I want to replace my spark plugs

[Heywood]

^^^

Good info (same as what I found way back, exactly) but your boots should go all the way down...

If you put some dielectric grease (very light coat) where the rubber boots meet the valve cover and a little inside the boot, they'll go on much easier and FULLY.

You'll actually hear the caps snap on. Their very likely NOT on fully and may cause issues.. Grease em up!!

I should have stated that I did grease the boots where they contact the plug but didn't do the covers. I was attentive to the snap to ensure the plug was engaged with the boot. I'll have to shoot a pic later tonight and post up. Runs great but seemed odd that the cap didn't seat fully to the valve cover.. I spent some time trying to diag but couldn't find anything wrong with the boot seating to the plug. I did some serious pushing and the boot doesn't go any farther. there is a raised ring on the boot that the cap fits in, I can always slide the cap down the boot just a bit or put that above the cap. Like I mentioned, pics to come.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just with the many heat cycles that rubber boot endures, the rubber hardens up with time (makes a great seal to the aluminum too!)

When you initially pulled the boots, I suspect they took some prying or somewhat serious pulling.

Some Dielectric grease (not regular grease) where the boots seal around the valve cover will make installation MUCH EASIER, and "definite", guaranteed...

 

[Heywood]

Ok so you may look at this and say yeah that's on but to me it's off just a mm or two as I can see the dark ring (clean spot) just under the rubber cap.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed...

How long would it take to simple lift each cap (they don't need to come out of the hole) and smear just a little dielectric grease around the base of each boot(only where it contacts the valve cover)?

That rubber lip NOT fully in the valve cover IS pulling the cap UP, away from the plug. It's likely partially attached, but not fully.

I just did a valve adjustment on mine at least 10,000 miles later, from the last plug change (and "grease job"). The caps came off without "battling" with them. They got re-greased (inside and the outer edge) when re-assembled...

Again, you hear / feel the "click" that the plug cap WAS FULLY on the plug.


It's your call, just trying to prevent later issues..

 

[jdmlude]

Heywood, were you able to change the plugs w/o unbolting the radiator?

 

[Heywood]

It's not difficult to pull them, well exc. for #1. I had to pull the tank/battery to finally wrangle that one out of the socket but since it doesn't have to go that far shouldn't be bad. But yes they all firmly click/snap now when seating.

 

[Heywood]

Heywood, were you able to change the plugs w/o unbolting the radiator?

Yes, but I pulled the tank/battery instead. The coil is attached to the front of the battery tray and by removing that it gave me some room to wrestle with #1. The rest are easy and do not require removal of anything. I probably spent as much time on #1 as I did doing the other 3. A ratcheting box wrench and a Sidewinder ratchet made quick work of them.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Heywood, were you able to change the plugs w/o unbolting the radiator?

I was able to change mine W/O removing any other parts. I did have to use the bikes, tool kit socket(especially for #1), and some other wrenches, etc.

I was even able to get my torque wrench in there and torque em down.

Now I did have some small scratches on my right had once done (kinda big hands), but it's very do-able..

When re-installing the plugs, it's best to put a short piece of hose on the end of the plug, slowly set it in the hole, and start the threads with the hose.

You can use the socket (with some masking tape inserted INSIDE THE SOCKET, so the plug doesn't drop out and change the gap / damage the plug

 

[jdmlude]

I was able to change mine W/O removing any other parts. I did have to use the bikes, tool kit socket(especially for #1), and some other wrenches, etc.

I was even able to get my torque wrench in there and torque em down.

Now I did have some small scratches on my right had once done (kinda big hands), but it's very do-able..

When re-installing the plugs, it's best to put a short piece of hose on the end of the plug, slowly set it in the hole, and start the threads with the hose.

You can use the socket (with some masking tape inserted INSIDE THE SOCKET, so the plug doesn't drop out and change the gap / damage the plug

I was planning on adding some masking tape to the inside of the oem socket tool until the plug was seated firmly enough not to fall out.

 

[Heywood]

I was planning on adding some masking tape to the inside of the oem socket tool until the plug was seated firmly enough not to fall out.

My factory socket tool (came with bike) had a small rubber grommet at the top that held the plug in place, quite handy.

 

[jdmlude]

Heywood. I noticed on mine the plug boots don't sit flush either. Around 1-2mm gap. Previous owner stated the plugs were changed but I didn't believe him. But when I went to change mine this weekend I noticed the fins on the rad were all banged up and the valve cover was chipped. Tell tale signs the plugs were changed at the shop. LOL. Based on that and that the bike runs great I opted to not to change them yet.

 

[Heywood]

Heywood. I noticed on mine the plug boots don't sit flush either. Around 1-2mm gap. Previous owner stated the plugs were changed but I didn't believe him. But when I went to change mine this weekend I noticed the fins on the rad were all banged up and the valve cover was chipped. Tell tale signs the plugs were changed at the shop. LOL. Based on that and that the bike runs great I opted to not to change them yet.

Yeah, I've spent enough time fiddling with them to know they're on all the way and they're not going any further. Thanks for the confirmation. Too bad about the damage to the rad and valve cover.

 

[FinalImpact]

I'm not sure why one would not drop the two bolts from the radiator and let rest forward... No hoses are undone and it makes the job a breeze. It takes less than a minute to lower the radiator. That includes getting a 10mm socket from your tool box.

