for those who have done the steering head bearings...(help!)

[thethendi]

I'm in the process of putting everything back together after swapping out my stock steering head bearings with the AllBalls tapered bearings.

After putting the locknuts (parts 4, 5, and 6 on THIS diagram) back on the top of the steering stem prior to putting on the triple, it looks like the top triple won't go on properly - it's almost like the locknuts aren't pushed far enough down (see the attached pictures).

I haven't torqued down the nuts yet, only put everything back together just to make sure everything is fitting correctly. So is this something that will resolve itself after making sure that the proper torque is applied to the nuts, and everything is pressed in place? Did I somehow screw something else up? Or is this just how it's supposed to be? (I can't remember what this looked like prior to starting the repair.)

 

[abraxas]

It should all fit, was a while ago i did it, and yeah you compress them a LOT, the only thing is being 100% sure the bearings are in properly.

 

[FinalImpact]

Are you sure both of the outer races are completed seated into the frame? (not that this would cause this problem but. . . ) How did you drive them in? And the inner race near the lower triple. Is it seated all the way?

And what of the feel/bearing clearance and preload. Does it turn smooth or is it bound up? It shouldn't take much to move the top inner race down onto the stem. If its tight, it could have mar, dent, or some form of damage that keeps the race from sliding down. Pull it apart and use a fine tooth file to clean it. Confirm the inner bearing race slides on the upper part of the stem.

Other than that, it should be happy and go together.

 

[thethendi]

It was actually quite some time ago that I drove the outer races into the frame (end of last season)...I'm pretty sure I used the old races to tap them in place. They seemed to be seated properly, but I'll double check and verify that they're drawn in evenly on all sides and sitting flush where they should be.

I had a mechanic drive in the lower race and bearing for me, and that one looks seated correctly - it's pressed all the way to the bottom of the stem. The top bearing and inner race just looks like it drops onto the steering stem - it's currently sitting loosely on the outer race, such that if you applied a lot of pressure from the top, it looks like it would be pressed into place correctly. It doesn't seem to be gummed up or anything and can slide around on the stem easily.

I assumed (but am unsure, hence this post) that when you apply the torque to the nut on the steering stem that everything would get pressed together nicely. But before I start cranking away with a spanner, I figured I'd get a second opinion.

 

[FinalImpact]

You should be able to screw it down with your fingers and get it snugged up. Basically using the spanner for jambing the nuts together. The bearings themselves will have little to now pressure applied from the nut as it will quickly take the free play from the stem and snug up.

PS - you can crank down on the first nut by hand and not hurt anything and it will likely make the triple stiff to turn resulting in you having to back it off.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your link didn't go to any pictures...

Looking at your pictures, it appears as thou the frame halves are NOT together fully.

For any steering beearing install, you shouldn't loosen the frame half bolts.

Per the manual, you should be knocking out the outer races with a long rod and hammer (both upper and lower). Replacement is the same. Once seated correctly, you'll literally hear the races seat (a very solid clunk). Once their both in, assemble as usual. Your one picture shows an adjuster nut, that is as it should be.

The two adjuster nuts should be locked down after the first one is torqued to "All Balls " spec's...

Its usually pretty light (inch pounds) with just a little bit of drag on the steering head.

I've found that when installing the main top nut (80' lbs), it tends to tighten the steering a little more so I would keep towards the loose end of their spec's..

***If your frame has space inbetween the two halves, IMHO, I'd be pulling everything apart and get it bolted back together with nothing inside (NO RACES) and start over... ***

Yamaha has those safety pins on the torx bolts for a reason...

Should you have to re-install the outer races, try freezing them in your freezer to make them shrink slightly, it'll make the install a little easier but you have to work somewhat quickly (at least you'll get them started straight)..

 

[thethendi]

Thanks everyone. Sorry about the link - it was supposed to go to the BikeBandits parts fiche showing the steering stem adjuster nuts, but I think everyone gets what I'm talking about without the picture.

I didn't play with the frame bolts at all - I used a hammer and rod to pop the old outer races out from the top and bottom.

