MitchellsFZ6
Truly obsessed with bikes
:mikebike:Cheers for the post to the URL, I plan on changing my plugs after work tonight, ill report back with how easy it was :thumbup:
How to change spark plugs
- Thread starter dean2287
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Got the plugs in the mail yesterday.
( [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CSGWZM/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details"]Amazon.com: NGK (3521) CR9EIX IX Iridium Spark Plug, Pack of 1: Automotive[/ame] ) $7.40 a piece, free shipping for four.
Checked the gaps, 3 were .031", #4 was .030".
Just finished swapping them out (10,000 miles on the bike).
Some comments,
I found the problems most guys having removing the plug caps is rectified by gently prying up on the rubber cap that seals the plastic spark plug lead to the valve cover. I used a thin long screwdriver, wrapped in duct tape to prevent any scratching. Once the seal was broke, the caps came off much easier.. An air compressor was used to blow out any crap in each cavern..
When later re-assembling, I put just a little bit of di-lectric grease on the inside of the valve cover so the rubber doesn't stick, is more water proof and assembles much easier.
I used the tool kit socket but also used a combo box end 14mm wrench that rachets (Craftsman). Much easier, especially when reaching in to #2and #3 plugs. One click at a time due to the tightness..
For the new plug installation, I used a short piece of hose (about 5") that fit snuggly on the new plugs and feed that down into the hole and threaded it by hand.
Yamaha's manual calls for 13' lbs of torque, the spark plug box 1/2 turn past snug, NGK's website for a 10 mm thread 7.2' to 8.7 ' lbs of torque.
I was able to use the toolkit socket, with a short 6 point 14mm socket and an inch pound torqe wrench. I was able to reach all the plugs (with the radiator dropped per the manual- I removed the top radiator bolt as well) and torqued to 7.2' (felt very tight).
Performance:
I had the original plugs in the bike and regularly use Seafoam and K100
( K100 Fuel Treatment : Fuel Additive, Fuel Saver ). The original plugs looked very good and the bike runs great.
With that said, I really cannot feel any difference between the Iridiums and the stock plugs short of a slightly smoother idle.. I suspect because the originals were in such good shape. A test ride felt the same, acceleration about the same and no noticable difference... I'll keep an eye on gas mileage..
In either case, a racheting 14mm box wrench is a big help with a short piece of hose (I was afraid of dropping the new plug out of the stock plug socket. The hose is much easier to manipulate with the plug into the hole).
Maybe took an hour, tops... Hope this helps...
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk70oyUEftY&feature=player_embedded"]Spark Plug Gap - NGK Spark Plugs - Tech Video - YouTube[/ame]
The below bulletin references anti seize on threads, a must read IMHO:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf
( [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CSGWZM/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details"]Amazon.com: NGK (3521) CR9EIX IX Iridium Spark Plug, Pack of 1: Automotive[/ame] ) $7.40 a piece, free shipping for four.
Checked the gaps, 3 were .031", #4 was .030".
Just finished swapping them out (10,000 miles on the bike).
Some comments,
I found the problems most guys having removing the plug caps is rectified by gently prying up on the rubber cap that seals the plastic spark plug lead to the valve cover. I used a thin long screwdriver, wrapped in duct tape to prevent any scratching. Once the seal was broke, the caps came off much easier.. An air compressor was used to blow out any crap in each cavern..
When later re-assembling, I put just a little bit of di-lectric grease on the inside of the valve cover so the rubber doesn't stick, is more water proof and assembles much easier.
I used the tool kit socket but also used a combo box end 14mm wrench that rachets (Craftsman). Much easier, especially when reaching in to #2and #3 plugs. One click at a time due to the tightness..
For the new plug installation, I used a short piece of hose (about 5") that fit snuggly on the new plugs and feed that down into the hole and threaded it by hand.
Yamaha's manual calls for 13' lbs of torque, the spark plug box 1/2 turn past snug, NGK's website for a 10 mm thread 7.2' to 8.7 ' lbs of torque.
I was able to use the toolkit socket, with a short 6 point 14mm socket and an inch pound torqe wrench. I was able to reach all the plugs (with the radiator dropped per the manual- I removed the top radiator bolt as well) and torqued to 7.2' (felt very tight).
Performance:
I had the original plugs in the bike and regularly use Seafoam and K100
( K100 Fuel Treatment : Fuel Additive, Fuel Saver ). The original plugs looked very good and the bike runs great.
With that said, I really cannot feel any difference between the Iridiums and the stock plugs short of a slightly smoother idle.. I suspect because the originals were in such good shape. A test ride felt the same, acceleration about the same and no noticable difference... I'll keep an eye on gas mileage..
