FZ6 S2 2008 TRUE Y PIPE TO STRAIGHT PIPE CHERRBOMB/GLASSPACKS EXHAUST (stock cover)

[sinistro789]

Hey there guys needing some help. I am attempting to straight pipe FZ6 S2 with Y pipe and cherry bombs / glasspacks so that it has optimal flow vs stock nd gives that real deep growl like F1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzDICX_sG8Y @ 2 mins

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc2iRsrFgt4 SOUND OF FORMULA 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSChyRtcVAE R6 DUAL CHERRYBOMB




I have drilled out baffles with the biggest drill bit that would fit, i would say certainly much better than stock when broken in, but not even close to some the nice ones like the GPR ghost and some custom made exhausts that i have seen.

I have seen videos of bikes which use just the simple straight pipes. Better breathing and somewhat improved sound , but makes it sound much too tinny for my liking

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8b9f8TTXTs GPR ghost


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSUfNuKjoCE - FZ6 WITH JUST 1 GLASS PACK

Which is when i thought of the mid sized CHERRYBOMBS or GLASSPACKS which will give it that real deep throaty growl and could potentially benifit a perfomance improvement w/ PCIII and tune
pe
ive seen loads of videos of custom systems that sound way better than many aftermarket kits. i think its much up to the Y attatchment and the shape where extra power can be gained

Figured that 12 inch or 9 inch glasspacks/cherrybomb would fit perfectly with a true Y pipe attachement leading up to it. possibly change the the

possible ideas?

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was thinking of widening the pipe out from 1.75 inch to to 2.25 using a reducer adapter so that it would be wider opening for better breathig and perfomrmance

and then using another pair of wielded on reducers so that the cut tips can fit out of the stock cover (back to 1.75 inch) , similar to stock outlets but wider. then to secure it was planning to use the stock fittings from the original exhaust and some springs for any additional vibration dampening .

was more or less planning to use this essential idea used phrank2k11 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YApdvcg0uU8

but the stock shroud fitting is essential

anybody on here done this mod before or similar ? just wondering know what the best measurements might be for this project?


Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated on this 1
cant wait to get this thing breathing fire

 

[sinistro789]

Hey guys needing some help. I am attempting to straight pipe FZ6 S2 with Y pipe and cherry bombs / glasspack cans so that it flowsmuch better vs stock nd gives that real deep growl like F1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzDICX_sG8Y @ 2 mins

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc2iRsrFgt4 SOUND OF FORMULA 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSChyRtcVAE R6 WITH DUAL CHERRYBOMB




I have drilled out baffles with the biggest drill bit that would fit, i would say certainly much better than stock when broken in, but not even close to some the nice ones like the GPR ghost and some custom made exhausts that i have seen.

I have seen videos of bikes which use just the simple straight pipes. Better breathing and somewhat improved sound , but I think it makes it sound much too tinny for my liking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8b9f8TTXTs GPR ghost what a sound


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSUfNuKjoCE - FZ6 WITH JUST 1 GLASS PACK

Which is when i thought of the mid sized CHERRYBOMBS or GLASSPACKS which will give it that real deep throaty growl and could potentially benifit a perfomance improvement w/ PCIII and KN filter nd tune

ive seen loads of videos of custom systems that sound way better than many aftermarket kits. i think its much up to the overall diameter of Y attatchment where extra power can be gained

Figured that 12 inch or 9 inch glasspacks/cherrybomb would fit perfectly with a true Y pipe attachement leading up to it. possibly change the the

Y pipe
13 inch cherry bomb dual


was thinking of widening the pipe out from 1.75 inch to to 2.25 using a reducer adapter so it would be breathing better

and then using another pair of weilded on reducers so that the cut tips can fit out of the stock cover (back to 1.75 inch) , similar to stock outlets but wider. then to secure it was planning to use the stock fittings from the original exhaust and some springs for any additional vibration dampening .



I am thinking of using to use the same essential idea did phrank2k11 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YApdvcg0uU8

but the stock shroud fitting is essential

anyone done this before? any ideas the best what the best measurements might be for this??

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated on this 1

thanks in advance guys

cant wait to get this thing breathing fire BRAPP lol :spank:

 

[FinalImpact]

Hey, I merged your threads.

Honestly, I set out to do this and another member lost the battle against gravity (bike totaled) so I bought his ceramic coated 2Bro....

Be the first! Hint: if the outlets are about 1.25" but less than 1.50" it will keep the velocity of the hot gasses up and sound better. To big and it gets raspy as the sound is bouncing without real direction towards the outlet.

