because fork oil is way overdue for service.

Thanks

 

[tejkowskit]

You loosened the pinch bolt at the bottom of the fork, right? I use a 3\4" rod coupling nut to loosen the front axle. It fits perfectly, and then all you need is to grab that with a wrench.

 

[erburtt]

Its only threaded on the one side, traditional thread direction too. I broke a socket extension trying to get it out once, it was Snap-on though so they replaced it. Since I've bought a 19 mm allen key and used that, plenty of torque on something that big. I bought it at Princess Auto, (I think Harbor freight is similar in the states?) Like was mentioned make sure the pinch bolt is loosened, you shouldn't need to heat it to get it off unless it's severely corroded for some reason.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A 3/4" nut fits perfectly in the axle hole.

Although I use a 3/4" head bolt, washer/nut welded together, many spark plug sockets have a 3/4", 6 point head (where you would insert your extension), put that end in the axle and loosen her up. The axle is spec'ed at 52 ft lbs so it shouldn't be very tight...

As noted above, make sure the pinch bolt is loosened FIRST...

 

[bpchura]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I did forget to mention that I did have the pinch bolt loosened before. I just cant seem to get something to take the torque needed to break it look. I will see if I can find a 19mm allen as I imagine that being pretty tough to break...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Probably already in your tool box...

 

[trepetti]

Ditto to what Scott is showing. This is the only method I use and it is perfect. Only thing to watch for is that not all spark plug sockets allow an extension to be inserted from the inside. You'll know as soon as you give it a try. I had to buy a new one but overall it is a cheap and effective solution. I hate to buy single-purpose tools.

 

[bpchura]

That is pretty much the exact setup Ive been (attempting) to use.. So far Ive broken two extensions using a foot long breaker bar. I guess mine is just super torqued and/or corroded.

 

[Zealot]

That is pretty much the exact setup Ive been (attempting) to use.. So far Ive broken two extensions using a foot long breaker bar. I guess mine is just super torqued and/or corroded.

Assuming the teensy bolt on the front fork is loosened, get yourself a drive socket set. I got one on sale for like $20 at a local hardware store! I used my torque wrench on a high setting and it came off without a hitch.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Do you have access to a welder?

 

[bpchura]

Sadly I do not have access to a welder.

 

[FinalImpact]

Sounds a good time for a brass drift and hammer to shock the threads w/out damaging anything.
Also, trying to tighten it too. You want movement and lots of penatrating fluids if corrosion has bound the axle to the gork.

 

[MattR302]

Probably already in your tool box...

I do this too. You may need to grab the rubber insert with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove it, or push it out from the ratchet side with a screwdriver.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

There shouldn't be an issue using a heat gun (unless the forks are painted) on med heat warming the axle and lower fork.

The aluminum fork leg will dissapate heat pretty quickly so if you have a buddy heating and you leaning on your tool (with a pipe on the wrench for leverage.

A smack on the breaker bar, with load on it, should also help shock it loose...

Spray some PB Blaster as well with the heat

 

[greg]

FWIW the proper tool to untighten the front axle is a (motorcycle) spindle key, I can't remember if it's 19mm or 22, but they usually fit a few standard sizes. All the bolts on the FZ6 are in metric.

saves potentially damaging it, also I find completely undoing the pinch bolt helps

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A 3/4" OD, steel thread, coupler ((about 1.5" long nut) would work just as well and you could put a box wrench on the end for full torque as well..

 

[bpchura]

Thanks everyone for the advice. Are the threads on the axle on the opposite side of the bike as the nut? Just making sure so I know where to heat. I will get the heat gun out and let it soak in penetrating oil for awhile. Also, can we confirm the axle requires a 19mm key? I might go buy the proper tool if it makes it any easier at all.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks everyone for the advice. Are the threads on the axle on the opposite side of the bike as the nut? Just making sure so I know where to heat. I will get the heat gun out and let it soak in penetrating oil for awhile. Also, can we confirm the axle requires a 19mm key? I might go buy the proper tool if it makes it any easier at all.

Its 19mm or 3/4". The threads are on the other end of the axle, LEFT FORK LEG (as you sit on the bike). Make sure the pinch bolt is loose.

Do you access to a good, air powered 100PSI + hand air gun? Something strong enough to remove an automotive wheel lug nut?

 

[bpchura]

That was going to be my last resort. I do have a good compressor but thats one of the few tools I do not have. I think I am going to get one of those removal tools and if I cant get it off with that, go for the impact gun.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Are you in the US???