How long to charge battery RUNNING?

[CoolATIGuy]

It does both DC and AC btw, 400A and 40A for both options.

"Digital clamp-on ammeter. Measures AC/DC current up to 400 amps with 3.0 percent (VAC) accuracy without breaking the circuit. Also measures AC/DC voltage, resistance, frequency, capacitance, continuity and diode. Type K thermometer allows for surface or air temperature measurements. Display is an extra large 4000 count LCD screen. Also includes one-touch auto zero, belt holster, molded rubber holster, auto on/off, test leads and thermocouple. Category III - 600 volt."

 

[Motogiro]

It does both DC and AC btw, 400A and 40A for both options.

"Digital clamp-on ammeter. Measures AC/DC current up to 400 amps with 3.0 percent (VAC) accuracy without breaking the circuit. Also measures AC/DC voltage, resistance, frequency, capacitance, continuity and diode. Type K thermometer allows for surface or air temperature measurements. Display is an extra large 4000 count LCD screen. Also includes one-touch auto zero, belt holster, molded rubber holster, auto on/off, test leads and thermocouple. Category III - 600 volt."

Yeah. I was just reading about it. It got some bad reviews for QC and failure but I have a Sears right near me and I think it's a good price. I'm getting one especially since I do a little wrenching.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Put the bike on the tender yesterday until it showed steady green (fully charged and maintaining). Tested, bike was showing 13.03v when off and key out, around 5pm. Took off the tender.

Tested again this morning around 11am, had not been started/key was out/had not been on tender, bike showed 12.79v.

Tested again just now around 7:30pm, showing 12.80v.

I guess I'll test it over the next few days and see how it looks. If it holds a charge for a few days or a week maybe I'm ok.

Funny thing, I just saw a guy at work walk by with an ammeter in his hand! I mentioned it to him, he being much more electrically experienced than I, and he said he'll help me test the bike the next time I roll up there.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

So bad news, had not died the past month, but just went out this morning to start and it acted like the battery was dead again, barely even tried to turn over. I even put it on the trickle charger just a few days ago, and let it charge until it said it was fully charged and just being maintained.

So sometimes it will drain in just a couple days time, and sometimes it will be fine. I'm not sure if the cold weather triggers something that's making it drain, or if something else is bad (r/r, stator). Already put the new battery in it.

Ugh....

 

[CoolATIGuy]

I even plugged it into the battery tender this evening (Battery Tender Jr), and let it sit until it showed solid green (fully charged/monitoring battery state). Battery voltage showed ~12.97v with key off. Simply turning the key on though (before even starting the bike), voltage quickly drops down...it hit 12.16v and I stopped watching, it may have kept going.

Trying to start the bike it barely tries to turn over and all but gives up, even after sitting on the battery tender until it says it's full. It is 32f out, but if it's charged to almost 13v and the battery tender says it's topped off, why would the voltage drop so low simply by turning the power on? Is that a symptom of a bad r/r?

 

[Motogiro]

I even plugged it into the battery tender this evening (Battery Tender Jr), and let it sit until it showed solid green (fully charged/monitoring battery state). Battery voltage showed ~12.97v with key off. Simply turning the key on though (before even starting the bike), voltage quickly drops down...it hit 12.16v and I stopped watching, it may have kept going.

Trying to start the bike it barely tries to turn over and all but gives up, even after sitting on the battery tender until it says it's full. It is 32f out, but if it's charged to almost 13v and the battery tender says it's topped off, why would the voltage drop so low simply by turning the power on? Is that a symptom of a bad r/r?

If you've fully charged the battery and it's behaving this way, the battery is done. This would have showed up long ago with a load test. Go get a new battery! Make sure you put your tender on your new battery before installing it. It may take a few hours to fully charge. I would do this with any new battery, AGM, lead acid etc. before putting in service.
Keep us posted!

 

[Data]

32 degrees ? I suspect temperature induced problems more than battery problems. Where do you live? How long do you ride the bike on an average ride ? What weight oil are you using ?

If it was 32 degrees when you tried to start the bike, what was the temp an hour or two before that ?

 

[Motogiro]

32 degrees ? I suspect temperature induced problems more than battery problems. Where do you live? How long do you ride the bike on an average ride ? What weight oil are you using ?

If it was 32 degrees when you tried to start the bike, what was the temp an hour or two before that ?

There's an entire scenario that has led up to this battery failure. Although temps do play a roll it sounds like he has a battery with no depth of charge.

He's outside of Nashville.

 

[Data]

There's an entire scenario that has led up to this battery failure. Although temps do play a roll it sounds like he has a battery with no depth of charge.

He's outside of Nashville.

Agreed- temperature shouldn't be much of a factor around Nashville.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

The only way to get it started now is to either bump start it or jump it from another battery (with car turned off). Even the battery tender left on until it says fully charged does nothing anymore.

I took it by the mechanic again today and left it with them. I told them to keep it for a week if they have to, just don't give it back until they figure it out. I do not want to keep riding in fear that if I drop the clutch or have to stop for gas, that I'm out of luck getting going again.

On the way to the mechanic, the orange engine trouble warning light kept going on and off. Guess it was telling me the battery was flat.

Weird thing is I was having trouble with the old battery too, which is why I replaced it. Would love it to be a battery issue and just swap it out for a free replacement since I've already bought it, as long as that's what it really is...

I did have the battery load tested at Pepboys on their machine (which they said load-tests it) - they weren't sure which setting to put it on, so one test said it was bad and another said it was good.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Maybe the battery is bad, but something on the bike killed the old one and then also killed the new one, so replacing again will just kill that one?

Would a bad battery show proper voltage when "fully charged" and also show strong cold cranking amps, and still not be holding a depth of charge? Is that possible?

 

[Motogiro]

You could have a bad regulator rectifier which could alsocause a parasitic drain.

I'm not suspecting the stator because when you're running the bike it's charging and started shortly after running it. The stator is also behind the rectifier/regulator and the battery should not see the stator. If you do have a drain it could be through the regulator shunt or a leaky rectifier diode. Not saying you shouldn't test all of the charging system but going on the info you've given I would say a bad battery and it needs to be checked for a parasitic leak.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Finally got the bike back to the mechanic, they tested the charging system components (again), everything checked out fine. They charged up the battery, showed full, but when on a load test...needle smacked down. Even at 11 amp hours, they said it wouldn't pull. It would also say it was fully recharged about 15 min later - so it wasn't getting any depth of charge..

They popped a charged Western Power Sports battery in, left it for 3-4 days, came back and started right up. I've ridden it for several days and always fires up right away.

Took the Batteries Plus battery back (which had cost me about $10 more than the WPS battery the motorcycle shop put in), explained the issues I'd encountered since the 1st day I went out to ride the bike after buying the battery (just 3 days after purchasing), and got a full refund (which was nice, being 3 months later).

So I think we're golden now (knock on wood)...thanks everyone ESP Moto for all the forbearance!! I didn't think a brand new battery would be bad esp. since the bike with the old battery was dying too, but I guess the old battery was going out and I just had the unfortunate luck of getting a dud new one too. Hopefully 3rd times a charm.


Thanks! ~ CoolATIGuy

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Just an update, over a month later and no problems since. So looks like was just a fluke new but dead battery. wooot

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just a quick note (if not already addressed).

When putting in a NEW battery (not lithium), they SHOULD be CHARGED on a charger to 100% BEFORE being put into service.

That alone is recommended by most manufacturers and WILL EXTEND THE LIFE OF THE BATTERY.. :thumbup:


Congrates on the easy fix CoolATIguy too!