How to minimize shop charges for replacing steering bearings and fork springs

[Corsara]

Hi there,

I've purchased the taper roller bearings and RaceTech springs for my front suspension. I've been putting off this project for a month now and the parts are collecting dust in my basement. Shop wants to charge me about 5-6 hours of work to replace the bearings and the springs, which totals to $450+.

Can you guys give me some guidance on how I can minimize these charges? I have most of the common tools, wrenches, etc. that every garage should have, and I don't mind spending some time disassembling stuff. However, anything that is tricky or more complicated---I'd rather not venture and do it right now.

What can I do to minimize the charges? What's the furthest point I can get to without significant sweating and effort?

Thanks in advance.

 

[DeusEx]

The best way to minimize your cost, IMO, is to ask around for another shop.
The price is exaggerated. I paid for WP springs and oil including labor 130 euros
For the handlebar bearings replacement I paid for Koyo including labor 80 euros

 

[Kaisersoze]

Hi there,

I've purchased the taper roller bearings and RaceTech springs for my front suspension. I've been putting off this project for a month now and the parts are collecting dust in my basement. Shop wants to charge me about 5-6 hours of work to replace the bearings and the springs, which totals to $450+.

Can you guys give me some guidance on how I can minimize these charges? I have most of the common tools, wrenches, etc. that every garage should have, and I don't mind spending some time disassembling stuff. However, anything that is tricky or more complicated---I'd rather not venture and do it right now.

What can I do to minimize the charges? What's the furthest point I can get to without significant sweating and effort?

Thanks in advance.

I was quoted $250-$300 with forks off of the bike if I brought them in. If you find a way, I eagerly await to hear it! Good luck with your search.

 

[Corsara]

The best way to minimize your cost, IMO, is to ask around for another shop.
The price is exaggerated. I paid for WP springs and oil including labor 130 euros
For the handlebar bearings replacement I paid for Koyo including labor 80 euros

Thanks pal, I grew up in that part of the world where you are, and I miss it so much.. here though they charge $70-90 / hour, and there's no way around it..

 

[Corsara]

I was quoted $250-$300 with forks off of the bike if I brought them in. If you find a way, I eagerly await to hear it! Good luck with your search.

That's just to replace the springs? lol, that seems like a very high price, especially if you've done all the other disassembling yourself

 

[iSteve]

5 - 6 hours sounds like a lot. I did my springs, oil and greased the steering and wheel bearings in about 3 hours. Installing tapered bearings should be maybe another15 minutes. I would hope a more competent mechanic then me with all the right tools wouldn't take twice as long.

 

[Corsara]

5 - 6 hours sounds like a lot. I did my springs, oil and greased the steering and wheel bearings in about 3 hours. Installing tapered bearings should be maybe another15 minutes. I would hope a more competent mechanic then me with all the right tools wouldn't take twice as long.

I hear you. Unfortunately, I think mechanics go by the "industry standard" estimates for any particular job. So if their manual says it takes 5 hours and they do it in 2, they still charge 5. Sadly, I think they only do the round up, but not the round down (if it actually takes more time). That's why they never quote precise dollar.. this is my understanding

 

[04fizzer]

Unfortunately, shy of finding a new shop, the only other way to do it cheaper is to do it yourself, especially when they're going by book times. Don't fall for the book rates, as there are corners that the mechanics know how to cut to save a LOT of time. The same holds true for auto mechanics.

 

[shuckle]

I hear you. Unfortunately, I think mechanics go by the "industry standard" estimates for any particular job. So if their manual says it takes 5 hours and they do it in 2, they still charge 5. Sadly, I think they only do the round up, but not the round down (if it actually takes more time). That's why they never quote precise dollar.. this is my understanding

Where in Ontario are you? If you ask around you should be able to find a shop being run by a guy on the side. From his garage or whatever. Around here (south western Ontario) there's about 4 within an hour's drive of me.

 

[Corsara]

Where in Ontario are you? If you ask around you should be able to find a shop being run by a guy on the side. From his garage or whatever. Around here (south western Ontario) there's about 4 within an hour's drive of me.

Hamilton. Goderich is not that far, and if there's some guy doing this in his garage about an hour east of you, it can technically work out, lol! Other than that, I haven't heard for such around here, but I haven't asked either, thanks for the idea!

 

[greg]

springs are really easy to change yourself

i'd probably get the bearings done professionally though

 

[marke14]

I agree with Greg above /\

I did my own springs with my brother's help, and the hardest part was cutting the pipe for the spacers. Basically, I would recommend (on the spacers), get those springs seated down inside the fork tubes, and then just pop in a spacer that will bridge the gap between the top of the spring, and the bottom of the fork cap once it is screwed on. I had issues because I cut the spacers longer than that, and then attempted to force them down with the fork cap as I screwed it on - which proved impossible.

The springs were exceedingly easy to change out. At the time I had my center stand installed still, so I had the bike up on the center stand with weights on the tail section, to lift the front tire off the ground. I supported the bike under the headers, so it wouldn't fall forward accidentally. It was seriously easy ... we did the fork oil at the same time (used a 12v oil pump and a tube attached to a piece of metal to suck it all out from the bottom).

