Just bought the R1. It was already having issues when I bought the thing. He had to charge the battery overnight to get it to start when I bought it.
How the heck do I use this battery charger?
- Thread starter lonesoldier84
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RJ2112
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Look at it this way, Lone..... you can't get any tickets on it, if you can't ride it.....:BLAA:
Oh I'll be riding it. And I think it might be a track only machine. Insurance is going to be crazy and I will be buying race fairings anyway. Changing back and forth between race trim and street trim will be annoying, and Ive got the FZ anyway.
Just needed a track bike so I got the R1. Even if I only ride it a handful of times during the summer on the street I'm not bothered.
But it WILL run!
Just needed a track bike so I got the R1. Even if I only ride it a handful of times during the summer on the street I'm not bothered.
But it WILL run!
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Most new chargers won't recoginze a battery if its below a certain voltage which is what yours sounds like...
You can try jumping the battery off a car battery (CAR NOT RUNNING-12 volts) to bump up the voltage if its not dead. If the bike starts, it has enough voltage. You can plug it in while running and it won't hurt anything...
Just make sure your hooked/plugged to the battery FIRST, before plugging into the wall. The fuse is in the permanent line as it would be routed in the bike and should the outside insulation wear off (due to a poor installation) and short out on the frame, the fuse will blow instead of the bike catching fire.
When using the jumpers/clips, everythings opened up and really not possible to short it out as its not routed/zip tied to anything..
As stated above their really fool proof.
If in doubt, hook up the charger to the car/known good battery, with the battery clip cables and see if it works... It it doesn't, the charger would be faulty...
Something not noted above, once you get the terminal screws off, clean the terminal and the wire ends. Then put dielectric grease on both ends of the cables/terminals and don't be stingy with it.. It'll prevent later possible corrosion.
BTW, a small piece of heat shrink placed under the square battery nut helps lift the nut making installing of the bolt (especially with accessory wire ends added) much easier...
You can try jumping the battery off a car battery (CAR NOT RUNNING-12 volts) to bump up the voltage if its not dead. If the bike starts, it has enough voltage. You can plug it in while running and it won't hurt anything...
Just make sure your hooked/plugged to the battery FIRST, before plugging into the wall. The fuse is in the permanent line as it would be routed in the bike and should the outside insulation wear off (due to a poor installation) and short out on the frame, the fuse will blow instead of the bike catching fire.
When using the jumpers/clips, everythings opened up and really not possible to short it out as its not routed/zip tied to anything..
As stated above their really fool proof.
If in doubt, hook up the charger to the car/known good battery, with the battery clip cables and see if it works... It it doesn't, the charger would be faulty...
Something not noted above, once you get the terminal screws off, clean the terminal and the wire ends. Then put dielectric grease on both ends of the cables/terminals and don't be stingy with it.. It'll prevent later possible corrosion.
BTW, a small piece of heat shrink placed under the square battery nut helps lift the nut making installing of the bolt (especially with accessory wire ends added) much easier...
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Hi, I don't believe we've met. I'm Lone, from SuperTech Auto.
Ok, so I can use the battery in my 2000 Pontiac Grand AM to boost the battery in my 2007 R1?
Please confirm and I will do that tonight.
The rest is very helpful too. I will do that.
Thanks.
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Yes, you can safely jump your 12 volt bike off a 12 volt car battery... MAKE SURE THE CAR IS NOT RUNNING or you will damage the electrics in the bike...
And your very welcome...
I don't think we've met, short of this forum, posts, etc... From where do you think?
I do design/manufacture brackets for helmet locks for most BMW's, some Ducati's, soon the Concours and all FJR's. Pirates Lair sells the BMW ones under "Easy helmet locks" http://pirateslair.net/HelmetlockS1000RR.htm. I'm a retired PO from here in Florida.
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Ok, here's the update. I have started the bike but it only runs when still connected to the car battery. It is idling now in the garage still connected to the car.
After two minutes of idle I disconnected it and tried starting it on its own. Nothing. Not a thing. Not even the dash lit up.
I will idle it for 10 mins or so and see what happens. Is this going to be enough juice for the digital multimeter to troubleshoot the stator/rectifier/regulator? Even if the dash won't light up on its own?
Edit:
same thing after 10-12 minute idle. The second I disconnect battery from the car the bike shuts off and is dead. No dash lighting up even.
What the hell's going on?
After two minutes of idle I disconnected it and tried starting it on its own. Nothing. Not a thing. Not even the dash lit up.
I will idle it for 10 mins or so and see what happens. Is this going to be enough juice for the digital multimeter to troubleshoot the stator/rectifier/regulator? Even if the dash won't light up on its own?
Edit:
same thing after 10-12 minute idle. The second I disconnect battery from the car the bike shuts off and is dead. No dash lighting up even.
What the hell's going on?
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What does the multimeter say when you put it on the battery?
dont have one yet
battery's probably toast.
will figure this out next week. im sure its just needing a new battery but im gonna troubleshoot the other stuff just in case.
battery's probably toast.
will figure this out next week. im sure its just needing a new battery but im gonna troubleshoot the other stuff just in case.
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if you don't have a multi meter, any automotive store, etc can check it for free. You need approx 12.5 volts out of that battery. You can also run a small 12 volt bulb with 2 leads accross the terminals, it should light if there's any voltage. I'm sure yours won't light a single bulb-dead battery...
If your dash lights, or anything else doesn't work and you fuses are good the battery does indeed sound toast.
When jumped, your bike is running off the car battery, probably charging, its just your battery isn't taking/keeping the charge.
As noted above, the battery is most likely toast... It could have an internal break as well (not un-common, no power whatsoever as its shorted out inside the case)
Once the bikes running on its own battery, a multmeter check should should about 14+ volts across the terminals (also out of the battery tender pigtail-if connected- the covered end is positive) at higher RPMs. The bikes charging as it should, you should be good to go...
Good luck..
If your dash lights, or anything else doesn't work and you fuses are good the battery does indeed sound toast.
When jumped, your bike is running off the car battery, probably charging, its just your battery isn't taking/keeping the charge.
As noted above, the battery is most likely toast... It could have an internal break as well (not un-common, no power whatsoever as its shorted out inside the case)
Once the bikes running on its own battery, a multmeter check should should about 14+ volts across the terminals (also out of the battery tender pigtail-if connected- the covered end is positive) at higher RPMs. The bikes charging as it should, you should be good to go...
Good luck..
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Thanks man. Electrical systems are a bit unknown to me beyond the most basic stuff so that is useful info for when I check it out.
:rof: :rof: :rof: :rof: :rof: :rof: :rof: :rof: aaahhhhhh go back and read page 3....... :thumbup: :thumbup:
