Lowering The Shifter

[Zealot]

Heya folks!

Recently went through the minor trouble of trying to lower my shifter. I used the two locknuts and wound the bar out, managing to get the shifter lower and make it a lot easier to reach than it used to be. The first adjustment I got it really low, but found I couldn't shift into first due to the lever hitting the kickstand bolt. Backed it off a bit with enough room to spare and it can shift perfectly fine now, which makes it easier on me.

That being said - there's the other bolt located up on the jagged... I don't know, grabber thing? I'm not quite seeing where I'd be able to get enough adjustment and make it low enough that I'm comfy, and it doesn't hit the bolt below.

Any sort of input on this would be appreciated. Even with my size 10 feet, it feels awkward trying to reach the shifter, let alone preload it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Which part #11?

2008 Yamaha FZ6 (FZS6XL) Shift Shaft | Babbitts Online

I too, lowered my shifter and found it interferring with hard parts and brought it up some (to clear).

If it is part #11, your still going to have the issue of the lever hitting the kickstand bolt. An option would be to find/buy and longer shifter lever/arm.

Another possibilty is to modify your shifter lever by cutting it, extending an inch or two (your preference). Re-weld it back together. You can "re-clock" the lever from the notched base and make it longer for your foot to fit underneath it as well..

 

[Zealot]

Which part #11?

2008 Yamaha FZ6 (FZS6XL) Shift Shaft | Babbitts Online

I too, lowered my shifter and found it interferring with hard parts and brought it up some (to clear).

That'd be it. Seems like maybe there's only a certain lowness it can go in that case?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That'd be it. Seems like maybe there's only a certain lowness it can go in that case?

Yepper.. Even if you disconected all the linakages, the lever will only go down so far (as you've found) before it hits and you can't shift.

Keeping the "base" of the shifter lever in its original position and extending/ modifying the lever would work...Your foot would fit undermeath it and you could weld it in the position you like. You'd still have the "rod" with the reverse threads to fine tune also.

Finding another, longer, similar lever would be even easier (if you could find one)..

 

[Zealot]

Yepper.. Even if you disconected all the linakages, the lever will only go down so far (as you've found) before it hits and you can't shift.

Keeping the "base" of the shifter lever in its original position and extending/ modifying the lever would work...Your foot would fit undermeath it and you could weld it in the position you like. You'd still have the "rod" with the reverse threads to fine tune also.

Finding another, longer, similar lever would be even easier (if you could find one)..

Good points. I'd thought there might be a way to weld something, or otherwise modify it. The easiest solution coming to mind in my case would be to rig something up around my riding boots which adds some extra material to the top of my toes so that I can press the shifter more readily. Really shifts smooth with a nice preload, and reaching it is easier the closer it gets to my toes. I'd me comfortable if even a tiny flick would shift it up - that's how close I'd love to have it, but I think I'll live with it in the mean time and see if I can just live with it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Unfortunatly, if you extend the lever, the throw WILL be longer. Not a lot.

If your handy with a welder, some metal working skills, picking up a used shifter for cheap and having at it would be an interesting project..

 

[Zealot]

Unfortunatly, if you extend the lever, the throw WILL be longer. Not a lot.

If your handy with a welder, some metal working skills, picking up a used shifter for cheap and having at it would be an interesting project..

I've got both metal working and welding skills from high school shop and a two year Millwright program at college - I just don't have the shop tools or money to buy them (and dear god, I don't have the space either).

Going to bounce the idea off some people I know and see if it goes anywhere. Thanks for the ideas!

 

[FinalImpact]

You could open the hole in the rear sets too. Not ideal, but an option. It would not be as desired as it messes up the geometry of the two 90° angles.

Lever:
A simple slice from a hacksaw a few inches from the end cutting 2/3 of the way through it, then bend it to desired position and weld up the opening. Grind, Paint, done.

I don't know how you hit the kickstand bolts as mine clears it. Is it bent inwards?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You could open the hole in the rear sets too. Not ideal, but an option. It would not be as desired as it messes up the geometry of the two 90° angles.

Lever:
A simple slice from a hacksaw a few inches from the end cutting 2/3 of the way through it, then bend it to desired position and weld up the opening. Grind, Paint, done.

I don't know how you hit the kickstand bolts as mine clears it. Is it bent inwards?

If you adjust the rod (with the one end with reverse threads) too far, it will make contact with a metal part (forgot exactly where, its been at least 4 years) and will limit shifter travel. I have mine down as low as it will go W/O hitting anything but I'm comfy with it right there..

Good idea on the cut and bend but I think he wants it longer due to big feet/boots...

 

[Zealot]

You could open the hole in the rear sets too. Not ideal, but an option. It would not be as desired as it messes up the geometry of the two 90° angles.

Lever:
A simple slice from a hacksaw a few inches from the end cutting 2/3 of the way through it, then bend it to desired position and weld up the opening. Grind, Paint, done.

I don't know how you hit the kickstand bolts as mine clears it. Is it bent inwards?

Nothing appears to be bent. There just comes a certain point where the lever hits the bolt and prevents shifting into first. It's okay now, although I'd like it lower still, so I'll just tough it out I think.