In either case, a racheting 14mm box wrench is a big help with a short piece of hose (I was afraid of dropping the new plug out of the stock plug socket. The hose is much easier to manipulate with the plug into the hole).
Maybe took an hour, tops... Hope this helps...
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk70oyUEftY&feature=player_embedded"]Spark Plug Gap - NGK Spark Plugs - Tech Video - YouTube[/ame]
The below bulletin references anti seize on threads, a must read IMHO:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf
Last edited:
Well well...
Why dont I read better before doing some work :Flash:
Today I changed my sparkplugs (at 7500km) and yes I know this is a bit early but resently bought my bike and it didnt feld like the enginge was running 100% fine. Bought the NGK Iridium plugs. Today whan I was going to change the plugs I ran into a problem. I was not able to get the sparkplug up from the hole. I tried everything but I did not look in the bikes toolkit or read here on the forum. So what did I do, the answer you will find on the pictures below. I you dont have any tool you make one :Flash: This one is actully maked from i fiber cable at work. I took away the fibers inside and it fit just perfectly to puch done the hole and get a grip of the sparkplug to get it up. So for you all out there that dont have the toolkit you have a way to go :Flash:
Why dont I read better before doing some work :Flash:
Today I changed my sparkplugs (at 7500km) and yes I know this is a bit early but resently bought my bike and it didnt feld like the enginge was running 100% fine. Bought the NGK Iridium plugs. Today whan I was going to change the plugs I ran into a problem. I was not able to get the sparkplug up from the hole. I tried everything but I did not look in the bikes toolkit or read here on the forum. So what did I do, the answer you will find on the pictures below. I you dont have any tool you make one :Flash: This one is actully maked from i fiber cable at work. I took away the fibers inside and it fit just perfectly to puch done the hole and get a grip of the sparkplug to get it up. So for you all out there that dont have the toolkit you have a way to go :Flash:
Davey
Junior Member
Finally swapped out my plugs after 32000kms on the originals! I probably should have got round to it sooner, but everything was running fine. Good link to this how to helped a lot (especially the advice on being patient!).
The old plugs actually looked in perfect condition. I swapped them for new OEM plugs and to be honest have not really noticed any difference in performance - but probably because my bike is in good condition.
It continues to surprise me just how great this engine is! Mine seems almost bullet proof despite getting used and abused everyday rain or shine. :cheer:
The old plugs actually looked in perfect condition. I swapped them for new OEM plugs and to be honest have not really noticed any difference in performance - but probably because my bike is in good condition.
It continues to surprise me just how great this engine is! Mine seems almost bullet proof despite getting used and abused everyday rain or shine. :cheer:
Marthy
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I have a magnetic spark plug socket. Work great 95% of the time. It's just a bit more bulky than a regular socket but work great on my 6R. Got that from Advance Auto part for not too expensive... I used the rubber hose in the past many times...
Riash
Junior Member
hi there fellow bikers.
im really stressin with finding da easiest way of removing my plugs,2005 fazer.
i managed to pull out cylinder 4 wiring and plug. wen i moved on to number 3 cylinder bit of a struggle getin da wire al da way out. please sum1, wats da easiest way to do dis?
im really stressin with finding da easiest way of removing my plugs,2005 fazer.
i managed to pull out cylinder 4 wiring and plug. wen i moved on to number 3 cylinder bit of a struggle getin da wire al da way out. please sum1, wats da easiest way to do dis?
William
Junior Member
I just changed the plugs today at 16,570 miles. The only way I could do it was to unbolt the radiator and remove all the radiator hoses. Otherwise, no way would my hands or tools fit in there for 1 through 3. I did a flush of the rad too since it was due so overall no big deal, but getting the radiator out of the way was the only way I could get at the plugs.
Peter Bosch
Junior Member
Did the research by referring to the photos on the link and had no probs at all. Replaced OEMs with NGK Iridiums at 22,000km and what a difference....sooo much smoother! Moved the top of the radiator hose after loosening the clamp to get to #1 cylinder. Also replaced radiator coolant at same time. I am told the radiator doesn't need the air bled off, just top up the overflow reservoir after filling radiator to max. Only thing was at the local bike shop in Sydney, Australia, the 4 plugs cost me nearly $80.00. Still, it was cheaper and more fun attempting the job myself. Thanks for the great help and encouragement I got from this forum. CheersHere's a link to a great step-by-step, easy to understand guide to changing the spark plugs on your FZ6:
How to: Replace your sparkplugs in 20 minutes - Sportbikes.net
It's been posted here before but worth a bump. After 15,000 km (9375 mi) I decided to change them out and this reference helped a lot. Took me about 30 minutes.
