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Limiter

Mattberkshire

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Quick question. With the winter sun we're having in the UK it's often quite hard to see the revs read-out. Does the FZ6 have a rev-limiter after the red-line or would it just carry on revving and turn the engine to mush? I would never do this but it's worth knowing. (no smart-arses please).
 
But it only works under acceleration...it won't limit (read: save!) your engine under deceleration.

EDIT - You've really never hit the limiter?
 
But it only works under acceleration...it won't limit (read: save!) your engine under deceleration.

EDIT - You've really never hit the limiter?

Can't say that I have on the FZ6 but then again I generally don't pull it more than around 13,500. I have hit it a couple of times on the Sporty and this was my mistake as I really shouldn't have been over 6,000rpm.
 
i've questioned when mine is activated, wanted to have it run on a dyno and adjust it as required....I've heard many are set lower from the factory than the redline....not giving you the full redline RPM.....

You shouldn't need a dyno to test that. The rev limiter will work just fine in neutral with the bike on the centerstand.

Fred
 
I'm sure it does have one for engine safety reasons. But if you want to try for fun.
Hold in the clutch or use nuteral, and just rev the engine until you see it bounce off the last number in the red zone. It should drop it 2 or 3k rpm.
 
They should be one and the same. The bike's computer has to know the correct RPM, otherwise the bike just won't run right. Fueling won't be right and spark timing will be way off. It just wouldn't run if the computer didn't know the correct RPM.

Do you mean that the analog tachometer might be out of calibration? I can picture that, and there's probably a calibration pot on it somewhere if you took it apart. But the tach doesn't control the rev limiter. The rev limiter is a function of the EFI/Ignition computer.

If you really don't trust the tach, you could always hook up a timing light with tachometer to the bike and verify it.

Fred
 
But that's giving you indicated RPM, not actual.

Correct and this is why Yamaha got beat up on the 2007 R6 as the actual RPM was about 1,500 or so lower than the indicated RPM at redline. Our bikes are nowhere near the redline when they reach maximum horsepower output which as it turns out is around 12,500rpm however, the shift point will need to be around 13,200 to fall back to that maximum output in the next gear.
 
They should be one and the same. The bike's computer has to know the correct RPM, otherwise the bike just won't run right. Fueling won't be right and spark timing will be way off. It just wouldn't run if the computer didn't know the correct RPM.

Do you mean that the analog tachometer might be out of calibration? I can picture that, and there's probably a calibration pot on it somewhere if you took it apart. But the tach doesn't control the rev limiter. The rev limiter is a function of the EFI/Ignition computer.

If you really don't trust the tach, you could always hook up a timing light with tachometer to the bike and verify it.

Fred

lol...all I'm saying is that when your tach reads 14,000 your engine is not spinning at 14,000 RPM but rather closer to 13,000. This common knowledge...just think back to the whole 17,500 RPM R6 redline fiasco.

EDIT - HavBlue beat me to it.

I fully understand the tach does not control the rev limiter. :thumbup:
 
i hit the rev limiter all the time after my bike is warmed up sitting there in neutral. its like a pinging noise. i hit it once in 3rd goin down a stretch and it felt weird like sudden cruise control.
 
Quick question. With the winter sun we're having in the UK it's often quite hard to see the revs read-out. Does the FZ6 have a rev-limiter after the red-line or would it just carry on revving and turn the engine to mush? I would never do this but it's worth knowing. (no smart-arses please).
In my quest for wheelies I often hit the limiter, this is bad as the power drops very suddenly and can cause a rather hard landing. I do worry about those fork seels.
My quest must continue though.
 
I usually hit the rev limiter when racing away from something and it is a sudden jolt and loss of power which is annoying but it is my own dumb mistake. (on the old bike at least) only 113 miles on the FZ mean i have not done much over 7k rpm's
 
lol...all I'm saying is that when your tach reads 14,000 your engine is not spinning at 14,000 RPM but rather closer to 13,000. This common knowledge...just think back to the whole 17,500 RPM R6 redline fiasco.

EDIT - HavBlue beat me to it.

I fully understand the tach does not control the rev limiter. :thumbup:

Ya think it's that far off DI? I've never heard from anyone that has checked it on a drum run so I don't know but I wouldn't think it was that far out on the light side. I know my Sporty was pretty much dead on and the rev limiter is set at 6,200rpm which is pretty close to where it pops off.
 
I seem to remeber people reporting that the dyno redline came in at 13,500 while the indicated redline is 14,500, right? Could remember wrong as I've never done it myself...I'm sure someone here has.
 
Ya think it's that far off DI? I've never heard from anyone that has checked it on a drum run so I don't know but I wouldn't think it was that far out on the light side. I know my Sporty was pretty much dead on and the rev limiter is set at 6,200rpm which is pretty close to where it pops off.
The UK motorcycle mag Supabikes did a dyno test on the alleged R6 18,000 rpm and it actually came out at 15,000. It was actually a very goog article that explained the physics of how a piston can only move at maximun X amount of meters pers second. I will check my back issues to find the exact explanation. I can definately say though that there was a huge disparity from the YAMAHA spec to actual engine performance.

Neil
 
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I've had mine on a Dyno and the tach was right on.:confused: This is not an R6, nor is it intended for the track, which is why I doff my hat to the guys who do race them. The power curve is close to advertised as well, with the peak numbers at the rear wheel a bit lower than claimed.
 
I've had mine on a Dyno and the tach was right on.:confused:


Oh snap...now I gotta start backing up my "memory" with some graphs...lol...will go searching now :) How exactly did you figure out that it was right on?

In the meantime, do you have a graph or other results to post?


EDIT - Indicated/advertised Redline is 14,500, right? Not sure what everyone will make of these but here's what I found after a few minutes of searching...

Sportbikes.net

Sportbikes.net

Sportbikes.net
 
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