Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

[bigborer]

The clicking noise is still present- tightening the CCT made no difference (got it to 1 turn tighter and still no difference). Once it's past 4000 rpm the clicking noise is gone. Will just see how this goes... only thing I hadn't measured was valve guide diameter, but hopefully it's not that.

Checked the CCT again- this time on a cold engine (last time due to it being hot made it feel quite tight) and to my surprise it actually tightened about 1.5 turns more that how I left it when I rebuilt the engine! It doesn't seem as if it loosened it's self, so where did this extra slack (about 1.75mm) come from?

Taking that extra slack might have resolved the clicking noise, but I'll find out on the next ride (next few days).

Also checked the coolant level- the radiator level is exactly where I left it. Can't remember what the reservoir level was though...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My reservoir is a PIA to see thru..

When I did my valve adjustment and had to re-fill the radiator, I let it cool and topped off.

For the reservoir, I just filled it to the TOP. It'll spit out the excess (overflow), (maybe 1/4 cup to full) on it's own..

As for the CCT, your "issue" with the tension is why I won't have a manual tensioner, too much guessing AND potential for overtightening (and stretching the chain prematurely).

IMO, pop for a new one and be done with it... 27,000 miles on mine, no noises, issues, cam chain very slightly stretched (when re-installing the exhaust cam).

 

[bigborer]

Maybe yours was a revised part and worked better (as you got the S2 model) but mine was too tight, stretched the chain and wore down the guide, and definitely worked by increasing the pressure in large leaps amounting to 2 or more full turns on the manual CCT (as it was visible by the scoring on the OEM CCT shaft).

When I've had the engine open I played around with the CCT, checking how it felt and how the overall chain tightness was affected according to the CCT tightness after a full spin of the engine. Ideally you want all the slack gone without ANY extra push (as that will only grind down the guide and stretch the chain). Turns out that the APE instructions "tighten until it makes contact and then back up 1/4 a turn" are quite close to that point.

Now, I remember exactly how tight it was when I first set it, and today it felt looser. Will definitely keep watch on it. If the clicking noise is now gone, I'll back it up 1/2 turn, just to have it adjusted in the loosest possible way.

Manual CCTs have very mixed opinions but bottom line- as long as they're not set in extreme ways, even 2 turns too much or too little from "just right" won't cause any immediate damage to the engine.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, mine is an S2, (2007) and is original.

Yamaha uses an almost identical CCT for the FJR and had an updated one.

I don't know about the FZ, if there was an updated CCT.

Should you want to order a new CCT, I'm sure you would get the updated version.

It sounds as if yours may have had an issue. As previously noted, the wear on my guides, heck I didn't even notice any.


Just my 2cts..

 

[FinalImpact]

If you T into the main vacuum port and it has a steady idle, the moment you induce drag by applying too much tension to the CCT, you see the vacuum drop. That's another clue that it is excessive!

Chain stretch comes more from shock and it's really not stretch it's wear on the rollers and pins.
The guides are the weak link and simply get chewed down until the tension is reduced.

Keep working out the bugs. You've got it real close now!

 

[bigborer]

Managed to take a longer ride today of around 100 km.

At first, it seemed that the clicking sound was almost gone. Then, after 20-30 km it seemed to come back. Did the CCT get looser, or is my mind playing tricks on me? Will find the answer to that tomorrow, when I'll recheck the CCT.

After about 1 km the low oil light came on! Pulled over immediately and there were no leaks and the oil level was fine. Started the bike again, and after about 1 km the same- only that this time after turning the key on and off the light stayed off until I got home. Once home, I'd checked the oil and the level was fine. A good thing is that the current oil (which has about 150km on it) seems both clearer and with less odor than previous oil (replaced after 65km of use) was. Also got the 8mm socket bit and tightened the remaining engine bolts using the torque wrench. Turns out that my "hand meter" did quite a good job- one bolt was exactly on 55NM, one bolt needed about 5 degrees more and another about 15 degrees

Rode "moderately hard" today and it's possible that this bike has a bit more power now that it had before the rebuild because it seems to rev a bit faster- surprised myself a few times getting over 140 km/h while overpassing in 5th gear. The handling and grip is better than on the VTR- most likely due to the crap tires and undersprung fork on the VTR which I'll sort as soon as I get the parts and have the free time. The FZ6 has conti road attack 3, with 2.2 bar front and back pressure.

One thing I really didn't like was a "new" strange handling thing. After a while it came to me that I was instinctively doing quite slow turn ins. Paying more attention to this made it clear that when turning in, especially when doing it fast made the rear feel very sketchy.

Doing some more testing revealed that when quickly (countersteering and) turning to one side, the rear just got pushed to the other side! And when quickly turning left-right multiple times the rear just wobbled side to side. This happened equally on both sides, at all speeds, and shifting my weight backwards as much as possible seemed to reduce the wobble by a small amount.

