Help with lights..

[H8 PVMT]

damn it I need some help please. How do I explain this....I replaced my stock turn signals with a set of LED signals and they were bright but not as bright as they should have been and when I turned on the left or right signal they didn't really blink, they just looked like running lights with a slight blink (they double as running lights)

Later I decided to install another (additional) set of turn signals in the cowl of the bike. I spliced the wires but installed a regular bulb rather than a LED so now I have a regular bulb and a LED. When I did that I lost the running lights but then the lights began to actually blink and they were bright.

I bought some led bulbs to replace the non LED bulbs and I replaced one side and I got the running lights back but again the original turn signal won't blink again.

as it stands.

A) regular bulb and LED signals = no running lights but blinks great

B) LED bulb and LED signals = running lights but not a great blink with the original signal (the LED replacement bulb blinks great)

One more thing, the signals have 3 wires the 'bulb' I added only has 2 wires. I did install some type of resistor along with the 3 wires.

Any ideas on what the hell to do? I'd like running lights and great blinking call me crazy.

 

[wrightme43]

REMOVE everything you added.
LEDS the extra lights and go back to stock.

Thats my advice.

Then post some links to what you have to install and where they are going. Then people can help you.
Right now no one has a base line to help with your problems.

 

[sportrider]

you may have crossed your ground wire with the marker light wire.

 

[bd43]

IMO, I think the reason they don’t work is LED’s have very low current draw. Most everyday run-of-the-mill flashers require a certain amount of current consumption to create the heat necessary to cause thermal metal disc in the flasher to flip causing the lights to go off, then when cooled cause the disc to pop back closing the circuit to create heat to flip again, and then on and on until the flasher is turned off manually. This is why when one flasher light bulb burns out in your car, the flasher doesn’t work or stay solid because the total current load on the disc has dropped indicating to the driver that one of the lights is burnt out. Kind of neat when you don’t periodically check for burn-outs. Not great for those of use wanting to use LED’s. The Superbrightleds website kind of explains this a little.

Superbrightleds.com - Important Car Bulb Information

That’s what I know.

 

[bikerider]

My LEDs have 2 wires. The bike has 3. I went on a long ride yesterday (300 miles. Sweet) but now my front left turn signal isnt working. I looked and 2 wires are just floating. The black and blue. The brown is connected. I didnt install these so i dont know what is what. What does each one do? which ones needs to be connected together?
Thanks
:Sport:

 

[reiobard]

IMO, I think the reason they don’t work is LED’s have very low current draw. Most everyday run-of-the-mill flashers require a certain amount of current consumption to create the heat necessary to cause thermal metal disc in the flasher to flip causing the lights to go off, then when cooled cause the disc to pop back closing the circuit to create heat to flip again, and then on and on until the flasher is turned off manually. This is why when one flasher light bulb burns out in your car, the flasher doesn’t work or stay solid because the total current load on the disc has dropped indicating to the driver that one of the lights is burnt out. Kind of neat when you don’t periodically check for burn-outs. Not great for those of use wanting to use LED’s. The Superbrightleds website kind of explains this a little.

Superbrightleds.com - Important Car Bulb Information

That’s what I know.

usually you can just get a resistor to put in line with the lights to make them work properly, seeing as the cot of a resistor is about $ .01 i am not sure why the lighting companies that put out LED's haven't started adding them...

 

[soul2coal]

Here is my opion, without looking at the schematic, I believe the reason your new LED's have three wires is because it is a dual filament light. You have the ability to run the light as a signal and also as a running light, therefore you need two power leads. The one lead will be for the signal, the other will be for the running light ( probably constant power, providing the key is on). As for the dim blinking, I looked in a J&P Cycle catalog, and they sell a Dual Load Equalizer, which according to the catalog, "When changing to LED turn signals, a load equalizer is the solution when your new lights either flash too quickly, or maybe just won't flash at all. 12-volt compact unit comes complete with wiring instructions." P#340-300 Dual Load Equalizer...$17.99 1-800-318-6847
WWW. JPCYCLES.COM


Maybe this will help, maybe I'm way off base. Just my two cents. Matt