 

[lawlberg]

Hey, I merged your threads.

Honestly, I set out to do this and another member lost the battle against gravity (bike totaled) so I bought his ceramic coated 2Bro....

Be the first! Hint: if the outlets are about 1.25" but less than 1.50" it will keep the velocity of the hot gasses up and sound better. To big and it gets raspy as the sound is bouncing without real direction towards the outlet.

I've gone down the path, decided not to do the dual for simplicity at the time, I'd say without gutting your under-seat you'll run into issues with space for a factory Y or h pipe, I wound up going with a bent 1.75" from the Mid-Pipe to a JonesGlasspack (off of Summit) I think it was either 11-14 inches. It was super raspy and I didn't really like the sound. It did look pretty stealth, because I was able to hide it completely up underneath the seat, however I wound up melting my rear turn signals off from the hot gasses. Tried a bit with adding a baffle to it, wasn't really pleased with the performance/noise ratio.

Since then, I've become a better welder, and my last attempt at it was dual underbike cans, coming off an R6S header. That actually has worked very well, and I'm pleased with it. The header was a 4-2-1 pipe, I took it back to the area where it was 2, then added two chambered round mufflers that I opened up and packed with steel wool as insulation. Welded it all together, sounded great that night, on the way to work the next day I decided to use my bike for some hunting, so it's been out of commission for a while. The Welds held, I think I like the sound and look, I'll grab some pictures for you later and talk in more detail about that. Performance wise, I've probably done damage to the scavenging effects that make our engines work the most efficient, and [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] will have engineering words for me, but I like the way it looks and sounds, and the performance didn't feel that bad in comparison.

 

[agf]

Sorry this is little bit of a thread jack but it seems like it relates to the string:
I'm hoping to re pack my Delks this weekend and have heaps of woven glass and also some stainless steel wool.
anyone know the pros/cons of using both/either, how long each will last, and which will soften the sound enough?

 

[FinalImpact]

Fiber glass will reflect less sound at the expense of longevity. SS reflects more but handles the heat and flow better. That said, making it more humble may require repacking more often.
I know the glass is rated to twice that of the exhausts temp but it does wear and degrade.... Its why the oem used chambered baffles to drop the velocity and let out those tiny holes - no wearing materials to replace!

 

[motojoe122]

FZ6 S2 2008 TRUE Y PIPE TO STRAIGHT PIPE CHERRBOMB/GLASSPACKS EXHAUST (stock...

Sorry this is little bit of a thread jack but it seems like it relates to the string:
I'm hoping to re pack my Delks this weekend and have heaps of woven glass and also some stainless steel wool.
anyone know the pros/cons of using both/either, how long each will last, and which will soften the sound enough?

FI found this kit for me on Ebay when I repacked my LV carbon exhaust. I ordered 2 kits and had plenty left over. The sound was a lot meaner than the fiberglass packing, but I really like it now. Research what size and diameter rivets are required, LV suggested stainless steel, as aluminum would fatigue.


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[agf]

Re: FZ6 S2 2008 TRUE Y PIPE TO STRAIGHT PIPE CHERRBOMB/GLASSPACKS EXHAUST (stock...

FI found this kit for me on Ebay when I repacked my LV carbon exhaust. I ordered 2 kits and had plenty left over. The sound was a lot meaner than the fiberglass packing, but I really like it now. Research what size and diameter rivets are required, LV suggested stainless steel, as aluminum would fatigue.


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That kit looks really good. I think that ss mesh would be greta to help the packing, unfortunately my s/s is more like steel wool , I might try an inere layer of the wool near the center of the can and the glass arond the outer layers. I got ally rivets but I know that they will need to be watched and replaced as needed, and I might need to re do the packing if it doesnt give me the desired result. I saw a yiut tube clip that watalking about wrapping the glass with masking tape to help getting it all back into can, so I'm thinking that tight packing is the go even tho' a loose pack would prob absorb more noise( and shorten the life of the packing) ah decisions decisions.
Think I'll suck it n see.

 

[motojoe122]

Yeah, it comes with two types of steel wool. I used the glass outer layer that was stock with the cans and used masking tape. I love the exhaust, but I'm getting scorpions next time around just for their never having to repack warranty.


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[FinalImpact]

Per PM requests.... Pictures....
I'm not sure want you want to see as its all just pipes...

My first test was Stock S2 header and DeCAT to 2Bro Cans where I welded in a section and ran that for a couple years.

