Engine Trouble Warning light after 8000 rpm

[Silvia6]

The cables look great; actually it wasn't a lot of dirt in there (I believe they were recently replaced by the previous owner), and they look smooth and shiny ..no damage there and they are definitely not too tight. The diagnose still shows 16 when closed and 100 with fully open throttle, even if the engine dies when I accelerate.
Hopefully the TPS replacement will solve all my troubles and get back in the saddle soon.

I'm sure you know this by now, but that error directly relates to the TPS.... Oddly an over tight or damaged cable that doesn't pull smoothly can make things show up that otherwise didn't before. I hope this solves it! Also if the cables are suspect, you might just have them replaced. Is it real dusty there? This could reduce their effective life span.


Fault Code: 15
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: Throttle position sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed throttle position sensor.

Related but not the same...

Fault Code: 16
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: A stuck throttle position sensor is detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Stuck throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU. 01

 

[Silvia6]

The cables look great; actually it wasn't a lot of dirt in there (I believe they were recently replaced by the previous owner), and they look smooth and shiny ..no damage there and they are definitely not too tight. The diagnose still shows 16 when closed and 100 with fully open throttle, even if the engine dies when I accelerate.
Hopefully the TPS replacement will solve all my troubles and get back in the saddle soon.

I'm sure you know this by now, but that error directly relates to the TPS.... Oddly an over tight or damaged cable that doesn't pull smoothly can make things show up that otherwise didn't before. I hope this solves it! Also if the cables are suspect, you might just have them replaced. Is it real dusty there? This could reduce their effective life span.


Fault Code: 15
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: Throttle position sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed throttle position sensor.

Related but not the same...

Fault Code: 16
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: A stuck throttle position sensor is detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Stuck throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU. 01

 

[Silvia6]

Today I got my bike back. Everything seems ok until now, but I still have to test it on a longer ride, to check if, after the TPS replacement, I still get the engine warning trouble light after 8000 rpm.

I will get back with updates after testing it.

 

[Silvia6]

Back after the weekend ride. The good news is that the bike is flawless again. The bad news is that the engine trouble warning light is still there.

The first 100 km (at a constant speed of 180-190 kmh) were ok, no light on the dashboard. After riding 109 km...bam!...the light again .

Meanwhile I changed the oil (this time I put LiquiMolly 10w40), the oil filter, the air filter, cleaned the chain thoroughly (removed the front sprocket cover).

So the mystery lives on....

 

[Jorosv]

I had a similar issue last most and the culprit was my battery going bad and engine not receiving enough jusice to power up the spark plugs at 8k good thing it was under warranty so they just replaced it .

 

[Motogiro]

I had a similar issue last most and the culprit was my battery going bad and engine not receiving enough jusice to power up the spark plugs at 8k good thing it was under warranty so they just replaced it .

Did your computer record an error code?

 

[FinalImpact]

Did your computer record an error code?

Meter only has two wires for data transfer; if they are both healthy its narrowing down the field to:
- battery, IMO not likely.
- Bad connection - likely... ... ...
- Connections Meter: Ground = Black/White trace. Data = Yellow/Light Blue trace. Inspect them thoroughly.
- ECU
- Meter
- I'm curious about the timing chain tensioner. Any chance its letting the chain eat the trigger? << Should store an error if this is the case so it NOT likely.

 

[Motogiro]

Meter only has two wires for data transfer; if they are both healthy its narrowing down the field to:
- battery, IMO not likely.
- Bad connection - likely... ... ...
- Connections Meter: Ground = Black/White trace. Data = Yellow/Light Blue trace. Inspect them thoroughly.
- ECU
- Meter
- I'm curious about the timing chain tensioner. Any chance its letting the chain eat the trigger? << Should store an error if this is the case so it NOT likely.

Exactly why I queried. Most conditions of low voltage get the ECU to throw a flag on the field (a code)
The OP's problem seems to be likely a vibrating connection either internal within the cluster or through a plug. If the ECU is not pushing up a code as in the OP's description then the engine sensors or not sending anything out of range and the ECU is happy. I strongly believe this is in the instrument cluster or the plug assembly.