After reading everyone's posts, I'm starting to suspect that the new outer races aren't seated properly. Perhaps it's telling that I don't recall hearing a "clunk" when I installed them - I just stopped when the race wouldn't move anymore and the spacing between the race and the frame hole was even (checked with a caliper) all around.

I'll have to verify this next weekend when I get a chance to work on the bike again (garaged in another state).

 

[FinalImpact]

Thanks everyone. Sorry about the link - it was supposed to go to the BikeBandits parts fiche showing the steering stem adjuster nuts, but I think everyone gets what I'm talking about without the picture.

I didn't play with the frame bolts at all - I used a hammer and rod to pop the old outer races out from the top and bottom.

After reading everyone's posts, I'm starting to suspect that the new outer races aren't seated properly. Perhaps it's telling that I don't recall hearing a "clunk" when I installed them - I just stopped when the race wouldn't move anymore and the spacing between the race and the frame hole was even (checked with a caliper) all around.

I'll have to verify this next weekend when I get a chance to work on the bike again (garaged in another state).

The joined sections appear to have a gap due to the casting design but no gap exists. So it's all good.

-> The sound you seek is a one that goes from a clink clink clink as you rotate around tapping the races in. To a solid, no rattle, deadened sound like you're beating directly on the frame and you are because the race has seated! Pull it apart and look closely to see that no gap exists between the frame and race. A gap 1/4 as thick as human hair is NOT OK! So, the only way to know for certain is to use the old race to preserve the new race and beat them in some more!. Mind you its the TOP one that will make it look like yours in the picture but make sure all three are in all the way!

- if you fail the seat the races (any of them) the head unit WILL DEVELOP free play and a noticeable clunk over bumps. Make CERTAIN all the races are seated. This includes the lower inner race on the stem.

 

[thethendi]

Looking at your pictures, it appears as thou the frame halves are NOT together fully.

I see what you mean looking at the second picture. I never touched those frame bolts...ever...so if the frame isn't fully together, that's kind of alarming.

I found this picture from sportrider magazine showing the FZ6 frame. From that, it looks there's a small space between the two halves of the frame in the front...is a little bit of space up at the top there normal?

EDIT: FinalImpact already answered this. Thanks!

And yep, I'll try re-seating the races.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I had looked at my 07 and there is no gap..

Apparently they changed the casting process between the years (among other things) and just looks that way in your picture, so no, your good frame wise...

You'll know when the race is fully seated, it'll make a different noise when tapping in and obviously stop moving. Make sure its super clean inside the frame too, you don't want it slightly crooked due to crap between the race and frame...

Putting the race in the freezer before installation will shrink it ever so slightly and may/should help getting it in...

 

[04fizzer]

It definitely looks like your races aren't fully seated. I'd check that first.

 

[tyler2011]

You have made me nervous about my installation as I just did the grease service on mine this past weekend. Rode it after and seemed fine, read this, looked at my bike and appears to be up like yours. I made a mark on my forks where it meets the lower clamp. The marks line up where they were and the top seems to be at the top of the upper clamp as it was before so i'm tending to say this gap is suppose to be there it just isn't noticed until we take it apart. It is less obvious when the fairing is installed. Picture of mine.

As I said, all I did was take it apart greased it and put it back together. I will be doing the all balls roller set as soon as I get some funds. There was a small amount of corrosion starting on the lower but not like some of the pictures on this forum. Did seem that Yamaha was skimpy on the grease.

I have an 05 FZ6, faster blue.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You have made me nervous about my installation as I just did the grease service on mine this past weekend. Rode it after and seemed fine, read this, looked at my bike and appears to be up like yours. I made a mark on my forks where it meets the lower clamp. The marks line up where they were and the top seems to be at the top of the upper clamp as it was before so i'm tending to say this gap is suppose to be there it just isn't noticed until we take it apart. It is less obvious when the fairing is installed. Picture of mine.