If a klutz like me can do it so can you.
Eric 08FZ6
EC Was Here
Nearly 12,000 on my blue 2008 fz6. Not sure what the real difference maker was, but swapped out the OEM air filter with K & N, and replaced the plugs with OEM. Unbelievable difference!!
Nothing considerable on the low end, but midrange, and higher RPMs.. Wow!
Even sounds a little better through the new air filter.
Thanks for a great thread, and refernce to sportbikes.net thread!
All went incredibly easy with the spark plug wrench that is included with the stock tool kit under the seat. There is no need for the flexible hose, or worry about dropping the plugs as the included socket has a built in rubber gromet that holds the plug nicely. I did remove the bottom screw on the radiator to allow the radiator to swing forward a bit. Also allowed a bit more swing on the radiator by removing the hold-down clip on the right side of the bike, bigger hose. The bit of room that you gain made the harder to get to #2, and #1 much easier. removed all plugs from the right side, but found it easier to put in #1 from the left. Whole job took me less than 1/2 hour!
Again, great thread, appreciate the info!!
Nothing considerable on the low end, but midrange, and higher RPMs.. Wow!
Even sounds a little better through the new air filter.
Thanks for a great thread, and refernce to sportbikes.net thread!
All went incredibly easy with the spark plug wrench that is included with the stock tool kit under the seat. There is no need for the flexible hose, or worry about dropping the plugs as the included socket has a built in rubber gromet that holds the plug nicely. I did remove the bottom screw on the radiator to allow the radiator to swing forward a bit. Also allowed a bit more swing on the radiator by removing the hold-down clip on the right side of the bike, bigger hose. The bit of room that you gain made the harder to get to #2, and #1 much easier. removed all plugs from the right side, but found it easier to put in #1 from the left. Whole job took me less than 1/2 hour!
Again, great thread, appreciate the info!!
MadWilson
Junior Member
Guys, do you use torque wrenches to tighten the spark plugs?
lawlberg
Booth Babe
About a year ago I used the spark plug wrench that came in the tool kit to try and take off the front wheel - outside diameter looked right - and I was really pissed when it buckled under the force. I just thought that it was a poorly designed tool. Doh! Now that I read this walkthrough I feel like a complete idiot. Anyone else do this using a real plug wrench and socket? Is it still doable without taking off the tank if I've ruined my tool?
Standard tools work. 5/8" plug socket, 4" extension and ratchet!
A cure for bad vibrations, spark plug caps!! <<pictures...
I'd suggest you simply remove the two bolts holding the radiator, let it settle down and all work can be done without further disassembly of anything. Its in that thread link ^^.
A piece of silicone tubing is great for lowing the plugs in as is very difficult / impossible to get a 4" extension + socket + plug past the frame on one of the holes. The angle is too sharp and it just doesn't fit. You can lower the plug in, and then drop the extension in tho with a piece of silicone tubing. Like so!
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lawlberg
Booth Babe
Awesome, thanks! at 24k Miles I think it's probably beyond time to do this and tighten up the caps.
Ohendo
Site Supporter
Just an FYI, the NGK Iridium plugs are only $6.87 on Amazon Prime, free two day shipping if you're a Prime member. (Have to spend $25 to get free shipping if not.)
Amazon.com: NGK CR9EIX Iridium IX Spark Plug: Automotive
Amazon.com: NGK CR9EIX Iridium IX Spark Plug: Automotive
lawlberg
Booth Babe
So what you're saying is - if you order 4... free shipping. :BLAA:
DavesFZ
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And the non iridiums are 2 bucks a piece at auto zone. I don't mind opening her up again in another 10000 miles to check the caps anyway.
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That's exactly what I did.. No membership and no tax either :thumbup:
Ohendo
Site Supporter
Ha! Didn't even occur to me when posting. One of those "Duh" moments!
tommyardin
New Member
Hiya guys, I'm new to this forum, I have been reading all the helpful info about changing the plugs on my 2003 FZS Foxeye.
I think I must of miss read some of the instructions, I only got as far as getting the first plug out, I was sure I read you needed 4 cans of beer for each plug, any way I will have another go tomorrow when I can see straight.
Blah
I think I must of miss read some of the instructions, I only got as far as getting the first plug out, I was sure I read you needed 4 cans of beer for each plug, any way I will have another go tomorrow when I can see straight.
Blah
Zealot
The Village Idiot
I could have sworn it was 5 cans... No wonder it didn't work for you!
