Drilled out my manifold bolts... and now dripping :/

[cmpfz6]

An update for you guys... The solution suggested seems to have worked in plugging the hole so thanks a lot for all your suggestions, that's the good news. A new problem has developed though as the radiator fan seems to have stopped working, although I'm not sure if it ever did as I've never left it to idle for as long as this. Seems to be running very hot though and I'm sure the fan should have kicked in at the 4th temp bar? No leaks though so I'm happy about that :Sport:

 

[Motogiro]

Not knowing how far or where the compromise into the water jacket is, my thought would be is there the possibility of an obstruction that would limit coolant flow.

There may have been air introduced to the coolant that is stuck. Having a friend help you lean the bike to each side may help eliminate any trapped air. Trapped air can also keep sensors from reading correctly.

The fan can be tested by pulling the plug and applying 12 vdc directly to the pins. Another way is to attach a meter and measure voltage at the fan. Obviously voltage at the fan and no fan operation will tell you the fan motor is not functioning.

 

[FinalImpact]

The later models (S2) read out the temp in F and C. ECU kicks on the fan at 204° ~ 210° or so.

As such, the top radiator hose should be around 200°F when the fan comes on. You can strap a thermocouple or thermometer to it and ball park wise its be close 200F.

Obviously, free spin the fan and confirm its not stuck too!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Simply going for a ride will usually bleed any air out of the system, top off after it cools down.

Have you checked the fuse for the fan yet?

BTW, did you just use a stud with the sealer, or a plug, then a stud?

 

[cmpfz6]

Problem solved, bike is roadworthy again! :thumbup:

The issue with the fan was fairly simple; the bike was involved in an accident before I had it which pushed the fan assembly into the radiator, preventing it from spinning. It's a wonder I never had any overheating issues before because the fan had basically never been able to spin. I whipped the fan off, tested it and bent the brackets back into shape, now working fine.

As for the leakage issue from before, I retapped the hole as the threads were messy, interted a set/grub screw with the thread sealer I posted up earlier, on top of that I bunged in some epoxy putty, then a dose of RTV sealant (just to get some use out of it if nothing else!). Then inserted a helicoil followed by the stud. All seems to be holding up great. Thanks at everyone who offered advice here, much appreciated!

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Ultra black permatext will work only off you re tap the hole. You can get it the bolt fairly tight with a helicoil, but the permatex doesn't have a whole lot to stick to.

It's too easy, think of it like this, some vehicles have oil pressure sending units, ECTs, knock sensors that run through galleys and jackets

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Problem solved, bike is roadworthy again! :thumbup:

The issue with the fan was fairly simple; the bike was involved in an accident before I had it which pushed the fan assembly into the radiator, preventing it from spinning. It's a wonder I never had any overheating issues before because the fan had basically never been able to spin. I whipped the fan off, tested it and bent the brackets back into shape, now working fine.

Just a side note, If the fan had activated when it was jambed up, it WOULD have burnt itself up, then maybe, blow the 20 amp fuse.

Its a common issue for rocks / pebbles to get stuck inbetween the radiator and fan motor (kicked up from the front tire)

Glad its straightened out!

 

[cmpfz6]

Both these things crossed my mind, I would have liked to have retapped without using a helicoil but really the threads were too far gone and wouldn't have made a good seal. It's holding up fine thus far so fingers crossed it won't leak again.

I was amazed that the fan worked because like you said Scott, I thoug it would have burned out - I've had the bike 3 years so I guess it's just never got hot enough to turn on. I'm happy it's all working again, any further issues I know where to come!

 

[FinalImpact]

FWIW: there are a couple of tools to reduce risk, on a fluted drill bit you can control the depth with a Depth Stop collar. In a pinch tape will work but these are pretty handy. See attached.

Also, when chasing threads, be sure to use a bottoming tap as a standard tap for cutting fresh threads is skinny and long and can punch into jackets causing issues. Well, assuming that bottoming doesn't break it off.

cmpfz6, can you list what product names, PNs you actually used? Tks

 

[cmpfz6]

FWIW: there are a couple of tools to reduce risk, on a fluted drill bit you can control the depth with a Depth Stop collar. In a pinch tape will work but these are pretty handy. See attached.

Also, when chasing threads, be sure to use a bottoming tap as a standard tap for cutting fresh threads is skinny and long and can punch into jackets causing issues. Well, assuming that bottoming doesn't break it off.

cmpfz6, can you list what product names, PNs you actually used? Tks

Definitely worth noting for next time, thanks. Products eventually used for the repair were as follows:

Permatex 59214 High temperature Thread sealant
M8 helicoil thread repair set
M8x10mm grub/set screw
Evo-stik Hard and Fast metal epoxy putty, steel reinforced
Pro Seal Red Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Instant Gasket

Like I said, all seems to be holding up well so far