Then I swapped to an S1 header and made another mid pipe but shorter from an S2 CAT. Still into 2Bro cans. I prefer the OEM style coupler and mounts. Its just better stuff than the aftermarket world.

 

[sinistro789]

hey finnal impact. i really appreciate you going in on that last reply. certainly nice and shiny them headers hahah lucky you done a gr8 job there bro. nd also from you @lawlbeg very informative info. i was wondering man what the measurements of that de-cat pipe that coming directly from the headers? the length of the straight part and the angle and length of the kink part?? will take it to be done wielded at CYBOX exhausts local to me. not really sure where to go in terms on cans . glasspacks arent that easy come by in UK, i know the measurements that i will use will be around 12-14 inches, overall length of each can. i have seen the jones ones online from USA but the post cost of the post outweighs the cost and probably the durability of fiber glass. I am considering just having straight through Y pipe thats 2.5 inches diam that run all the way from headers. using a slightly heavier thicker 304 maybe 2 mm aluminum , hopefully leading to a deeper less tinny sound. Upon reaching the outlets use a couple of reducer adapter cut into muffler tips that will fit in through with the stock exhaust shroud. will be getting K and N air filter hopefully that should work well in conjunction

The diameter of the pipe leading from the headers id 45 mm or 1.75 inches am i right? iv also got other ideas similar to GPR style exhaust also

any advice woud be greatly appreciated :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Sorry i dont know the angle or length on the mid-pipe. No help there. The 1.75" OD sounds about right tho. Follow the link up there. Im sure its posted in the main thread.

FWIW; the S2 O2 sensor is a common thread @ 18 X 1.5 mm if anyone needs to buy SS bung.

 

[lawlberg]

hey finnal impact. i really appreciate you going in on that last reply. certainly nice and shiny them headers hahah lucky you done a gr8 job there bro. nd also from you @lawlbeg very informative info. i was wondering man what the measurements of that de-cat pipe that coming directly from the headers? the length of the straight part and the angle and length of the kink part?? will take it to be done wielded at CYBOX exhausts local to me. not really sure where to go in terms on cans . glasspacks arent that easy come by in UK, i know the measurements that i will use will be around 12-14 inches, overall length of each can. i have seen the jones ones online from USA but the post cost of the post outweighs the cost and probably the durability of fiber glass. I am considering just having straight through Y pipe thats 2.5 inches diam that run all the way from headers. using a slightly heavier thicker 304 maybe 2 mm aluminum , hopefully leading to a deeper less tinny sound. Upon reaching the outlets use a couple of reducer adapter cut into muffler tips that will fit in through with the stock exhaust shroud. will be getting K and N air filter hopefully that should work well in conjunction

The diameter of the pipe leading from the headers id 45 mm or 1.75 inches am i right? iv also got other ideas similar to GPR style exhaust also

any advice woud be greatly appreciated :thumbup:

Here's the mufflers I used, when I packed them (Cut open with an angle grinder, stuffed them full of packing material, then welded them back up) Flo-Pro 3300 Muffler Turbo Pack

I've been able to get a good sound out of them, they're a bit loud, but with a bit more baffling, I think you'll be happy. Certainly quieter than glasspacks.

Images of the test fit, not welded or packed at this point, it sits up a little bit straighter the way I have it installed.



The oil slick on the driveway was from a valve adjustment job I had just finished, my seals are still pretty good.

 

[agf]

So I finally got around to getting the Delks off and checking how the packing was going.

After I initially installed them with baffles in, I read a thread about welding a collar onto the baffle to force all exhaust gas through it. I don't have access to a gas axe so I just wrapped glass packing around the baffle and it was pretty successful for at least 12 months. You can see in the pic that my wrapping is a bit agricultural but it worked. It was starting to get pretty throaty so I decided to open up a can and you can see by that pic that the glass on the inner surface is blackened but the glass near the out wall is pristine.
My solution was to just put the cap back onto the can, wrap new glass around the baffle and then pack some stainless steel exhaust packing back into the centre of the baffle. The sound is still there without being too loud. Somewhere between the two would be perfect but I won't bother revisiting it for at least a year now unless the sound goes off.

Hope this is helpful

 

[agf]

The tone is still very nice, not enough to annoy neighbours, but enoughto let folks know I'm there if I let the revs go over5K
I dont need to revosit fir at leatanother 6 months

 

[agf]

The tone is still very nice, not enough to annoy neighbours, but enoughto let folks know I'm there if I let the revs go over5K
I dont need to revisit for at least another 6 months

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

For the OP, as an FYI, in your FIRST video, your MISSING your right side engine to frame mounting bolt..