Now I've put the bike on the stand and checked the rear wheel for any kind of play- and it's fine - or at lest according to how hard I could pull without knocking the bike off the stand. Checked the torque on the swing arm and it's also fine. Only thing left to check is the head bearings. Got any opinions about this?

 

[TKBone]

Glad to hear she's roaring again! You could check spring preload (maybe too hard) and imo too less pressure on the back wheel. Have fun riding!

 

[bigborer]

Preload is at a few clicks- haven't checked the rear sag but I think it's close.

Tire pressure used to be 2.2 front 2.4-2.5 rear (for riding with my GF), and the bike used to be stable. Now I have it 2.2 all around as I'll be riding this bike solo for a while (GF only has summer gear). The guy who mounted the tires on the FZ6 (who frequently goes to races to do tires and wheels) suggested 2.0 front and 1.8 back for solo street riding.
But I will try to get the rear back to 2.5, just to see how that goes.

 

[bigborer]

Today I finally had some bike time, and took a 2 hour ride.

Tightened the CCT about 1/8 turn more and now the clicking noise seems much reduced. There is still some noise (maybe the "yamatick"?) but I'll just run it as is. The valve clearances were checked multiple times so they can't be bad, so that only leaves bent valve rods and/or worn guides. Both would lead to oil consumption, but so far the oil level is fine.

About the rear wobble when steering side to side: I upped the rear pressure to 2.5 bar and it did help a bit, but not entirely. Another thing I've discovered is that on rougher roads, when going straight at over 140 km/h the handlebars also start to wobble a bit, getting worse and worse with speed. And there is a metallic noise when going over sharper bumps at speed, so it's likely that the steering bearings preload is too loose. I will tighten it up 1/2 turn more.

I've also checked the chain and while the links did loosen up a bit (will still give it a proper cleaning at some point), I've noticed something strange- please see the attached picture. Is it a master link security clip that fell off, or is it a rivet style master link that's not fully crushed in? It's not 100% clear but I tend to think it's the former. Links have "520 VO" marked, which means this is either a DID 520 VO chain or some copy cat of that.

 

[trepetti]

Today I finally had some bike time, and took a 2 hour ride.

Tightened the CCT about 1/8 turn more and now the clicking noise seems much reduced. There is still some noise (maybe the "yamatick"?) but I'll just run it as is. The valve clearances were checked multiple times so they can't be bad, so that only leaves bent valve rods and/or worn guides. Both would lead to oil consumption, but so far the oil level is fine.

About the rear wobble when steering side to side: I upped the rear pressure to 2.5 bar and it did help a bit, but not entirely. Another thing I've discovered is that on rougher roads, when going straight at over 140 km/h the handlebars also start to wobble a bit, getting worse and worse with speed. And there is a metallic noise when going over sharper bumps at speed, so it's likely that the steering bearings preload is too loose. I will tighten it up 1/2 turn more.

I've also checked the chain and while the links did loosen up a bit (will still give it a proper cleaning at some point), I've noticed something strange- please see the attached picture. Is it a master link security clip that fell off, or is it a rivet style master link that's not fully crushed in? It's not 100% clear but I tend to think it's the former. Links have "520 VO" marked, which means this is either a DID 520 VO chain or some copy cat of that.

YIKES! That looks like a missing clip. Rivet links have a hole or recess on the end where the spreading pin from the tool touvlches it. If I am correct DO NOT RIDE THAT CHAIN. Best case scenario, the pin comes out and the chain smashes a hole in your engine case. Worst case is you get hurt. What I have been told is NEVER use a clip master on an engine this powerful.

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[Motogiro]

YIKES! That looks like a missing clip. Rivet links have a hole or recess on the end where the spreading pin from the tool touvlches it. If I am correct DO NOT RIDE THAT CHAIN. Best case scenario, the pin comes out and the chain smashes a hole in your engine case. Worst case is you get hurt. What I have been told is NEVER use a clip master on an engine this powerful.

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Good eye! Danger! Danger! Danger!

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[bigborer]

Thanks!

Who know how long I've been riding it this way...but I'm glad it held till now regardless. That's a risk you take when you buy used and/or someone else does "repairs" on your stuff...

I'll buy and fit a rivet style master link (already have a good quality tool), and with that occasion I'll properly clean and lube the chain. Until then I'll leave this bike parked...

 

[TKBone]

Woah that looks scary! Townsend, to check the coolant i point a flashlight (Smartphone) at the container from the opposit Side, works quite good. Bigborer you could check, If the rear wheel bearing is intact. That's a problem I am facing right now. But you would have heard that while riding, I guess.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Plus 100 above ^^^^.

Your missing the master link retainer clip... DO NOT RIDE IT AS IT IS...

