Metisse lowering kit

[NorCal FZ6]

Right on! I have a question. What's the difference between a Metisse lowering link and a Soupy's link? Other than ones in Germany, and ones in Chicago? And one is twice the price as the other. There both aluminum aren't they? There both the same drop aren't they? Quality? Craftsmanship? What's the deal?

 

[Susan]

I'd be interested in knowing whether there's a difference, too.

According to dh (who's been a mechanic since he was probably two years old), when it comes to parts, you usually get what you pay for. I showed him both parts, and he said suspension parts are important, your life depends on them, get the expensive one.

 

[NorCal FZ6]

I noticed these a few months back. Based on the pics the German manufacturers pics, the part looked well made. Better safe than sorry. Recently I found another manufacturer for these lowering links/blocks. Can't seem to find... Let us know how it works:thumbup:

 

[Susan]

I'm finally getting back on two wheels after winter.

Dh ended up putting my lowering link in for me. I wanted to and meant to, but some family stuff happened, and I lost some of my gumption. Anyway, I sat on Precious yesterday wearing my rubber boots (it's rainy and muddy here), and both heels reached the ground. Woo-hoo! That tiny little bit of lowering made just the right amount of difference.

I'm still riding the Nighthawk for now. We're not riding often enough yet to justify the pricier insurance. Maybe in May, if it ever stops raining.

Anyway, I'm so happy about the lowering link. Precious and I feel so much more like we belong together.

 

[Sinman]

Hello,
As a short guy, 5'6", I am all about lowering the bike! I did the Spencer seat shaving mod, rode it once since then. I think the seat is more comfortable, and kinda narrower at the top. But not really much lower. So, I'll check out the Metisse link and Soupy's (?) My bike has just over 2K miles on it, so maybe this mod would not be so hard to do.
Also, I have to give props to Killernoodle and his clutch mod. Before I installed that I thought I was an idiot. No, I just had a really tricky clutch.
Cheers,
Sinman

 

[LFZ6]

We just put the Soupy's lowering link on mine and lowered the front end to match. It lowered it 1 1/4 inch. I still can't flat-foot it but it's a huge improvement. It was a small pita.

 

[Wh0M3]

First I would like to say thank you to this thread it helped me out while I did my own swap (Soupy's Performance Lowering) Once I got the shock removed I was scratching my head with what to do next. I saw your post and I did the same thing (I happened to have those as well and didn't have the proper tools :spank

The next step is to disassemble the stock shock. The picture shows how I did it using two clamps. I do not recommend or condone this method. It is probably not the best way to compress the spring, but when I don't have the right tool for the job I improvise.

However I was unsuccessful at doing anything other than compressing the spring and trapping everything as well. (Unable to remove the shock) So I tried to use some straps to hold the spring compressed (still didn't work) So I was thinking about getting the tool for the job when I thought about re-visiting the strap idea.

This time I used a ratchet with a doubled up strap. I looped it around the back of the ratchet then through the spring. I was able to compress the spring and have it waiting for me to re-install.

 

[Wh0M3]

The Soupy Performance Lowering kit didn't come with instructions so when I tried to remove the stock strut eye I was again lost. Your post here helped me however I tried using a pipe wrench and I couldn't get it to grab.

The instructions that come with the lowering kit say to "Tighten the piston rod of the shock strut in the bench vise (use aluminium jaws in order not to damage the piston rod). Heat and unscrew the spring strut eye." Well, tightening the piston rod in the vise and heating it didn't work for me. No matter how hard I gripped the rod with the vise, it still turned when I went to loosen the stock strut eye. I did have to apply heat, but ended up using a pipe wrench on the rod. After, I used a light sandpaper to remove the light marks left on the rod by the pipe wrench. If you grip the rod at the end nearest the eye, there is little to no chance that this part of the rod will ever make it into the shock.

So I used a pair of vice grips along with the bench vice. A little heat and it came right off.

This picture is actually of me installing the Soup's eye but it's the same idea. I also had no damage which I was really worried about.

 

[Wh0M3]

Here are the end results of the install.

Thanks again for the thread and I hope I've been able to help someone else who may try this.

 

[stefanbob1]

The above posts are a great help! I started this last night. Got the collar out of the bottom post without too much trouble -- just loaded it up with WD40 and wiggled the shock until it slid out. I could not get the Autozone spring compressor to fit, so i will be attempting the strap method tonight.

I am installing the Soupys brand shock post. As others have said it is only just barely smaller than the stock one. Interested to see the results!

 

[stefanbob1]

The OP glossed over some details. Can anyone explain the steps between compressing the shock and unscrewing the post?

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