FZ6 Clutch Rebuild

[ChanceCoats123]

I'm posting this thread because I didn't want to hijack the other clutch thread. :spank:

I'm wondering if anyone here has done a clutch rebuild, and if so, what parts they used.

I'm not 100% certain I need to replace the clutch itself (I still need to do a cable inspection), but the last time I rode my bike, I was having some serious slippage.

I'll give a little background first. My bike, over 13k, but less than 13.5k miles. I am the third real (fourth overall) owner. I bought the bike with ~12k miles on it and was told "it was well taken care of" but not given any maintenance information. The oil has not been changed (yet) since I've owned the bike because I was also told it was changed right before I bought it with Yamalube and the OEM filter. The ride that I mentioned above was about 40*F, and the bike was well warmed up.

So I first noticed when I went to take off that it seemed like the bike didn't want to move (brakes were not being touched). I was letting the clutch out to what seemed as far as it could go, but the bike was not wanting to roll. I gave it more gas and was able to get going just fine eventually. I thought I was actually starting in second because it seemed so off, but I was in first. Then while riding, I went to get on the throttle in 3rd or 4th gear and instead of getting a nice solid acceleration like I am used to, I got a loud rev of the engine. I backed off and tried again. I could repeat this when even I throttled on and I knew the clutch was slipping. I took it easy until I was able to head home, and didn't feel anymore slip for the rest of the ride. I haven't been able to ride the bike again since though.

So I'm looking around now and trying to find the best clutch rebuild kit (if I need it). I found an EBC SRK Race/Sport kit, but I'm not sure if that's the best place to go.

TL : DR - The clutch was slipping during a cold weather ride and I'm curious to know if anyone has replaced their clutch.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would check and make sure the lever on the right side of the engine is fully releasing FIRST. There should be a little bit of play at that lever. I'd be leaning towards a bad clutch cable hanging up...

Unless that engine was seriously abused, that clutch should be fine with 13,000 miles on it...

If it needs replacing, IMO, I'd stick with OEM equipment. The frictions would need replacment, the steels, unless warper or discolored can be re-used. The springs, if inside spec can be re-used but their cheap enough to replace...

There are certain markings on on the clutch hub, inner hib that MUST be lined up(marked)..

 

[ChanceCoats123]

I will be checking the cable before I make any purchases. I would check it right now, but the bike is parked in my garage and I'm stuck at school.

 

[Dry Martini]

If you need a clutch, that would be the time to upgrade to a slipper clutch. I have one my Monster, and it works real well.


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[ChanceCoats123]

I've thought about it, and the amount of time I will spend at the track doesn't really necessitate the extra cost and time. If I was that into track riding, I would buy a track bike. My FZ6 is hopefully going to be a commuting bike in the future and I don't need anything special. I'd probably get the EBC kevlar kit and just replace everything, but I don't see a real need to go slipper clutch.

 

[Dry Martini]

I've thought about it, and the amount of time I will spend at the track doesn't really necessitate the extra cost and time. If I was that into track riding, I would buy a track bike. My FZ6 is hopefully going to be a commuting bike in the future and I don't need anything special. I'd probably get the EBC kevlar kit and just replace everything, but I don't see a real need to go slipper clutch.

Well I have never had my Monster on a track, but it is just as useful on a twisty mountain road!


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[ChanceCoats123]

True, but not many of those in Illinois. Haha

 

[Dry Martini]

True, but not many of those in Illinois. Haha

Yeah I know what you mean. I have to drive about 120 miles to get to good roads. [emoji30]


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[FinalImpact]

Yeah I know what you mean. I have to drive about 120 miles to get to good roads. [emoji30]


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Some are as close as a mile, but the good ones are out 20. The best about 40!
- That said, unlike a liter bike, the little FZ offers minimal resistance (OEM gear ratio) and although you can induce wheel skid from aggressive downshifts its quite forgiving with a quick throttle blip for rev match.
>> I'd say money is better spent on upgraded suspension than a fancy slipper! JM2¢!!

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Yeah I know what you mean. I have to drive about 120 miles to get to good roads. [emoji30]


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There are some decent roads within an hour or two. The area around Starved Rock state park are curvy. :rockon:

Some are as close as a mile, but the good ones are out 20. The best about 40!
- That said, unlike a liter bike, the little FZ offers minimal resistance (OEM gear ratio) and although you can induce wheel skid from aggressive downshifts its quite forgiving with a quick throttle blip for rev match.
>> I'd say money is better spent on upgraded suspension than a fancy slipper! JM2¢!!

Rev matching down shifts is something I've been working on during my first season riding, so I think you're right. I would rather save that money from a slipper clutch and get myself an adjustable rear shock. With the R6 forks up front, I already notice way better road response. I can't imagine the feel of this bike with a dialed in front and rear suspension.

I think I'll pull the clutch cover during the winter and check for any blackened or burned marks on the friction plates. I've read enough stories on this forum about grenaded clutch disks to know it's not something I want to happen. If I see anything out of the ordinary (and I'll post pictures up as well), then I'll take the safe route and get new plates, springs, etc.