I would pitch that link and get a squash ML installed... As noted above, your right at the limit (600cc), where clip master links are NOT used..

 

[FinalImpact]

Good eye! Danger! Danger! Danger!

Sent from Moto's Motorola

Let me fix that for you....
Danger Will Robinson! You could have died!

Damn - one thing on a dirt bike, another at 160kmh....
Sorry man but you should have been looking this over being a used bike. You could have been a statistic!

Glad it stayed and you found it before anything left the scene with ill consequences!
Be safe...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Let me fix that for you....
Danger Will Robinson! You could have died!

Damn - one thing on a dirt bike, another at 160kmh....
Sorry man but you should have been looking this over being a used bike. You could have been a statistic!

That (in bolded above) was posted many pages back...


And I thought the same "Danger Will Robinson, Danger!" from the robot...

 

[bigborer]

You are correct and I did check the wheels and bearings, frame and rebuilt the brakes and fork, but I just didn't see this one- and to be honest it hadn't even crossed my mind to specifically check for this- PO claimed he'd recently fit a new chain kit- sprockets looked 15-20% worn at most, the chain links weren't binding, chain wasn't even half stretched, so theoretically there wasn't any reason to really do much checking on a "new" chain. Nor had I ever read or heard anywhere to check the master link on a used bike "just because", and extremely few if any (licensed) bike shops check that.

Clearly someone up there, at least for now, wants me alive and in one piece. I try as much as possible to keep from pushing my luck, as I've already dodged the bullet many times. It's easy to get let down and unhappy by various stuff such as this and that braking or a business partner screwing you or who knows what, but on the long run none of that matters as long as you're alive and well. And many times the margin between alive and well and closed casket is only razor thin.

Scary thought- if someone like me, who takes extra care in having everything related to the chassis, steering, wheels and brakes in top condition, and puts more time, effort and care than any professional mechanic I've ever seen, missed that master link, you can only imagine what is the condition of most vehicles on the road, especially those of 10+ years old. Where most people simply don't care and/or they entirely rely on a "mechanic". Such as the "mechanic" that was proudly introduced to me by the PO as "the guy who did everything on this bike", and messed up almost everything he touched; from the ghetto wiring of the turn signals and the cross threading of the engine bolts when installing the crash pads, to the chain's master link which most likely wasn't even properly installed to begin with...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not beat a dead horse, but that link should have been found last time you lubed the chain, period...

Time to move on...

 

[trepetti]

You are correct and I did check the wheels and bearings, frame and rebuilt the brakes and fork, but I just didn't see this one- and to be honest it hadn't even crossed my mind to specifically check for this- PO claimed he'd recently fit a new chain kit- sprockets looked 15-20% worn at most, the chain links weren't binding, chain wasn't even half stretched, so theoretically there wasn't any reason to really do much checking on a "new" chain. Nor had I ever read or heard anywhere to check the master link on a used bike "just because", and extremely few if any (licensed) bike shops check that.

Clearly someone up there, at least for now, wants me alive and in one piece. I try as much as possible to keep from pushing my luck, as I've already dodged the bullet many times. It's easy to get let down and unhappy by various stuff such as this and that braking or a business partner screwing you or who knows what, but on the long run none of that matters as long as you're alive and well. And many times the margin between alive and well and closed casket is only razor thin.

Scary thought- if someone like me, who takes extra care in having everything related to the chassis, steering, wheels and brakes in top condition, and puts more time, effort and care than any professional mechanic I've ever seen, missed that master link, you can only imagine what is the condition of most vehicles on the road, especially those of 10+ years old. Where most people simply don't care and/or they entirely rely on a "mechanic". Such as the "mechanic" that was proudly introduced to me by the PO as "the guy who did everything on this bike", and messed up almost everything he touched; from the ghetto wiring of the turn signals and the cross threading of the engine bolts when installing the crash pads, to the chain's master link which most likely wasn't even properly installed to begin with...

I remind people that there is a BIG difference between a professional and someone with their name on a truck.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I remind people that there is a BIG difference between a professional and someone with their name on a truck.

I can't count the # of times I've had to REPAIR a "professional repair"-(under warranty) from a DEALERSHIP with YAMAHA or HONDA on the building.. From different dealerships as well.

Between screwing up a throttle sync (turning the butterfly screws on my FJR-should adjust the air screws like the FZ), to getting my 04 G0ldwing back with an oil leak (half dollar size overnight), missing parts, etc. I could go on...

The ONLY person that wrenches on my bike is the tire change guy (I only allow one person I've known literally for decades) and I bring him the WHEEL /TIRE only...

The more you can do yourself, the less issues you'll have.

The "mechanic" that installed a clip on ML should know better (and obviously didn't have the tool).. The liability for the owner and "mechanic" should that chain have come loose (damage /INJURY) would be large....(liability for owner as in injury to the rider)