FZ6 Sputtering and stalling

[ceaserleo]

Any tips on removing these plugs easily? I’m unplugging the power commander... the mystery wire does not come from the power commander.... so I have no clue what it’s for... I have a battery tender and it’s not for that either... that’s the only other thing that’s not stock from my understanding...I also included photos of the exhaust...

 

[ceaserleo]

Been thinking it over and I’m wondering if the mystery cut wire is from where an aftermarket gear indicator was before. The wire was found under the triple tree... by front fender...

 

[ceaserleo]

YES the mystery wire is almost 99.9% surely from an aftermarket gear indicator that used to be installed. Minus the display at the end that either got cut off or torn off. Look at the photos below!! Has the same (idk if it’s a molex but looks like one) connection and the same red and green wire!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Post #41, pic # 33769CC7-40AA-4 looks like a factory plug...

Post #41, the other pic's, I don't even see any wires...

Post #43, agreed with your assessment . Where do those lines go, to the O2 sensor and trigger?
If so, LOOSE EM...

.

 

[ceaserleo]

what do i do? cut them off and cover with electrical tape??

 

[Gary in NJ]

Yeah, the header pipe is stock for sure. If you also have a cat, you don’t need that power controller.

 

[Gary in NJ]

So, how does the power controller get wired in? Does it use splice connectors or are things soldiered in?

 

[ceaserleo]

the

So, how does the power controller get wired in? Does it use splice connectors or are things soldiered in?

the power connector is out already. it was just connected to a few plugs. which i imagine are for the ecu.
the 2 thin red and green wires i need to remove still are from an aftermarket gear indicator that was removed. they are "spliced" into the connection for the O2 sensor and the trigger.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Then yes, fold the wire onto itself, put some heat shrink over the wire and zip tie it secure.

 

[DeepBarney]

Liquid electrical tape works well for sealing up spots where wires were tapped into (like with that red scotchlok connector you showed a picture of) and you can't use heat shrink without cutting the wire and then splicing it back. Dab of that followed by some regular electric tape once it's cured and it'll be sealed up tight as a duck's butt.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you have access to the liquid tape, agreed above, it'd be the best / neatest "sealer".



.

 

[DeepBarney]

Most Ace hardware stores have it, I'd be surprised if any of the other big box stores didn't. Otherwise a dedicated electrical supply shop will have it.

 

[ceaserleo]

Okay gentleman im here ready to seal up lose ends on the extra wiring. The bike runs fine now BUT I had to leave this brown connector disconnected for it to start. It has what remains from the “mystery” aftermarket gear indicator wire spliced to it..I was wondering what the brown wire goes too, it plugs into bike right behind the rear brake and I have circled it in the photos below. I tried looking at diagrams but can’t really make it out. What’s the proper way to revert the wire back to its old self ? Simply remove the red clamp/aftermarket wire and tape it up ?

 

[ceaserleo]

Okay gentleman im here ready to seal up lose ends on the extra wiring. The bike runs fine now BUT I had to leave this brown connector disconnected for it to start. It has what remains from the “mystery” aftermarket gear indicator wire spliced to it..I was wondering what the brown wire goes too, it plugs into bike right behind the rear brake and I have circled it in the photos below. I tried looking at diagrams but can’t really make it out. What’s the proper way to revert the wire back to its old self ? Simply remove the red clamp/aftermarket wire and tape it up ?

Actually I found out it’s the rear brake sensor, if I have to start the bike with out the rear brake sensor in should I just buy a replacement one ??

 

[DeepBarney]

Rear brake sensor shouldn't keep you from starting. The red clamp should be removed and as long as the the inner wires aren't severed you can just seal it back up. That line was tapped into so the gear indicator would have switched power (aka power when the key switch was on). Unless there's a fault to ground in that line you shouldn't be seeing it effect the rest of the system, and even then I don't think it should keep you from starting the bike as long as the battery is charged.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That is actually you REAR BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. Should be just TWO wires and nothing piggy backed off it.

Should look like the below.

To adjust(if the light comes on too soon, or too late), there's a larger plastic nut. You'd adjust that tighter or looser moving the switch. The small spring takes up excess play so the switch isn't pulled excessively.

As DB posted, remove the piggy backed wire and seal the factory wire..

 

[trepetti]

I appreciate the info guys, really. I would also like to just remove the after market wiring and power commander just to take Out another variable. But I don’t know what is and isnt oem. Also those two connections (o2 sensor and the other one included in photos above) go directly to the bike from the cut wire. So I can remove it im sure but don’t know what wire to run to them instead... if I even have the wires since the aftermarket ones are installed. Is the fuse box you recommended really worth it ? Where could I buy a reliable wiring harness and lastly a good informative video for explanations...

Regarding the fuse box, it is the BEST way to add electrical things to the bike. By hooking it to the battery and tapping a wire that is switched hot, you can add up to 6 electrical fused electrical connections, each of which can either be always hot (my battery tender connection) or hot only with the bike running (my USB and plug for my heated gear). Look at these pictures from my thread when I first installed it. https://www.600riders.com/threads/winter-project-finished.58258/ Whenever I need to add another connection, I just run the hot and ground to the box.

I don't need to tell you how frustrating is it to troubleshoot a history of reckless electrical connections. When things are done neat and orderly, it makes things more reliable and should problems arise, easy to troubleshoot.

Once you get through your problems sorted out, I encourage you to reassemble things with a fuse box.