Forks oil change

[mongol777]

Time to change the oil. So I found this vid and it looks like you can drain the oil without taking forks out. I think it is S1 in the vid - I assume forks are the same on S2 (2007+)?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2A0LKQi9PzY]Cambiar aceite horquilla Fazer FZ6S sin desmontar media moto - YouTube[/ame]

 

[mxgolf]

Same here good idea. Thanks,

 

[crzymazy]

pretty sweet, too bad i have to change seals also. Maybe il make a step by step

 

[greg]

personally i think it's a bad idea using the damper rod screw to let the oil out. #

Not only is it pretty tricky to undo (it's threadlocked in and you usually need a damper rod tool to undo it), but if you don't manage to tighten it back up properly and threadlock it then you could risk dumping oil everywhere if it comes undone, not to mention it effectively holds the two halves of the forks together

It takes maybe 20mins to take the forks out, and the oil needs only be changed every 1-2 years (depending on how much and aggresively you ride). It's probably a 1-2 hour job if you've not done it before.

 

[mongol777]

personally i think it's a bad idea using the damper rod screw to let the oil out. #

Not only is it pretty tricky to undo (it's threadlocked in and you usually need a damper rod tool to undo it), but if you don't manage to tighten it back up properly and threadlock it then you could risk dumping oil everywhere if it comes undone, not to mention it effectively holds the two halves of the forks together

It takes maybe 20mins to take the forks out, and the oil needs only be changed every 1-2 years (depending on how much and aggresively you ride). It's probably a 1-2 hour job if you've not done it before.

Thank you - exactly the info i was looking for. Yep, I did it before on various bikes and on my FZ - so forks off it is. I wish our bikes had drain hole on the side like on older RDs and Hondas

 

[motojoe122]

personally i think it's a bad idea using the damper rod screw to let the oil out. #

Not only is it pretty tricky to undo (it's threadlocked in and you usually need a damper rod tool to undo it), but if you don't manage to tighten it back up properly and threadlock it then you could risk dumping oil everywhere if it comes undone, not to mention it effectively holds the two halves of the forks together

It takes maybe 20mins to take the forks out, and the oil needs only be changed every 1-2 years (depending on how much and aggresively you ride). It's probably a 1-2 hour job if you've not done it before.

Its an easy job:thumbup:
I did mine back in May, I think, when I swapped springs. IIRC, there are several how-to's on this. Use the search and check them out if you have not looked yet:rockon:

 

[mongol777]

Its an easy job:thumbup:
I did mine back in May, I think, when I swapped springs. IIRC, there are several how-to's on this. Use the search and check them out if you have not looked yet:rockon:

I did it before - I am just always looking for ways to do things easier and simpler. I think method I posted can still work in a pinch (long trip or something) but for now I will stick to forks off.

btw, does anyone has any preference for oil brand? I always used belray in all my bikes.

 

[FinalImpact]

Once you have the wheel off its the 3 cinch bolts and a ZIP tie and SPLAT!


Like Greg said, if enough people loosen them as in this vid someone WILL FIND one that SPINS INSIDE due to the loctite and have to pull the forks completely apart and buy additional tools /seals to get them back to together.

IMO it's not worth the risk and you can clean and inspect them better while off. Just remember to loosen the cap bolts first before the triples cinch bolts.

 

[FinalImpact]

Once you have the wheel off its the 3 cinch bolts and a ZIP tie and SPLAT!


Like Greg said, if enough people loosen them as in this vid someone WILL FIND one that SPINS INSIDE due to the loctite and have to pull the forks completely apart and buy additional tools /seals to get them back to together.

IMO it's not worth the risk and you can clean and inspect them better while off. Just remember to loosen the cap bolts first before the triples cinch bolts.

And that time is now!
Case in point is this thread: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/45270-front-fork-damper.html

 

[greg]

IMO it's not worth the risk and you can clean and inspect them better while off. Just remember to loosen the cap bolts first before the triples cinch bolts.

i'd add that undo the top pinch bolts, but leave the bottom ones tight to unscrew the cap bolt