 

[FinalImpact]

Exactly why I queried. Most conditions of low voltage get the ECU to throw a flag on the field (a code)
The OP's problem seems to be likely a vibrating connection either internal within the cluster or through a plug. If the ECU is not pushing up a code as in the OP's description then the engine sensors or not sending anything out of range and the ECU is happy. I strongly believe this is in the instrument cluster or the plug assembly.

Thoughts: I am assuming the data on the BUS has check-sum. If a fault exists do to vibration, perhaps its losing packets, thus trigging CEL??? The CEL lamp is just a diode driven by the meters processor. Data lost on the bus should prompt a CEL. Reading some literature:

Once a malfunction has been detected, a fault code is stored in the memory of the ECU. << aha!
• After the engine has been stopped, the lowest fault code number appears on the clock LCD. Once a fault code has been displayed, it remains stored in the memory of the ECU until it is deleted.

Hmm - - - Notice the heading here:
Communication error with the meter
Er-1 through Er-4 are ECU to Meter errors. All 4 have the same end result. It will not Start OR will not Run if they occur.

So this is an odd duck not storing an error as there must not be an error. Circle the wagons looking for a bad connection.

Q? Is it temperature related?

 

[Silvia6]

Latest updates:
- I checked the diagnosis system for any new errors (the guys in the Yamaha service deleted all the old errors) and there is one shiny shiny bling bling new error: fault code 46.
I had this error before in the diagnosis system, but since I had the problem with the dead battery, it didn't look suspicious. Now that I have a new battery and I still get that error, it looks very suspicious.

The service manual says:
Fault code 46: Power supply to the FI system relay is not normal.
Probable cause:
1 Connected condition of connector
- Inspect the coupler for any pins that may have pulled out.
- Check the locking condition of the coupler.
Operation item and countermeasure:
- If there is a malfunction, repair it and connect it securely.
- ECU coupler.

2. Faulty battery
Operation item and countermeasure:
-Replace or change the battery

3. Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Operation item and countermeasure:
Repair or replace if there is an open or short circuit.

# Between battery and main switch red – red
#
Between main switch and fuse (ignition) brown/blue – brown/blue

# Between fuse (ignition) and ECU red/white – red/white


I reset the error today, and I will test it again soon, to see if I get the same error after the appearance of the "engine trouble light". If I get the same 46 error after I get the engine trouble warning light..it seems that we have a winner.

So, it's like you guys said..the most probable cause is a faulty connection.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates?

 

[Silvia6]

No updates....since for the past weeks it's been raining and the temperature went pretty low all of a sudden. The end of the motorcycle season is almost here, as winter is coming...

I did try to get the light again (a week or so ago).. After work, I went for a 40 km ride on the highway and ride constantly at >8000-9000 rpm, even 10000 rpm, but this time it was no "engine trouble warning light".

Even if I didn't get the warning light this time, I am sure that after riding ~100 km the engine warning light would appear again. The thing was that I wanted to check if I get the same error again...which I couldn't find out just yet.

Hopefully, the weather will be ok this weekend and I'll go for a longer ride..and I will not stop until I get the engine warning light again...

 

[Silvia6]

Guys, it's official..the end of the season is here. I couldn't check what I wanted to check because the weather was horrible..and yesterday it snowed a little..so, no more motorcycle for me until spring.

I will keep you posted though, and if I have news I will share everything here. Until then..stay safe and have lots of fun!

 

[Silvia6]

Hello guys,

I was fooling around with my bike in the garage ..opening the throttle... closing it..and I managed to get the engine trouble warning light again!

I checked the diagnose system (which had been previously cleared of all errors) and, as suspected, I got the same 46 error again.

So...time to check all the wires ..again.. ...and hopefully this time I will pin down the problem.

 

[FinalImpact]

Hello guys,

I was fooling around with my bike in the garage ..opening the throttle... closing it..and I managed to get the engine trouble warning light again!

I checked the diagnose system (which had been previously cleared of all errors) and, as suspected, I got the same 46 error again.

So...time to check all the wires ..again.. ...and hopefully this time I will pin down the problem.

You could disconnect the suspect areas and ohm them out to the ECM. Do you own a good meter and lead set? The schematic and lay out is pretty easy to tackle. It can nearly be done from the ECM drawing i made as all of the critical components share common points and are all tied together.

