How to remove front wheel

bdevries

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Hey guys,

Here is my novice take on a front wheel removal how-to! As someone new to bikes, this turned out to be extremely easy, but I know it's nice to see it online before attempting it in person. I don't know how to attach photos in line with text so I just added them at the end of the post.

Here we go.

**Do not squeeze your front brake while the wheel is off. It's not the end of the world but a hassle to push the callipers back in.

1. Loosen the allen bolt below the axle.

2. Loosen the axle bolt before lifting the front end. I had read on the boards here that a 5/8 spark plug socket with an extension in backwards can be used. Unfortunately, all of my sockets were machined in a way that doesnt allow this. So, I ended up just cutting off the end of the socket and fitting the extension in. Worked great.

3. I used the centre stand and then a standard car jack under the headers. It's only about 30-40 lbs so it's not going to be too much pressure. Put a rag over your jack if you want to protect the headers from scratches. Jack it up!

4. Remove the calliper bolts being careful not to break off the little reflector that so inconveniently blocks them! It is possible to slide the callipers off the rotors and out of the way without removing the wheel first. I just found this easier to do first. Be prepared to fight these guys lose. I had a wrench on them and gently tapped it with a rubber mallet.

5. Unscrew the axle the rest of the way. The axle should just slide out easily if you support the front wheel as you pull on the axle. Be careful with spacers as it is possibly for them to fall out.

6. At this point, your wheel should be free to take out from between the forks.

7. Clean all that stuff that you normally can't reach!:) I spent about 10 minutes using s100 total cycle cleaner to remove brake dust and clean the inside areas of the fork and front fender. Don't scrub too hard though, you're bike isn't as stable as it is with the front end on the ground IMO. I also cleaned my axle and spacers with a clean rag(no chemicals) to remove any dust or dirt and reapplied white spray grease to everything except the threads of the bolts.

8. To reinstall, simply follow the steps in the reverse order and be sure to follow manufacturer specs for torquing. Lock-tite should be used on brake calliper bolts when reinstalling.


If others have tips and advice to add, that would be awesome! Also, my terminology may be off so let me know and I can change it!

Good luck all!
 

gilbermd

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Just did this last night, took maybe 20-30 min to pull the front and rear wheel. Very surprised how easy it was. Great write up :thumbup:
 

FIZZER6

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working on bikes is much easier than working on cars because most everything is much easier to get to and you don't have to lay on your back underneath a 3,500 lb hunk of steel!
 

bdevries

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Just did this last night, took maybe 20-30 min to pull the front and rear wheel. Very surprised how easy it was. Great write up :thumbup:
Thanks!
working on bikes is much easier than working on cars because most everything is much easier to get to and you don't have to lay on your back underneath a 3,500 lb hunk of steel!

That's for sure. So much more accessible.
 

MattR302

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I just did this this past weekend. I needed to pull both wheels for new tires. Loosening the axles first is the way to go.

Rather than using a jack, I put the bike on the centerstand, tipped it back so the front tire was off the floor, then experimented with different blocks of wood under the header until both the front and rear tires were off the floor. I think I ended up with one 6x6 and one 2x4, so about 7" worth of wood thickness under the header.
 

bdevries

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I just did this this past weekend. I needed to pull both wheels for new tires. Loosening the axles first is the way to go.

Rather than using a jack, I put the bike on the centerstand, tipped it back so the front tire was off the floor, then experimented with different blocks of wood under the header until both the front and rear tires were off the floor. I think I ended up with one 6x6 and one 2x4, so about 7" worth of wood thickness under the header.

great idea!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Just to add a couple.

Take an 8mm wrench to the nut on the back of the reflector and its out of your way.

Also, un-less you want to scratch up your wheel, pull the calipers first and make sure their supported (not hanging by the brake lines-bungee cord or wire works fine).

Its also a bit easier with them off first and for re-installation, put them on last.

Less stuff to line up all at once.

With everything assembled, but the axle pinch bolt NOT tightened, get the bike back on the ground. Push the forks up and down a couple of times. This allows the fork legs to find their, natural, happy spot. Then torque the axle pinch bolt down..
 
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bdevries

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Just to add a couple.

Take an 8mm wrench to the nut on the back of the reflector and its out of your way.

Also, un-less you want to scratch up your wheel, pull the calipers first and make sure their supported (not hanging by the brake lines-bungee cord or wire works fine).

Its also a bit easier with them off first and for re-installation, put them on last.

Less stuff to line up all at once.

With everything assembled, but the axle pinch bolt NOT tightened, get the bike back on the ground. Push the forks up and down a couple of times. This allows the fork legs to find their, natural, happy spot. Then torque the axle pinch bolt down..

Agreed on the callipers. I pulled them first as well, makes manouvering the wheel around and lining up the disks much easier! As for them hanging, I actually didn't have any troubles with them brushing against the rim, as once they were hanging, they were more in line with the back of the tire.. if I remember right. When I did the brakes on my car I hung the callipers with clothes hangers, but seeing as the callipers on the bike are so small and light, I did let them hang!:p

Good point about the forks.. I didn't do that, but can understand how it's a good thing to do. Cheers!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Agreed on the callipers. I pulled them first as well, makes manouvering the wheel around and lining up the disks much easier! As for them hanging, I actually didn't have any troubles with them brushing against the rim, as once they were hanging, they were more in line with the back of the tire.. if I remember right. When I did the brakes on my car I hung the callipers with clothes hangers, but seeing as the callipers on the bike are so small and light, I did let them hang!:p

Good point about the forks.. I didn't do that, but can understand how it's a good thing to do. Cheers!

The hanging part is more for not damaging the brake lines(especially the stock rubber lines). Yes, their pretty small and not heavy.

I do tie them up and out of the way, wrapped if necessary just to prevent any new scratches and give me a little more room to work..:thumbup:
 
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