easiest way to take out two bolts holding the ignition to top fork clamp?

fazer.rider

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i didnt quite understand what haynes manual meant. it said "drill it", i worry i might mess up. since you can't get leverage to those security bolts. how the heck did the factory put them on to begin with? thanks. :D
 

mstewar1

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The bolts are special:
View attachment 24088

If I understand it correctly, once they're torqued to the correct value the head snaps off or one snaps them off.

Getting them off is a bear. I used my dremel and cut the heads. Once the head is off and you can get the ignition switch off, you'll be able to get at the bolt stubs.
 
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fazer.rider

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pardon my ignorance, if u cut off the head, wont the threads still be inside? how can u get that out? would it work if i cut a line cross than use a flat screw driver?
 

Wavex

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Grab-it wont work. You need to cut the head off.

Threaded hole is on the top triple... the ignition assembly is just a thru hole... so cut the heat and you're done.
 

fazer.rider

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cool. sry for asking this seemingly obvious question but im new at this :ban: cutting the head doesnt seem so easy. im having a hard time imagining how i would angle the dremel to make a clean cut without also cutting the ignition. do i line up the cutting blade perpendicular to the head and cut downward (have the head facing me, flipping the top triple upside down)?

also why wouldn't grab it work? since the security bolt was screwed it. it makes sense that grab-it can extract it spinning counterclockwise, no?

sry for the dumb questions :spank: but i've never done this before but i think with guidance i can conquer it
 

mstewar1

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It's not a fun task. I used the black cutting wheel(s) on my dremel. Yeah, it's a pain to get it angled and in there to cut the heads off. My ignition didn't look so hot after my effort but since it's on the underside of the top clamp, I didn't get too bothered by it.

Once the head is cut off, the ignition will separate from the clamp, exposing the remainder of the bolts. There will be a sufficient amount of bolt exposed to accommodate a pair of pliers. They come out easily enough.

When I went to the dealership to inquire about the "security" style bolts and if there was an kind of "wrench" to get them off, the guys as the counter just kinda looked at me like I was an idiot. So I walked around the corner and talked to one of the mechanics. He said that cutting them off was how they removed them, too. And since he had a few bolts on his bench, he just gave 'em to me.
 

mstewar1

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Matty, that's a fair question. I suppose one could do that. I don't recall why folks suggested the cutting method and am too lazy to search for threads. Perhaps it had something to do with the tension (torque) setting of the bolts(?). But I suppose if you got good purchase with an easy-out it'd be able to deal with the tension.
 

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Just drill the heads (center punch, then graduate up to a larger drill bit) enough to remove the switch.

Once the switch is up and out of the way, put a vise grip on whats left (now a headless stud) and spin it out counter clockwise.. Ots not super tight, just some locktight on the threads..

Scott
 

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I've done dozens of these and the best and easiest way is to use a dremel with a large cut-off wheel to cut a slot in the head of the bolt- so it looks like a regular slotted screw. Then use a hand held impact (the kind you hit with a hammer) to break the bolt loose. After that you can use a large flat blade screwdriver to thread it out. If you don't mess up the head of the bolt too bad, you can reuse it when you reinstall the new ingnition switch- or just get some new allen heads.
 

MaxRyan

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I've done dozens of these and the best and easiest way is to use a dremel with a large cut-off wheel to cut a slot in the head of the bolt- so it looks like a regular slotted screw. Then use a hand held impact (the kind you hit with a hammer) to break the bolt loose. After that you can use a large flat blade screwdriver to thread it out. If you don't mess up the head of the bolt too bad, you can reuse it when you reinstall the new ingnition switch- or just get some new allen heads.


+1 that's how I did mine.
 
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