As I said, all I did was take it apart greased it and put it back together. I will be doing the all balls roller set as soon as I get some funds. There was a small amount of corrosion starting on the lower but not like some of the pictures on this forum. Did seem that Yamaha was skimpy on the grease.

I have an 05 FZ6, faster blue.

That's how my 07 looks from the factory and its never been apart.. (also the faster blue!)

 

[FinalImpact]

That's how my 07 looks from the factory and its never been apart.. (also the faster blue!)

You'd think they could have made a rubber that went out past the frame and turned down so the area is basically sealed from the top! With such simple protection water would likely NEVER enter the bearings from the top at least. As it is now sitting in that sunken hole, its more of a funnel.
** Design Fail ** but it's good for revenue at the bike shops and parts house!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You'd think they could have made a rubber that went out past the frame and turned down so the area is basically sealed from the top! With such simple protection water would likely NEVER enter the bearings from the top at least. As it is now sitting in that sunken hole, its more of a funnel.
** Design Fail ** but it's good for revenue at the bike shops and parts house!

I agree, Yamaha dropped the ball in that design...

When I do mine, I'll be using top of the line OMC Marine grade, waterproof grease (not water resistant). One of it's main uses is on the drive shaft to the lower unit which rides in a bushing (not bearing) in the mid section. That shaft turns up to 6,000 RPM and will not wash off. I suspect, its overkill for the steering stem bearings but likely, I won't have to do it again...

 

[tyler2011]

yup design fail, there should be a lip the seal sits over. At least the bearings are cheap if you can install them yourself. Although I'm not convinced that's how the water gets into the bearings.

The lower seems to be so much worse than the upper. I don't know if anyone else noticed, but there is a hole between the two bearings in the back of the frame which is another entry point. It is really well protected from rain or washing but moisture and humidity is still allowed on the inside and will condense down to the lower bearing on the inside. This should be a sealed area in my opinion, kind of like the front weal bearings on my 2wd pickup.

 

[Cali rider]

This post from the past seemed to be spot on...http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ering-head-bearing-went-bad-2.html#post277343

 

[FinalImpact]

A copy of my post from the other thread. BTW thanks Cali. . .

Here is a another theory about why the bottom bearing rusts first:

As the bike heats and cools closed spaces collect moisture during the cooling process. Having no barriers to prevent air travel inward to this cavity; the moisture pools on the frame and stem and when started, the vibes shake it down and saturate the lower bearing. Rust begins when the lube fails to protect the bearings.

The fault in this line of thinking; is that all bikes that sit out and go through larger range temperature swings at a given local (some areas routinely have higher humidity than others) would suffer the same fate based on heat cycles. < Seems unlikely so there must be more to it!

Of course the more simple line is water blows in from top and bottom and kills them. The grease monkey slacked and didn't do his job so every other one produced by Man X123 will fail - haha!

Perhaps a poll:
ALL weather rides & Stored outside & bearings Failed!
Fair weather rides only Stored outside & bearings Failed!
ALL weather rides & Stored Inside & bearings Failed!
Fair weather rides only Stored Inside & bearings Failed!

ALL weather rides & Stored outside & bearings Good!
Fair weather rides only Stored outside & bearings Good!
ALL weather rides & Stored Inside & bearings Good!
Fair weather rides only Stored Inside & bearings Good!

I pressure wash it with 250PSI and blast the whole bike! They FAILED!
Whats a head bearing? - I clicked to look at bike p o r n. . .

 

[dz0]

Just replaced my steering head bearings, I feared and dreaded doing it myself, but it went much better than I expected.

The bottoms were rusty - AND I noticed they could not have been even being used - there was no smooth part on them, they were dirty and dry and could not have kept the dirt in place and actually been turning. I decided to replace them because I began to develop a clunk over bumps and read all of these posts about bearings.

