Front caliper bolts stuck

[david323]

I went out this morning to pull my front calipers off for some TLC after bleeding my brakes and when I tried wrenching them off they broke my 12mm socket without budging! Aside from getting a better set of sockets, any recommendations on getting those bolts out? I'm wary to put any type of lubricant that close to my rotors and pads, and heat seems like a bad idea as wel. Should I get a long 12mm wrench for more leverage? Hit it with a brass hammer?

 

[trepetti]

Not sure how short a lever you used, but if the socket broke they are REALLY overtightened or the tools are crap. Get a breaker bar and a tight fitting socket and go slowly. And pick up a torque wrench so you can tighten them correctly to 29ft lbs

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[darius]

If you used a regular 3/8" wrench I'd say your socket was just garbage. With a long wrench or breaker bar you'll of course risk snapping off the head if you don't take it easy.

Liquid wrench/penetrating oil on the bolt head may help. Use something like cardboard to shield other parts from over-spray.

 

[david323]

Sockets are crap, the bolts were torqued to spec when I pulled the wheel for a new tire in 2012 using a good torque wrench. I've never had one break so I've never replaced them, but they were from a cheapo set. I think I'm going to hit up Sears for a craftsman set today so if I break another one they'll replace it.

 

[MattR302]

On mine I rounded off the hex on one of the bolts. Try putting some penetrating oil like PBlaster on it overnight, use a little straw so it doesnt make a mess.

 

[greg]

If it's the slider bolts then be careful, if the sliding part has seized in place then you will need to free it, otherwise it will sheer off and you may have to drill it out. Take the wheel off, use a rubber mallet to push the calliper inwards, and then pry it outwards a couple of times.

If it's the bolt that holds the caliper mount onto the fork then I'd recommend a quality 12 point socket set. I'd also recommend using copper grease on it. I don't use a torque wrench, but I have a good idea of how tight to do them up.

 

[paulie75]

Hi David,

I striped my bolt head after the last guy used an impact wrench to put them back on. When I went to pull my tire off the next time it stripped the head using a good box wrench. The wrench should work just fine and so should a socket but if it is on too tight or if has been subjected to a lot of heat it will def be harder to get off. Matt and Darius are right when using a little liquid wrench to spray around the head and thru the backside and let it sit. If the head of the bolt is ok, you can try a good box wrench and it might work. If the head is stripped, there are a few options to try:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-impact-grade-bolt-out-trade-damaged/p-00952165000P?prdNo=15&blockNo=15&blockType=G15

or, if they are really bad these have never failed me in all my years of machining. And this is what I used to get my bolt out on my bike.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-screw-extractor-set-includes-screw/p-00966202000P?prdNo=32&blockNo=32&blockType=G32

Goodluck and best to be patient. :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Most all wrenches are 12 pt. Most all non-impact sockets of 3/8" shank are 12 pt. It's mostly only impact type sockets that are 6pt so that might be a thought...

A good quality box wrench even though its 12 pt should do with the tap of hammer. The issue is the stainless and aluminum seem to bond like nobodies business. It doesn't make sense that they do, but they do. So, chemical treatment (PB as suggested) and tap it with a hammer later. I put loctite on mine as its the last thing I want falling off the bike. They were however, snug to get off during a tire change....

 

[shannim]

I have this exact same problem. I was replacing brake pads earlier this summer and wanted to take the calipers off to do a thorough cleaning. It ended up shearing off the nub of my socket adapter. In hindsight, I was using the wrong 12mm socket, so that's my fault. Even still, it wouldn't budge even when using a 12-point box wrench. Either the steel/aluminum combo caused it to seize, or the shop I took it to when I first bought the bike used an impact wrench when they put the wheel back on. Come spring time, I'm going to have to try some penetrating oil. I cannot do it now since it's parked outside under a cover and I have no garage to work in during the winter.

 

[MattR302]

Not sure why people are recommending 12-point sockets here...

 

[trepetti]

Agreed. Always use a 6 point whenever possible. Much better distribution of load on the fastener.

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[aclayonb]

+1 on the 6 point sockets. They are 6-point for a reason. You might look into j-spec screwdrivers while you're at it. Just found out not too long ago that there is a difference in the Japanese philips head and the US philips head. Explains why I destroyed so many on my resto projects.

I always anti-sieze the bolts after I remove them too. Invest in the torque wrench and buy a cheap(er) set of sockets. I have yet to break an actual socket but I've destroyed several cheap socket wrenches. Now I buy expensive socket wrenches and cheap-o sockets. I don't use the reducer sockets anymore either. Broke em' all.

I used Harbor Freight sockets to break loose a bolt on the front of the VTX once, and I ended up lifting the whole front end off the ground without breaking the wrench or socket. They're cheap enough and strong enough.

Toss in a little anti-seize and next time you can easily do it with the $5 autozone set.

Skip the geared / hinged wrenches. They shatter too easy.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

IMHO, I'd put some liquid penetrating oil on it overnight and use a 6 point socket on it.

As noted above, it gives more area grabbing the bolt than a 12 point socket.

A hand held impact driver will give some impact shock to the bolt without too much (as in a heavy duty air gun) and help shock the bolt / corrosion loose.

As long as its torqued to spec's, I believe Yamaha just wants some motor oil on the threads, not anti-sieze or locktite.

If I rode on salty, wet roads often, I'd probably put a dab of anti-size or some brake grease on those threads once their cleaned up.

Please post your final fix and good luck..

 

[david323]

I think it was just a cheap socket fail. I have a 1/4 handheld impact, just no adapter for sockets (it came with my drill and I've never even used it). I'll see what I can come up with on that front, but I will at least try to find a 6-point in 12mm and giv'er another go. I'll also get some penetrating oil on there overnight.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates?

 

[david323]

No, I asked Santa for some new sockets. I'm off most of next week for the holiday and plan to tackle it then.

 

[greg]

i got a set of ratchet spanners for xmas last year, very useful too :thumbup:

 

[Andz]

All this talk of spanners and stuff got me browsing the Snap-on website... got me drooling but I hardly use the socket set I have :spank:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

All this talk of spanners and stuff got me browsing the Snap-on website... got me drooling but I hardly use the socket set I have :spank:

Metric, SAE and others....1/2" drive, 3/8" drive, 1/4" drive,torx, metric allen, SAE allen, etc as well :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No, I asked Santa for some new sockets. I'm off most of next week for the holiday and plan to tackle it then.

Fixed yet?