Ignition Advancer

[tuul01]

hi guys,

was wondering if anyone could shed a bit of light on a question of mine. Have recently gutted the cat on my bike with an Arrow down pipe when someone mentioned fitting of an ignition advancer to the bike to get better power output from the engine. I know that it varies how much more you get depending on how the bike is set up from the factory.

has anyone done this mod and if so, what were the results like... was it worth doing? Any other opinions would also be welcomed! :thumbup:

 

[SovietRobot]

I'm not sure how easy it is to change the ignition timing, I think the power commander allows this but I don't know how to do it.

Most people get a power commander and get a custom fuel map dyno tuned for your bike.

 

[tuul01]

I've already the PC thing along with TBR cans, BMC filter and dyno tune. Had the down pipe added to provide unrestricted flow of exhausts but like i said had the advancer option mentioned to me. So you don't think its worth it then?

 

[SovietRobot]

I'm not even sure if it's possible. And if it is, it MIGHT be more trouble than its worth.
But alas, I would like to know also.

 

[SovietRobot]

It appears DynoJet offers an Ignition Module that works in conjunction with the PCIII USB and requires tuning.

Ignition Module

 

[Mexi-can't]

Factory Pro makes a +4 ignition advancer. Here's one place to get them from. Of course doing this would likely require you run premium gas.

 

[someone08]

advancing the ignition would increase the power over the entire band, but the bike would be running leanner and if the bike has already been tuned then it would run leanner and you could blow the motor, but if you only add a few degrees it shouldnt be a problem, but it really is harder on the motor. with this said its up to you if you want to keep adding power at the expense of reliability.

 

[tuul01]

ok, so I've looked into the ignition advancer and it looks like the R6 is different to the fazer (it has 4 spokes where as the fazer runs 8) which means it can't be bolted on... however you can modify the stock one slightly by cutting part of the inner 'notch' away so you can manually rotate it forward slightly. Had mine done yesterday and it definitely seems to give it more umph... how much though is unknown right now as it was too hot here yesterday to get a reliable dyno run on. I'll let you know when I do though. :thumbup:

 

[Fred]

This sort of tweak can gain you a little bit of power, but it's a tradeoff. You may get some detonation on hot days under heavy loads. If you do, try going to higher octane fuel.

I advanced the old K bike's ignition by 6 degrees and it made a nice difference in the way it ran, but premium fuel became a necessity.

If you can get a PCIII plugin, that would be a much better solution, since you could advance timing by different amounts for different conditions.

Fred

 

[tuul01]

I had the bike re-dyno'ed & alas I lost some hp - about 2 and a bit!!

I asked the guy why it had happened and he couldn't explain it. It just seems as if a mechanical advance isn't really appreciated by the engine so it's been rotated back so it should be at the previous dyno sweet spot of 94.5 HP at the rear wheel. :thumbup:

 

[wolfc70]

I had the bike re-dyno'ed & alas I lost some hp - about 2 and a bit!!

I asked the guy why it had happened and he couldn't explain it. It just seems as if a mechanical advance isn't really appreciated by the engine so it's been rotated back so it should be at the previous dyno sweet spot of 94.5 HP at the rear wheel. :thumbup:

down 2 hp? That sounds like day to day variances with dyno's. Heck I have seen huge differences on runs the same day, just by changing atmospheric pressure and air temperature. A loss of 2 hp seems just like normal variable changes, I would not worry about it.