Gas / Fuel Tank removal

[Ryan T]

A good write up and it works well. However, I like removing the side fairings better.

Remove the two hex bolts on each side and the two at the front of the tank
Pull the fairing out a touch
Side the side fairing back and up to remove
Lift tank and support with rope that you can attach to rear

Seems that it all depends on the individual on how they approach lifting the tank. I can say this, either way, be careful.

 

[kellymcc]

Thank you very much for taking the time to explain and pics. You made my expericence a lot more enjoyable!!!!
Kelly ;^)

 

[deeptekkie]

I just wanted to thank you for your very informative thread, (and pics), here. Today I used your method, right down to using a wine bottle as a scotch, (?), and it made a dreaded job very easy. (I went in and removed tons of slack throttle cable on the lower end) Total runtime was about half an hour! Thank you very much!

 

[Speedo007]

Just bought the bike 2 days ago, this morning battery was dead. The guy that had it kept it in a heated garage, I have it in a shed (probably -5C last night). Now I want to lift the tank but am wondering how high I can lift the front of the tank without fuel lines disconnecting underneath, would hate to see gas all over the place. Thanks!

 

[extreme601]

I did this just the other day. You can see and feel the cables pulling tight under the tank, you'll know when to stop before putting any pressure on them.

I got my tank up about 20 degrees off vertical, plenty of space to work underneath

 

[Speedo007]

Finally since I had other maintenance scheduled on the bike, I simply started it on compression in 2nd gear (cause in 1st gear the wheel would lock up). So oil change, possibly new battery, prestone, and 2 Michelin pilot road 2 tires and it should be like brand new.

 

[FinalImpact]

You can now freely lift up the front of the tank, using the rear bolt as a hinge.
Use any object to hold the tank in upright position(I found that a wine bottle is perfect ):

Top view:

Reverse process to put the tank back in place.
Pay attention when you put the tank back down that you don squeeze any of the hoses under the tank.

When removing the clamps in the end, place a plastic bucket under them to catch any residue the might have build up in the hoses:

The whole process takes about 15 minutes once you get a hold of it.
I know it can seem like many steps, but just take your time, and be sure not to forget any, and anybody can do this.

Fz6Sa,
Do you mind inserting these pictures from this thread in here so this doesn't happen to anyone else? Tubes are really long and can be kinked easily! Your thread is a very good guide! nice Work!

Thanks!

http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/36794-fuel-tank-dont-kink-hoses-w-pics.html

 

[tcmalker]

A good write up and it works well. However, I like removing the side fairings better.

Remove the two hex bolts on each side and the two at the front of the tank
Pull the fairing out a touch
Side the side fairing back and up to remove
Lift tank and support with rope that you can attach to rear

Seems that it all depends on the individual on how they approach lifting the tank. I can say this, either way, be careful.

Again, good write up BUT I think it might be better to remove the inner fairings. And here's why....

Let's say for some reason or another, you need to let the tank down. You CAN'T do it with the inner fairing still on. Also, what if your wine bottle (or anything you used to prop up the tank) broke? It would come down and damage the inner fairing.

The time it takes to take the inner fairing off is not that much more (or is it less??) than the time to take the rear bolt off,lift and slide the tank, & reinsert bolt. Same putting it back. Also it's probably a safer operation especially if you don't have someone helping you hold up tank. Hope that made sense.

 

[Norbert]

sticky me!:cheer:

 

[farmhand15]

Hello, I'm new to the forum, but not to motorcycles. I just bought an '08 FZ6 to keep my DL650 company in the garage. I'd rather completely remove the fuel tank, so I can more easily service everything, run wires for heated grips, etc. I have it all cut loose but the large fuel supply line, and I'm having a little trouble figuring out how to release the fitting at the tank. Is there anyone that can help me with that? Thanks in advance, and I'm looking forward to joining you here. Syd:thumbup:

 

[farmhand15]

Well, I didn't get any response here, so I figured it out myself. First, I found the link provided below to a site where I downloaded a shop manual for my FZ6 for the staggering sum of $4.75. In describing the removal of the fuel tank, it divulged the (probably obvious) secret of removing the fuel line from the tank. There is a plastic retainer clip which has to be pulled downward to release and expose the fitting. From that point, it's a simple matter of pinching the two gray clips (spring loaded) on either side, and removing the fuel line. There was a loss of about 4 drops of fuel in the process, and the tank probably had about a gallon and a half in it.