A good reason to seal those gaps at the boot is that they allow water ingress but I'd imagine if you're in that bad of weather anything is possible.

If you know the caps are seated, simply press in the center with the flat of a screw driver to shift the boot down the body. Don't go nuts or it will try to lift the body off the plug.

Last thing: with the boot and body out, Gently twist the body clockwise while holding the wire. They are screwed together and should snug up tight and stop spinning.
If not there is a how too sticky in the tech section on how to repair it. Loose wires are known to cause harmonic vibrations but no driveability complaints.

 

[bricksrheavy]

I always forget - can you drop the radiator on both S1 and S2 or is it just a S2 thing?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I believe just the mounting bolts/ brackets (including the radiator) are different between the S1 and S2. About everything else is the same.

So loosening and pushing the top of the radiator would be the same..

 

[bricksrheavy]

Excellent [emoji106] - last time I changed them I didn't drop the radiator and even with my skinny hands and long-ish fingers it was an absolute PITA.

 

[Heywood]

So I'm gonna beat this dead horse... so there is a difference in length between NGK CR9EK(copper) and CR9EIX (iridiuim):
I changed them all again this evening. What I'm really trying to track down is poor mileage. Just calc'd and my last tank (new iridiums) was 32.4mpg, which from my understanding is very low for this bike. Sadly I didn't check the mpg prior to the plug swap but I'm pretty sure it was getting close to 200mi / tank. I checked the TPS in diag mode and it appears fine, 16-101 with a smooth increase with no jumps. What else am I missing? There is only 10770 miles on the bike. I checked the spark on each plug prior to inserting so I am getting good connectivity in the boots. Honestly it runs great, smooth idle but the air box / TB is sure loud. I did pull the air box last time I did the plugs but I thought I was careful to re-seat it and checked it again this evening. Could I have not reconnected something else, vacuum line perhaps? I would expect that to show as an smooth idle issue if so. Driving is all city, short runs, approx 10 mi / day.
ETA: I just tore it down and pulled the air box and found a hose disco'd on the right side just below frame level and didn't see it earlier (didn't pull the box entirely) and that solved the noise issue. I doubt that this will fix the mileage issue but I'll run another tank and record.
Thx.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When I replaced with Iridiums, mileage DIDN'T CHANGE. I didn't feel any performance changes either.

I usually get around 43 MPG around town (not city and not country riding-in between).

Now the tip of the Iridium is precious metal and CANNOT BE adjusted (re-gapped) like a regular plug.
If you adjusted the plug WITHOUT bending the ground strap and checking with a ROUND FEELER (not the normal flat gauge), the plug(s) is likely damaged.

If everything else has been checked and double checked, I'd put new OEM, two ground strap, NGKs back in.
As nothing else has changed, that's all that's left....

BTW, I found the stock plugs to last as long (wear) as the Iridiums. My next plug change will be dumping the iridiums and putting stock plugs back in.


**There is a thread about checking the tightness of the plug cap on the ignition wire. If it's loose/ pulled, etc, any arcing, that WILL make a difference (but you stated no change in performance, no additional vibs I gather??)

There was a re-call on the TPS on certain year bikes. I don't know your year bike so you may want to check into that. A bad TPS will OFTEN not show thru the gauge (acts up when hot, funky idle, stalling, etc).


All things considered, I suspect you have a bad plug... Make sure you DON'T DROP the plug in the hole, either use a rubber hose pushed around the top of the plug, slowly drop in the hole and start threading. A plug dropped will likely change your gap (also causing issues).

 

[Heywood]

When I replaced with Iridiums, mileage DIDN'T CHANGE. I didn't feel any performance changes either.

I usually get around 43 MPG around town (not city and not country riding-in between).

Now the tip of the Iridium is precious metal and CANNOT BE adjusted (re-gapped) like a regular plug.
If you adjusted the plug WITHOUT bending the ground strap and checking with a ROUND FEELER (not the normal flat gauge), the plug(s) is likely damaged.

If everything else has been checked and double checked, I'd put new OEM, two ground strap, NGKs back in.
As nothing else has changed, that's all that's left....

BTW, I found the stock plugs to last as long (wear) as the Iridiums. My next plug change will be dumping the iridiums and putting stock plugs back in.


**There is a thread about checking the tightness of the plug cap on the ignition wire. If it's loose/ pulled, etc, any arcing, that WILL make a difference (but you stated no change in performance, no additional vibs I gather??)

There was a re-call on the TPS on certain year bikes. I don't know your year bike so you may want to check into that. A bad TPS will OFTEN not show thru the gauge (acts up when hot, funky idle, stalling, etc).


All things considered, I suspect you have a bad plug... Make sure you DON'T DROP the plug in the hole, either use a rubber hose pushed around the top of the plug, slowly drop in the hole and start threading. A plug dropped will likely change your gap (also causing issues).

Thanks,
It's a model year 2006, produced 12/2005 so it falls outside of the recall but I will verify. That will be the next step in but it runs really smooth with both sets of plugs, no idle issues or stalling. I pulled the radiator this time and went much better on plug #1. I forgot to mention but did check the plug boots/caps and they were all tight. I'll run this tank and we'll see how it goes.

 

[FinalImpact]

There have been instances of critter invasion into the air box. Some actually ate through the wire mesh air filter and built their home over the TB's....

You might just lift the tank and look in the air box.