Is this sludge normal?

[cook.675]

My clutch cable frayed out and is hanging on by a thread.

Today i was replacing it, I took off the airbox and noticed this in the third hose (hose farthest to the right). I dont remember seeing it last time I took it apart but Im also not sure. What is it exactly? Also what does this third hose do?

Thanks!






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cook.675]

Crankcase breather hose!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No, that's NOT normal…


Looks like lots of moisture in the oil (not good).

What's the oil look like?

Is the engine temp getting up to temp (no stuck thermostat preventing FULL warm up)?

Air box mod picking up water?

 

[cook.675]

no airbox mod (that i can see or am aware of)

oil looks fine... except it looks pretty full. Possible I added to much on the last change?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cook.675]

Engine temp is always normal. gets up to temp within a minute or 2 or turning it on. Always sits around the middle of the gauge on the dash


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The higher oil level won't turn white.

*You can lower the oil level slightly easily by cracking the oil filter loose some (oil will leak out), then re-tighten. Make sure it's clean around the base/gasket before spinning it loose.

The oil looks fine (no signs of water) on the dip stick.


I'd probably pull that hose, flush that goo out and re-assemble.


Just keep an eye on the coolant level and oil level-
That the coolant doesn't LOWER and the oil level rise- Indicating the coolant system leaking into the engine oil (very, very rare).

 

[cook.675]

I took a picture of the coolant level and cleaned out the hoses and the line on the air box.

I also started to notice some cracking in the seal around the airbox boots, should this be resealed and if so any suggestions?

I think Im going to do my valve check (finally) in a couple weeks so ill have it back off again

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If your referring to parts 10 & 11: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2005/fz6-fz6st/intake-1 that go into the air box, they should fit snug and no sealer should be needed. Looks like someone already tried sealer (which broke down)...

I would replace them (their cheap enough) all. The new rubber will be more flexible and fit as new(no leaks). You don't want to be sucking crap in there BY-PASSING the AIR FILTER..

Just over time, many heat cycles, the rubber hardens up, sometimes shrinks, etc...


*Part #18 is the hose I gather with the goo inside?

 

[cook.675]

Yes its parts 10 and 11, but from your description and the partzilla diagram it looks like these are 4 seperate parts that aren’t physically connected to the the airbox (part 5)?

If this is the case its surprising because for me its all 1 unit; the 4 joints and the case are connected with that cracking sealant from the picture above.

I notice when I put the box back on, get everything really snug and bolted down, the interface where the joints meet the TBs on the INSIDE are smooth and flush towards the back of the bike, but the side facing the front has a small gap you can feel when you run your finger across it. Is that normal? I tried to make it completly flush and could not. Not sure if my description makes sense.

and YES, part 18 is the hose with goo. The old clutch cable was the perfect tool to snake some paper towels through there


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes its parts 10 and 11, but from your description and the Partzilla diagram it looks like these are 4 separate parts that aren’t physically connected to the air box (part 5)? THAT IS CORRECT, THERE ALL SEPARATE PARTS.

WHEN REMOVING THE AIR BOX, IT'S USUALLY DONE BY LOOSENING THE CLAMPS ON THE TROTTLE BODIES(LEAVING THOSE BOOTS ATTACHED TO THE BOX).


If this is the case its surprising because for me its all 1 unit; the 4 joints and the case are connected with that cracking sealant from the picture above. THAT IS THE CASE. THERE SHOULDN'T BE ANY SEALANT THERE, FRESH RUBBER WILL FIT TIGHT TO THE BOX..



I notice when I put the box back on, get everything really snug and bolted down, the interface where the joints meet the TBs on the INSIDE are smooth and flush towards the back of the bike, but the side facing the front has a small gap you can feel when you run your finger across it. Is that normal? NO, IT'S WORN OUT..


I tried to make it completely flush and could not. Not sure if my description makes sense. YES IS MAKES SENSE. THE BOOTS ARE WORN / MIS-SHAPED AND AS NOTED EARLIER, USUALLY ISN'T EVER REMOVED- (THOSE BOOTS COME OFF WITH THE BIKES LOWER AIR BOX).

NEW BOOTS WILL FIT TIGHT AND SLIP ON MUCH EASIER. THOSE BOOTS ARE AT LEAST TWELVE YEARS OLD.

and YES, part 18 is the hose with goo. The old clutch cable was the perfect tool to snake some paper towels through there

Did your clutch cable look like this (25,000 miles, always maintained/lubed):

 

[Gary in NJ]

I read the title of the thread and thought to myself "no". Sludge isn't normal anywhere on a motorcycle. As Scott has pointed out, hat sludge is the result of oil and water mixing. Is the bike stored outside or in an area of high humidity?

 

[cook.675]

Did your clutch cable look like this (25,000 miles, always maintained/lubed):

Hmmm I didnt see anything in the service manual about putting your cable in a blender after lubing......


[MENTION=10150]gary[/MENTION]: Yes to both questions. Im in san francisco about 20 blocks from the ocean and the bike is kept outside all the time. But I do put a cover on it everynight


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Gary in NJ]

On a hot and humid day a bike cover becomes a green house. There’s your source for the moisture.