A tip for anyone doing this: I did it without removing the front wheel from the forks and without removing the fairing. The handlebars remained mounted the whole time as well. I pulled the brake callipers, then loosened the forks and removed the large nut under the handle bar mount. I pulled the nuts off the steering stem and then loosened all 4 bolts for the fork clamps. I then put weight on the back of the bike to raise it up and used 2 - 4x4's and a 2x4 to prop up the front end. the forks slid down at that point. I then slid the steering stem and clamp DOWN the forks all the way to the bottom and the whole front wheel assembly could be rolled forward and removed. I think this saved me time and headache. When I reassembled it, I put the clamps back on the forks and rolled it back up in there.

Thanks a million to everyone here who gave tips and inspiration for me to pick up the wrenches that have done nothing but oil changes for so many years. I did it!

Ep 5: Replacing steering head bearings at Garage Night
The above is a nice video covering the bearing part of the process, too.

The races in the frame came out pretty easy, you can just bang on one side until they come out. Removing the race on the steering stem was the hardest part, I wound up borrowing someone's air hammer and compressor and it zipped right off.

I also had one "extra" part. It was _not_ in the diagrams - there was a rubber washer left over that was undocumented. It made me think someone else was in here before and they left this washer floating. I'll post photos later of my extra part and of my bad lower bearing.

=ALL weather rides & Stored outside(during riding season) & bearings Failed! 20K miles

 

[FinalImpact]

Just replaced my steering head bearings, I feared and dreaded doing it myself, but it went much better than I expected.

The bottoms were rusty - AND I noticed they could not have been even being used - there was no smooth part on them, they were dirty and dry and could not have kept the dirt in place and actually been turning. I decided to replace them because I began to develop a clunk over bumps and read all of these posts about bearings.

A tip for anyone doing this: I did it without removing the front wheel from the forks and without removing the fairing. The handlebars remained mounted the whole time as well. I pulled the brake callipers, then loosened the forks and removed the large nut under the handle bar mount. I pulled the nuts off the steering stem and then loosened all 4 bolts for the fork clamps. I then put weight on the back of the bike to raise it up and used 2 - 4x4's and a 2x4 to prop up the front end. the forks slid down at that point. I then slid the steering stem and clamp DOWN the forks all the way to the bottom and the whole front wheel assembly could be rolled forward and removed. I think this saved me time and headache. When I reassembled it, I put the clamps back on the forks and rolled it back up in there.

Thanks a million to everyone here who gave tips and inspiration for me to pick up the wrenches that have done nothing but oil changes for so many years. I did it!

Ep 5: Replacing steering head bearings at Garage Night
The above is a nice video covering the bearing part of the process, too.

The races in the frame came out pretty easy, you can just bang on one side until they come out. Removing the race on the steering stem was the hardest part, I wound up borrowing someone's air hammer and compressor and it zipped right off.

I also had one "extra" part. It was _not_ in the diagrams - there was a rubber washer left over that was undocumented. It made me think someone else was in here before and they left this washer floating. I'll post photos later of my extra part and of my bad lower bearing.

=ALL weather rides & Stored outside(during riding season) & bearings Failed! 20K miles

Glad it worked out for you!

A Tip on lower race removal from the stem:

An air powered cut off disc works great for the stem bearing. Place a diagonal slice right through the race (it doesn't need to be cut completely through), then place a sharp chisel into the slice and smack it with a hammer. A swift crack and the race will split. Mainly because of the press fit to the stem which locks it too the stem, so once weakened and hit, the force cracks the remaining "uncut" section of the race and it pulls off by hand {**WEAR SAFETY GLASSES**} as tiny bits fly when it cracks apart!! Because it can't lock to the stem, its great tool for pressing the new replacement race back down on the stem.

Also - I would never hammer on just one side of the cup (top or bottom of steering head) as it distorts the hole and with cast frame you can damage the frame or mare it with circular gouges making NEW RACE installation a pain and RISK having the new race being loose in the head. Take your time and work around the race taping it out evenly!

During install a long bolt or ALL THREAD and the using the old ball races is better than using a hammer. With a bolt, washers, hard wood blocks, you can pull the new races in evenly. Use a hammer to tap them to confirm they are fully seated and THEN release the bolt/screw assembly. As an added measure, tap them with a hammer to confirm they are fully seated.