Is the rear tire peeling out?

[Motohead]

When coming out of corners, wide open in the powerband, is the back tire spinning? I wore down my rear tire to a dangerous looking baldy when the front tire still looks new. I am starting to think saving the rear tire is alot cheaper. A track day must really toast the tires and be expensive- to be replacing tires.

 

[TripNip]

The back tyre wont be spinning... Unless you've learnt how to powerslide on public roads.

Rear tyres just naturally wear down alot quicker than the front, that's where the power is!

 

[DDS]

It's not unusual to go through 2 rears to one front

 

[wrlomas]

I get twice the miles on the front. I think it means you are doing this thing right. Keep it up.

 

[LCR]

In general people are harder on the rear than the front people accelerate harder than they brake. And in general the rear wears faster than the front because it's rear wheel drive.

And yes tires for the track can get expensive especially when you start racing.

If you want to save some money look for race or track day take offs on local forums or craigslist. I usually sell my take offs for 100-150/set depending on the condition.

 

[RJ2112]

When coming out of corners, wide open in the powerband, is the back tire spinning? I wore down my rear tire to a dangerous looking baldy when the front tire still looks new. I am starting to think saving the rear tire is alot cheaper. A track day must really toast the tires and be expensive- to be replacing tires.

I personally believe a tire set should wear very nearly evenly, between the front and rear. As others have said, changing speed or direction results in friction, which wears away the tires.

My opinion is that the forces acting on the front and rear are accounted for, in the size of the tires fitted. The rear being twice as wide, it deals with roughly twice as much force. Most of the acceleration should wear the rear. Most of the braking forces should wear the front. Cornering loads should be nearly 50-50.

If you are wearing out rear tires 2:1 compared to your front(s), I suspect you are doing most of your braking with the back tire, rather than the front.

 

[LCR]

Nice using logic to solve the issue however it is wrong. Not trying to insult you or anything just that it isn't correct.

Even on the track tires are worn at nearly a 2-1 rate and the only time the rear is used is to adjust lines during trail braking( "backing it in" is the extreme example of it)

the forces are necessary accounted for in the tire size but not in the way you are stating. The tire size deals with what each tire needs to do. The rear tire needs to be wide in order to provide enough traction to get the power to the ground. The front tire turns the bike via countersteer. a large front tire does not turn as well as a smaller tire. The braking forces on a front tire are not as severe as the acceleration forces on a rear.

Also braking no matter which one will put pressure on the front tire. Braking causes a negative acceleration, putting weight on the front of the bike and taking it off of the rear. Once "X" amount of weight has moved off the rear then the rear brakes can no longer provide braking force and causes the rear wheel to lock up.

Sportbike geometry allows 100% of braking force to be applied to the front wheel and therefore allows 100% of the weight to be supported on the front wheel(endo/stoppie) On a cruiser type bike the geometry does not allow more than 60%-80% of the weight to be transferred to the front and therefore the front simply locks up, just like the rear locks up under hard rear braking on any bike

 

[RJ2112]

Nice using logic to solve the issue however it is wrong. Not trying to insult you or anything just that it isn't correct.

Even on the track tires are worn at nearly a 2-1 rate and the only time the rear is used is to adjust lines during trail braking( "backing it in" is the extreme example of it)

the forces are necessary accounted for in the tire size but not in the way you are stating. The tire size deals with what each tire needs to do. The rear tire needs to be wide in order to provide enough traction to get the power to the ground. The front tire turns the bike via countersteer. a large front tire does not turn as well as a smaller tire. The braking forces on a front tire are not as severe as the acceleration forces on a rear.

Also braking no matter which one will put pressure on the front tire. Braking causes a negative acceleration, putting weight on the front of the bike and taking it off of the rear. Once "X" amount of weight has moved off the rear then the rear brakes can no longer provide braking force and causes the rear wheel to lock up.

Sportbike geometry allows 100% of braking force to be applied to the front wheel and therefore allows 100% of the weight to be supported on the front wheel(endo/stoppie) On a cruiser type bike the geometry does not allow more than 60%-80% of the weight to be transferred to the front and therefore the front simply locks up, just like the rear locks up under hard rear braking on any bike

No insult taken...

I just happen to disagree. I've ridden a fair number of bikes (>100K miles on the street, probably around 20K off road), and the only street bike that wore the rear much more quickly than the front was the first one I rode a lot. I simply didn't understand how to use the front. Relying on the rear tire for most of the braking as well as the accel.

As you state, if 100% of the braking forces on a sporting type bike are applied to the front, you have to scrub off just as much rubber to get the traction to slow down what you speed up with the rear.... shouldn't that lead to very nearly even wear?

