just passed test. Help with fixing some things on FZ6

[neilw]

Hello,
I just passed my test yesterday and so could ride my FZ6 for the first time

Anyway, I have two minor gripes I'm hoping somebody could help with

1. The clutch cable is right in front of the key and it's really annoying. I saw a thread for 'mikes' mod to redirect the cable but I couldn't find it, just the picture. Can anyone help?

2. The foot pegs seem really slack. Whenever I move my foot to applly brake/change gear the peg slides shut with my foot. Is this normal on the bike or is there a way of tightening the spring?

btw, this is my bike:

 

[Fishwiz4]

congrats... very nice looking bike.

I have never heard of a way to tighten the footpeg springs, but i but you ciould find a completly differnet spring of a different strength and cut it to length.

sorry i cant be much help.

good luck.

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Yeah, they're loose so they can move out of the way when your feet are on the ground.

Why would they be slaming in when you shifted? You aren't leaving your foot on the peg while you shift or brake? If you're using anything on the brake but your big toe, you're braking too hard. Taking your feet off the pegs to shift just seems weird and harder to me. I ride with the balls of my feet on the pegs, then slide my foot forward until it catches on the heel, then lift or lower my foot. And I don't acutally use the rear that often. :spank:

As far as the cable, it's just a cable, take it out of the lever and route it however you want. As long as you can still move the bars the full range of travel, it should work fine.

 

[neilw]

I rode it first with my plimsols (I know, it's wrong) and everything was fine. But having largeish feet (size 11) and wearing full size boots the only way I can change gear/brake is by moving my feet out and around onto the pedal. That movement (there's a slight heel on the boot) seems to cause the pedal to move with my foot.

I'm a complete mechanical newbie, maybe I'll ask a garage when getting a service whether they can easily move the cable.

btw, the chrome bracket that fits the peg and foot levers (as picture above) is quite loose and wobbly, I think that's just because the bolts are on rubber mounts? I'm a bit paranoid as I bought it without anyone who knew a thing about bikes!

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Yep, they're wobbly and loose to help kill the vibrations. You can flip the washers and they'll be rock solid.

The pedals are adjustable if you need them to be. The shift side is adjusted at that peg on the motor. But you'll have to take off several things to adjust it. Sounds like you just need to move the shifter up a notch. The brake side is really easy. One bolt.

To take the cable off, all you need to do, is remove the bolt that holds the lever on. Watch for the sleeve when you take it out. Then turn the adjuster until the slit in it lines up with the slit in the mount. Pull the cable out through that slit. Volia. It's off. Then run it however you want! Once you put it back on, readjust the tension and move your handlebars all the way left and right to make sure the new route doesn't bind up on the forks. Tension should be set so there's little to no play in the lever before it starts pulling the clutch, but no tighter than that.

While you're at it, the one bolt that holds on the clutch lever assy, and the two that hold on the brake can be loosened. Then adjust those for your normal riding position. Sit on the bike like you're riding 90% of the time. (Have a buddy help you hold it up so you can put your feet on the pegs if you can.) Then without moving, stick all four fingers straight out, they should be resting on the top of the lever. Bolt them back down and call it a day.

Then pull the seat, and look at the top of the rear shock. See it's got holes with numbers on them? That's the preload. I'm 172lbs with gear on and I use #4 (higher = stiffer) This is adjusted to your weight. Not for ride height. There's a tool in the tool kit (called a spanner wrench) that you can use to adjust this.

Your bike is now setup properly for you.

 

[Erci]

Excellent advice has already been provided, so I won't repeat it, but I'll just say that I too had to adjusted shift lever up to make it work comfortably with my sport boots (built in lean angle). Otherwise I couldn't just slide the toe of the boot under the shift lever.

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Heh, I found a lever adjustment thread. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/36775-adjust-rear-brake-gear-pedals.html

 

[mxgolf]

:welcome: Good advise from all. Ride safe and enjoy the ride! :rockon:

 

[texcollect]

I had an issue with the foot pegs and what was causing it was the rubber on the foot peg catching the sole of my boot when I slid it forward to change gear. The boots in question were basically work boots with a heavily cleated sole. When I went to motorcycle boots with a smoother sole then the problem went away.

Just my 2c worth YMMV.

 

[arkay]

I'm just down the A19 from you, in Stockton. If you're ever down here, PM me and you can take a look at my bike and see how things are.

 

[MHS]

Good info, no need to repeat.

btw - nice bike.

 

[neilw]

Thanks. I defo need to adjust the pedals. When I was riding home (I'm quite tall, 6 foot 2) I found my feet were on the peg but with toes inside the brake/gear pointing downwards so to change down gear I had to lift my entire foot off the peg. Same for rear brake.

But going by the diagram:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/36775-adjust-rear-brake-gear-pedals.html

Lucky somebody mentioned it as to adjust the brake I was just going to loosen the allen bolt (the pivot), take the pedal off and rotate it round a bit given it's all toothed. The diagram tells me to to use the bolts

btw, does anyone know how to adjust the free-play on the pedals, it's not in my manual, but my YBR125 tells me how to adjust it for rear brake so that might be roughly the same.