Plus by individually removing every critical point and looking and testing it, you can be assured you find something along the way or wield a heavy fist at some electronic component.

Just a thought. Let me know if you need more info.

 

[Silvia6]

You could disconnect the suspect areas and ohm them out to the ECM. Do you own a good meter and lead set? The schematic and lay out is pretty easy to tackle. It can nearly be done from the ECM drawing i made as all of the critical components share common points and are all tied together.

Plus by individually removing every critical point and looking and testing it, you can be assured you find something along the way or wield a heavy fist at some electronic component.

Just a thought. Let me know if you need more info.

Thank you for the info. Yes, I have a good meter and lead set and the first thing I'll do is start by checking the wires mentioned in the Service Manual (the attached picture) and then by checking the ECU coupler. Maybe there is a bad solder joint?!

I'll keep you posted and I'll take pictures (I plan to do this on Saturday). Maybe I'm missing something important that is right in front of me, so a second opinion is more than welcome.

 

[Silvia6]

Hello again,

Latest update:
- I started the process of 'checking all the wires' and since I am a total newbie at this electrical thing the process is a little slow.
- the ECU coupler seems really ok, apparently no bad solder joints and the coupler was clean and shiny (picture 1).
- I did find something suspicious though, a set of wires with a lot of isolation band (picture 2). I removed the isolation band and I found something that seemed like an improvisation (picture 3). Since I have no idea what it's supposed to be here, can you help me with a picture or some guidance with what is supposed to be there? There is also a white wire that is not connected to anything (picture4). Is this how it's supposed to be?..a loose white wire standing in the air?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That entire mess is not factory.

And no, the factory doesn't tape off cut wires. Their very heavy wires, perhaps from the charging system, a re-wired VR harness end (???)

Being thats NOT my area of expertise, FI or Cliff will chime in.

[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION]
[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]

 

[FinalImpact]

Pict 2, too blurry. I cant see if something is out of place within the connector. Green, black, brown and corrorsion or burning is sign somthing is wrong.

Does it have anything like that going on?

On the loom w the yellow red and black. It looks like the stator has been replaced. The charging system from the factory uses a coil assembly with a magnet spun by the crank. The stator has 3 white wires. Yours now has 3 yellow wires (non oem replacement). The stators white wores go to the Rectifier / Regulator which makes DC power to run the bike and charge the battery.

IMO i would connect a hand held meter and watch it.DC voltage from the RR should go above 14volts anytime the engine is above 2500 RPM. Just verify battery voltage.
Can you verify this?

As Scott said, thats not an OEM connection and i am suspect of its operation. Any battery issues?


**********************
EDIT: 2014-03-24 @ 9:02 AM
Looking back in the thread it now appears to me the RR was replaced and the OEM connector into the RR was cut off.

**********************

 

[FinalImpact]

OK - this now makes more sense - It looks like the RR was replaced and the OEM connector directly into the RR was adapted to use a NON-STANDARD RR.

Silvia, does your RR look like this? Sorry, only the backside. But see the connector...

If someone can share a underseat picture of the wires to the RR that on a 06 would help.

VS 2008 OEM -

So, I've never dug into the OEM bundle but Cross talk could be an issue if the stator wires are too close to the low voltage ECM wires. The stator outputs 90 ~ volts AC and if the wires are routed too close to the low voltage wires, it could induce your issues at 8000 RPM. (( I'll give this a *plausable* maybe ))...


PS this is what mine does:

Update:
2014-01-25 fired the bike up after sitting for three months, no tender.

As found: 12.90V (the same as last year!! (well 12.92 after 4 months))
Charge cuts in just over 2350 RPM @14.26V
1300 RPM 210°F fan on 12.10V w/dual headlights (after 10 minutes of idle)
2500 RPM - 14.25V fan on
2500 RPM - 14.30V fan off
1300 RPM - 12.82V fan off (after 10 min idle)

After 45 min Rip, parked it and measured voltage after sitting for 30 min = 13.20V. I suspect it may go another year. Cold start temp was in the high 30°F and it didn't crank at its normal pace but fired right up!