FZ6 clutch complaints revisited

[ChiliRTF]

New member here, just picked up an '05 FZ6 with 8k miles. It's already been well-loved (rebuilt title, with the particularly fast and rare two-tone blue color) but appears to be mechanically sound. I'm probably beating a dead horse with this topic, but the clutch is really the only thing that I'm annoyed with on this bike- everything else is great. If I can't extract any more information for myself in this thread, perhaps at least it will categorize peoples' opinions on the FZ6 clutch for others.

It appears the complaints about the FZ6 include some combination of these three factors:
1. Engagement range is too narrow
2. Engagement is too far out at the end of clutch lever travel
3. Clutch is relatively stiff

For 1, it appears a sportbikes.net user made some custom clutch slave levers which are longer than stock, with the effect of widening the engagement range in the lever. (and possibly helping with the stiffness?)

For 2, aftermarket adjustable clutch control levers are available for between $90 and $140.

For 3, I haven't seen as many complaints about this one, nor any solid fixes.

Personally I can deal with the stiffness and the short engagement range as long as I can put that range where I want it, so it looks like the adjustable lever is for me. But I'm a fan of hacks that don't cost money, so I do have a few questions:

Is there anything wrong with removing the spring that's on the outside of the clutch housing, and relying only on the internal clutch springs? I tried unfastening it and the clutch feels very nice.. but they put that spring on there for a reason.. right?

Does removing the clutch slave lever and moving it by a spline in one direction or the other give you any control over where the engagement range is on the control lever, or does that just give you more/less cable slack and shouldn't really be done?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Someone on the forum lenthened the lower clutch /lever(just above the clutch) 5-10 MM. This made the engagement zone much wider.

I've looked at various Yamaha clutch levers (at the engine) and haven't found a bolt up replacement. If you have a welder, some steel, shouldn't take too long.

I would not remove the spring at that lever because as your clutch cable gets dirty with use/time it won't release the clutch as easily (potentially damaging your clutch). It pulls the cable back to rest. If the cable feels hard to pull, it either needs to lubed or replaced, its not a hard cable to operate. I prefer the pressure cable tool that forces cable lube down the cable..

Changing the clock (the 2 dots on the lower arm and the shaft) won't make a difference either...

You can put some more play in the cable than recomended, just make sure its releasing the clutch fully, it won't hurt anything...

You should get used to the engagement rate with time/miles. Yes, its very short, but most people get used to it, I'd give it some time...

I believe the ASV levers are fully adjustable and warranted for life(breakage too), availabe in different colors and don't have (IMHO) 2 front sharp edges like the Pazzo's. Some what less $ than Pazzo's. Might be worth a look....

 

[skooter65]

1-Word; Magura Hydraulic Clutch.

For me, solved all issue mentioned above.

 

[LERecords]

has anyone ever just replaced the clutch with something say from barnet.. I remember reading all about this and maybe its just because this is my first and only bike i ever had.. but i really dont get what everyone is talking about.. sure the range is far out.. and yea if your not letting out just right, it can be jerky.. heck i have riddin now for what 5 years.. and i still stall out once or twice or a few times more per year.. i would say i have just gotten used to it.. i can get good traction when really getting on the trottle from the line and not pull a wheelie.. just have to find that spot, and let go ever so slow.. very interested what this whole range thing is though.. :thumbup:

 

[Nick J]

has anyone ever just replaced the clutch with something say from barnet.. I remember reading all about this and maybe its just because this is my first and only bike i ever had.. but i really dont get what everyone is talking about.. sure the range is far out.. and yea if your not letting out just right, it can be jerky.. heck i have riddin now for what 5 years.. and i still stall out once or twice or a few times more per year.. i would say i have just gotten used to it.. i can get good traction when really getting on the trottle from the line and not pull a wheelie.. just have to find that spot, and let go ever so slow.. very interested what this whole range thing is though.. :thumbup:

I'm with you. I have an 08 with 21000+ miles and no problems whatsoever with my clutch....or anything else on the bike for that matter. Great bike.

 

[Azz]

I'm just gonna put my 2 cents out there and say that I haven't found any problems with my clutch. My bike's just clicked over 14,000 and I've got cheapo ebay shorty levers.

I'm a weakling and I don't find any problems with the stiffness or the positioning of the clutch. So maybe it just needs lubing or something.

The engagement of the clutch I noticed when I first jumped on it from my 250, but it's really easy to get used to, you pretty much only need to use it on or off on the road anyway (off-road you need to slip a lot, but I haven't found that on the road).

 

[philosopheriam]

It appears the complaints about the FZ6 include some combination of these three factors:
1. Engagement range is too narrow
2. Engagement is too far out at the end of clutch lever travel
3. Clutch is relatively stiff

1. Hmm, not sure what your definition of "narrow" is, however, the first step to proper cluth performance is to make sure your bike has the proper oil in it. The oil MUST have a JASO-MA certification, otherwise, your clutch can slip and otherwise provide erratic performance.

2. Common problem when people over-adjust the clutch freeplay - the lever should have approximately 1/2" of freeplay before it begins to pull the clutch cable and thus disengage the clutch.

3. Use a good teflon dry-lube for the clutch cable - I use a Dupont teflon multi-use lube for my chain and cables - $5 at Lowes. You can take the can, attach the wand, unhook the clutch cable from the lever, and spray this stuff slowly down the cable until it comes out the other end. Put a napkin or a towel where the cable ends so you don't get lube all over your engine. You'll be amazed at what a little lube can do (that's what she said!)

 

[dnellans]

magura hydro clutch is the way to go... best mod i've done to the bike by a longshot having put 3k miles on it this summer

 

[Shoey]

I've had my Fz6 for 2 years now and while I have gotten better at it, I still have problems when riding in stop/go traffic around town. I find that each time I pull the clutch in, my entire left arm tightens.

Anyway, I'm reviving this thread to mention that killernoodle (at the sportbikes fz6 forum) will likely make more of the extended slave levers as long as there is enough interest. I hope it is all right posting a link to another forum.

Clutch Slave Levers - Sportbikes.net