 

[LCR]

Tire compounds,temp and, road conditions affect this also. A harder compound will wear slower than a softer compound. This will have nothing to do with acceleration or deceleration, even at a constant speed the soft tire will wear quicker than a hard tire due to abrasion with the ground. And most tires are made of different compounds front to rear.

And if your relying on the rear for most of your braking on any bike your doing it wrong.

 

[ChevyFazer]

I kinda see what your getting at with saying that brake with the front should scrub off the same amout of.rubber but acceleration forces on higher powered bikes are way higher then any braking froces. The only people that ive meet or talked too who wear out tires even are those who either ride lower powered bikes or just plain ride slow "cruise" no offensive but it seems you are way over thinking this.

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk

 

[RJ2112]

I kinda see what your getting at with saying that brake with the front should scrub off the same amout of.rubber but acceleration forces on higher powered bikes are way higher then any braking froces. The only people that ive meet or talked too who wear out tires even are those who either ride lower powered bikes or just plain ride slow "cruise" no offensive but it seems you are way over thinking this.

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk

I'm just expressing what I have personally experienced between 1985 and now. If we ever get a chance to ride together, you can decide for yourself if I ride slow or not.

Having put 25K on an FZ6, I wouldn't say it's the most powerful bike I've ridden, but it's not a slouch in that regard, either.

People who do not use their front brakes to their full potential will wear out the rear tire faster than the front. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Motohead]

Taken from an article:The rear will indeed see that the center wears out first and faster than the front. Each time you downshift to engine brake, upshift and release the clutch, roll on the throttle or roll off the throttle, you will scuff the rear tire at the contact patch. Along with that, the rear is your drive tire and at speed, the rear contact patch is the only thing that keeps you going (don't believe it? Just let off the throttle and see how quickly your bike slows to a stop!). Since most acceleration/deceleration and braking occurs when the bike is more or less straight up this wear is most evident in the center of the rear tire. Drive shaft bikes are the worst offenders since they are notably "herky jerky" and transfer the shock of accel/decel directly to the rear contact patch unbuffered. Belt and chain drives will "buffer" these shocks and lessen this kind of wear. This same scuffing action is minimal on the front tire because the front tire is undriven and merely rolls while the rear tire is doing all the inertial work. When brakes are applied, traction at the front tire improves minimizing scuffing while traction at the rear tire deteriorates maximizing scuffing.

 

[Motohead]

I brake with front very hard and the rear mostly to adjust lines. I also am on the gas hard in some sections of road. Not crazy but I dont commute on my bike, its for thrills. My back tire is toast when the front looks like its too new to change.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Almost all of my last street bikes wear out the tires 2 to 1 (ft lasting twice as long as the rear). I use both ft and rear brakes and probably the front a bit more (as conditions allow).

As stated above, tire type, displacement/torque will also take its toll on the rear tire. My FJR (145HP and heavy) will go thru two rear tires to one front.

 

[DefyInertia]

You always hear people talking about wearing out two rears for one front. I think it's generally a pretty common result for the way the average person rides (wide range there). I've had tires wear out that way (this may or may not have at one time or another involved a burnout). More often I have them wear out one to one. Unfortunately, I've also worn one rear for two fronts...

:needpics:

I did one rear (1 and 1/2 of the rear, as the cords were showing) to two fronts on my last set of tires, the BT-016s. But the fronts are known for often wearing before the rear.

1st front, not quite warn yet but just at the bars


1st and only rear at the end of its life...I would have to look but I believe the rear had around 4.5K on it.

 

[Motohead]

Pictures are great! What Ive learned from this thread is the rear tire does not peel out, it scuffs in any action, it wears faster than the front, for most riders two rears to one front, with exceptions. Thanks.

 

[DefyInertia]

Pictures are great! What Ive learned from this thread is the rear tire does not peel out, it scuffs in any action, it wears faster than the front, for most riders two rears to one front, with exceptions. Thanks.

I forgot to ask, where in NorCal do you ride?

And when you are experiencing this, you are in 2nd gear?

 

[Motohead]

Hwy 25 out to Harris Ranch for lunch and back. 2nd gear to warp speed. Nice weekday am ride.

 

[DefyInertia]

Hwy 25 out to Harris Ranch for lunch and back. 2nd gear to warp speed. Nice weekday am ride.

Oh I alwasy think of that as central Cali. You live somewhere south of San Jose?

 

[Motohead]

San Jose near 17. Perfect access to 9, 35, 17, 1. Out to 25 is good because my Monterey Peninsula buddies meet in Hollister and we hit those backcountry roads all the way out to Hwy 5 and back.