The first thing I did was remove all three bolts holding the tank on, and then I propped up the rear of the tank with a short 2x4 block standing on edge. The tank is actually quite stable sitting in that position. I then used blue painters masking tape and a magic marker to mark all lines and wiring plugs before removing. Knowing what I have learned will allow me to do this again in about fifteen minutes. Now my tank is propped up at a 30 degree angle with the front facing down, and resting on cardboard on the shop floor. I'd MUCH prefer to work unobstructed by the tank, and it will make things much easier to install a fuse block, relay, heated grips, gps hook up, etc. Syd


Sell Files Online: Affiliate Program, Software Downloads, Digital Downloads

 

[pookamatic]

Awesome write up. I like farmhand's thinking about having nothing (especially as precious as the tank) in the way. Battery tender and air filter are getting installed/serviced soon. Time will tell if I prop or pull off completely. One question:

What about fuel level in tank? Is there an amount that makes is messy/easier/impossible without spilling for either method (prop/remove)?

Naturally, dry would be best. Just curious if I and future readers should not attempt above x%. I'm at 120 tank miles and 2 bars remaining.

 

[FinalImpact]

Awesome write up. I like farmhand's thinking about having nothing (especially as precious as the tank) in the way. Battery tender and air filter are getting installed/serviced soon. Time will tell if I prop or pull off completely. One question:

What about fuel level in tank? Is there an amount that makes is messy/easier/impossible without spilling for either method (prop/remove)?

Naturally, dry would be best. Just curious if I and future readers should not attempt above x%. I'm at 120 tank miles and 2 bars remaining.

I've propped it up on the rear pivot with a 90% full and it leaked a little out the over-flow. At 1/2 tank I've done the same and had no leaks at all. As said empty is best but down as low is possible is best.

 

[blastoff]

Thread from the dead!!!

Anybody have some photos to go with this, perchance? Visual learner here. ;-)

 

[FinalImpact]

Since it's so often discussed on this forum, I figured I would post a how to on removing/lifting the tank without removing the fairings.
All pictures are from a 2006 model.

Ok; here we go:

First of all, here's what you will need to complete the process:

1 Allen key (5mm), 1 Flange key(?) 10mm, a pair of clamps:
(I also use an extension piece but that is not needed)

First we have to make sure we don't spill any fuel, so we have to block 2 overflow fuel hoses.
Both hoses are found under the bike, right side, where the center stand is mounted.
The can be identified by the white stripe on them, and the facts that they are cut of in an angle:

To block them off, we are going to use the clamps:

First bend the hose:

Then apply clamp:

Repeat on both hoses:

This might work - I'll see if a mod with more power can fix the OP!
Give them some time.

Unless you have a specific question....

 

[FinalImpact]

Having both hoses securely clamped up (If you have any doubt, place a plastic bucket under them),
we can now remove the bolts holding the tank:

First the front ones:

Make sure you cover the tank with a piece of cloth before unscrewing the bolts! (Protect if from scratches):

Proceed to remove both front bolts in same manner. Once removed you should have two bolts with spacers:

Now, for the rear bolt. To access it you have to remove the seat first:

Again, cover the tank with cloth before using tools:

You should by now have removed these 3 bolts:

Another...#2

 

[FinalImpact]

By now you can lift up the rear of the tank, while sliding it backwards.
Don't lift to high, just enough to get it over the bracket where the rear bolt was mounted:

Allowing the tank to rest on top of the rear bolt bracket, make sure is been moved enough backwards for the front of the tank to clear the fairing:

Now lift the front of the tank so its over the fairing, and slide the tank forward again, until the rear bracket is in the correct position again.
Then rest the front of the tank on the fairing (Use some cloth between the fairing and the tank):

Now reinsert the rear bolt (no need to tighten it, just "finger-screw" it in:

You can now freely lift up the front of the tank, using the rear bolt as a hinge.
Use any object to hold the tank in upright position(I found that a wine bottle is perfect ):

Top view:

Reverse process to put the tank back in place.
Pay attention when you put the tank back down that you don squeeze any of the hoses under the tank.

When removing the clamps in the end, place a plastic bucket under them to catch any residue the might have build up in the hoses:

The whole process takes about 15 minutes once you get a hold of it.
I know it can seem like many steps, but just take your time, and be sure not to forget any, and anybody can do this.

There ya go. I'll delete these if OP's gets fixed.

 

[deeptekkie]

Just finished removing my 5 1/2 year old battery, (which still cranked the Fazer but turned it VERY SLOWLY), using these instructions: http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-to-s-/12650-gas-fuel-tank-removal.html
from our coveted friend here. (I drained my tank so I didn't have to use the clamps) The old battery came out unbelievably easy.
I'm picking up the new one tomorrow. (I called ahead and asked them to put it on a charger today)
My old battery served me well. While it never had a battery tender on it I did keep a light bulb burning down underneath the battery area around the headers. (Must have worked, huh?)
I do think that when I reinstall the new battery I will add a couple of wires, (one of them fused), to easily use a battery tender in the future during cold winters.
Y'all take care!