Don't do what I did

[TownsendsFJR1300]

it would be interesting to see but i dont have a centerstand on my bike, is there a way i could lift it with no pressure on the rear that i might just not be thinking of?

With the help of a friend, a short 2x4, a sizzor jack, you should be able to have your buddy balance the bike, then raise the rear of the bike after putting the 2x4 and sizzor jack under the rear end of the header... (I don't know for certain this work as the Center of Gravity might be behind of where the sizzor jack is)

As stated earlier, I did read somewhere on the forum, adjusting the chain without a centerstand is the same as with, obviously, the #'s would be off some but there's apparently enough give and take there...

 

[pantone]

I had run my bike for 21,000km using 45-55mm w/o problem, and the chain saw almost no loose. Once I adjust the chain tighter to see if the vibration will improve, but in vain. So I will stick to the manual spec.

 

[adberns]

I have heard that chain tension in the manual is set so that the chain, when stretched its most, has around 1/2" of slack. The chain is at its tightest when the center of the front sprocket, rear sprocket, and swingarm pivot are all in a line. So the manual's 1.77-2.17" will ensure that, no matter how your suspension travels, the chain never exceeds this "too tight" threshold. Too tight is the bad thing, right up until the point where you throw your chain. Also bad ...

On bikes where you can't trust the manual for chain tension (e.g. custom swingarm, different sprockets), you can manually get the sprockets and swingarm aligned and check tension there. Some people do so by weighting the bike, others simply remove the rear shock. The goal is, again, around 1/2" tension when fully extended.

Notice that I wouldn't change this regardless of the weight I was carrying on the bike. In-spec is certainly tight enough to avoid throwing the chain off, so there's no reason to go tighter. Plus, even if you sit on the bike and don't extend the chain fully, when you ride and hit bumps, accelerate, corner, etc., the suspension travel may extend the chain fully. You can't say for certain you will never push the suspension that far, and since there is no harm with in-spec, I would say leave it in-spec.

Take all of this with a grain of salt - I am not a mechanic. Officially, the recommendation is always the same - follow the manual

 

[ChevyFazer]

I doubt it'd be much different between adjusting on the side vs center stands. MAYBE 1/8". My guess is the directions to but it on the center stand are to make it easier to rotate the wheel and find the tight spot in the chain.

your probably right as far as center stand vs side stand but were talking about center stand measurment vs the measurment while sitting on the bike. in other words swing arm all the way down (chain at its potential loosest) vs rider on the bike and swingarm compressed (chain at its "average" operating tension)

i adjust the chain while its on a padock stand but when im done i have someone close to my weight sit on the bike to check my slack, i can get pretty anal about little things like this but so far it has served me well in the longevity of parts

 

[GTPAddict]

So, with all that's been said about chain adjustments now, is it still the assumption that 1/4" too tight destroyed the OP's chain and sprockets? Maybe it was something else?

 

[FinalImpact]

Any chance it was 520 chain on 530 sprocket(s)? That would make metal.
Also the gear box should have been screaming for attention if the tension was at a binding state. And lastly, if its really to tight the bike won't settle out and WILL ride very strangely especially over bumps when the suspension should compress. Upon compression the gear box would WHIRRRRRRRRR. . . .

I didn't see any of this stuff mentioned so I'm just throwing ideas out there. . . (offset incorrect??)