The steering head bearings, personally I would pay to have that done but that's because I am a pu$$y. Seems really complicated to me.

 

[FinalImpact]

I've always done all my own wrenching and when it comes time, I'll do those myself. It's just nut and bolts. The big headache at home is not having a press or a means to remove the bearing races easily but depending on what you have access to, there are safe and practical alternatives to do this job at home.

For those of you with an air compressor; you're 90% of the way there. For those of you with friends who own an air compressor, its very doable.

Worst and best case is you take the forks off yourself and remove the top/bottom clamps having someone press off/on the old and new bearings from the shaft.

The races left in the frame can be done with some basic tools and hardware from the store.

I'm not going to write a book on this as its been done already but read the manual and see where you're skill set lands you. If it seem beyond your means, farm it out, if you're not comfortable removing the front wheel don't attempt this. However, if you are ready to get more involved and have some basic tools, the money you save could go elsewhere.

 

[discobiscuit]

If you can turn a wrench and are even somewhat mechanically inclined you can take those forks apart. I just rebuilt the forks on my dirt bike, and those were double oil chamber adjustable shocks. It was'nt that bad, I would highly recommend try to find a mechanics manual. The one Yamaha makes for the FZ6, not a Clymers or like manuals. The mechanics version gives far more detail, assembly process, torque specs etc, they are not cheap but it is for the entire bike so you will use it again.
Even if you spent the same amount of money buying the manual and specialty tools as you would paying a shop, you will end up with the pride of doing it yourself and cool new tools!

 

[Kaisersoze]

If you can turn a wrench and are even somewhat mechanically inclined you can take those forks apart. I just rebuilt the forks on my dirt bike, and those were double oil chamber adjustable shocks. It was'nt that bad, I would highly recommend try to find a mechanics manual. The one Yamaha makes for the FZ6, not a Clymers or like manuals. The mechanics version gives far more detail, assembly process, torque specs etc, they are not cheap but it is for the entire bike so you will use it again.
Even if you spent the same amount of money buying the manual and specialty tools as you would paying a shop, you will end up with the pride of doing it yourself and cool new tools!

^ +1

I have a PDF of the shop manual for 04-06'. PM me if you are interested anyone. I like having both the shop AND my Haynes manual, but as stated above they are very different and help me with different aspects of the bike.

 

[interactive3]

I've always done all my own wrenching and when it comes time, I'll do those myself. It's just nut and bolts. The big headache at home is not having a press or a means to remove the bearing races easily but depending on what you have access to, there are safe and practical alternatives to do this job at home.

For those of you with an air compressor; you're 90% of the way there. For those of you with friends who own an air compressor, its very doable.

Worst and best case is you take the forks off yourself and remove the top/bottom clamps having someone press off/on the old and new bearings from the shaft.

The races left in the frame can be done with some basic tools and hardware from the store.

I'm not going to write a book on this as its been done already but read the manual and see where you're skill set lands you. If it seem beyond your means, farm it out, if you're not comfortable removing the front wheel don't attempt this. However, if you are ready to get more involved and have some basic tools, the money you save could go elsewhere.

For me the most difficult part of replacing the head bearings was removing the old race from the lower triple tree and seating the new races in the frame. A local shop removed the lower race for me (gratis). For the bearing install I had to make some pieces to cradle the new All Balls races/bearings and then use an adapted bicycle headset race setting tool.

I did it all by following a great write up on how to replace the bearings on this FZ6 forum. One part I omitted was taking off the faring. that made it more difficult, but not impossible. I didn't use a compressor, only hand tools.

 

[FinalImpact]

For me the most difficult part of replacing the head bearings was removing the old race from the lower triple tree and seating the new races in the frame. A local shop removed the lower race for me (gratis). For the bearing install I had to make some pieces to cradle the new All Balls races/bearings and then use an adapted bicycle headset race setting tool.

I did it all by following a great write up on how to replace the bearings on this FZ6 forum. One part I omitted was taking off the faring. that made it more difficult, but not impossible. I didn't use a compressor, only hand tools.

With a steady hand and a hand held air powered cut off disk, you cut a diagonal slice right into but not through the lower bearing inner race. Slicing it 75%. With a sharp chisel in the new slice, you smack it with a hammer. The material is so hard it cracks open as its relieved of the stress of being a press fit on the shaft. ***WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!!! *** The race slides off by hand. (This can be done in 10 minutes.)
Clean up the metal dust and using the old race, invert it and use it to tap the new bearing into place. Use a long brass drift and work your way around it until the sound becomes a solid thud once it seats back into place.

And just like the manual shows a guy knocking the races from the frame, knock them out. To put them back there are several options. The bottom line is the hardware store and foot long piece of all-thread and some nuts and washers will be used to pull the new races in. Kinda like using a vice. But washers won't do. You need something larger than the bearing race. like some small blocks of hardwood and then place the old races against the new race and stack the blocks and washers. Tighten the nuts. The races will be pulled into place.
You could also tap them in using the old race a buffer to hit on. But I'd use the vice technique.

Just some ideas. I'm sure a sketch would help.