Don't buy the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

AdamFZ

AdamFZ

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First thing that failed on it was the breaker pin to push the old pin/links out and then when trying to rivet/flare the new pins, the head just squared off and didn't flare the head of the pin. Just for reference, that head is supposed to be domed shaped !:



 
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Re: Don't by the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

AdamFZ said:
First thing that failed on it was the breaker pin to push the old pin/links out and then when trying to rivet/flare the new pins, the head just squared off and didn't flare the head of the pin. Just for reference, that head is supposed to be domed shaped !:



Click to expand...

The rivet on that master link looks very over compressed. The flare on the master link only needs to expand enough to keep it from coming through the bore of the link it passes through. From what it looks like, you may have crushed the "O" ring and the link may be very stiff and compromised. I would get a replacement pin for your chain tool kit and a new master link with "O" rings and redo the master link.

This may be why the pin became damaged. If the pin were too hard a material it could fracture and instead of doing it's swedging job, it would fail.
 
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Re: Don't by the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

Motogiro said:
The rivet on that master link looks very over compressed. The flare on the master link only needs to expand enough to keep it from coming through the bore of the link it passes through. From what it looks like, you may have crushed the "O" ring and the link may be very stiff and compromised. I would get a replacement pin for your chain tool kit and a new master link with "O" rings and redo the master link.

This may be why the pin became damaged. If the pin were too hard a material it could fracture and instead of doing it's swedging, job it would fail.
Click to expand...

+1^^
I had to replace a master link when I swapped chains because I did compress it a tad too much. Cliff is exactly right, it does not take much, barely enough to see with the eye.
 
Re: Don't by the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

I've always used a cut off wheel on my dremel to remove chains. The riveter works fine for putting the master link together.
 
Re: Don't by the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

+1 ^^^ with the cut off wheel.

Re the tightness of the link Cliff posted, did you measure the rivit width as you crimped? There should have been a spec sheet on what the loose/tight tolerances are. A final width of the the master link rivit.

If its too tight as noted above, you'll get excessive wear at that link. The fix, again, would be to cut off and re-install a new link re-greasing the o-rings.

It does take longer sneaking up on the press fit, but you won't be doing it again (once done properly) anytime soon..


Just a side note seeing you have a DID chain. With the DID chain tool, Actual LINK: Access Denied you CANNOT OVERTIGHTEN the master link. It wasn't noted in the diections but when sneaking up on the final tightness, I had to go as far as I could, tightening, and the spec's were dead smack in the middle..


 
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Re: Don't by the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

Wow, all I did was cut the old useless chain off my gsxr 750 and used a ball pien hammer to mushroom it out (very, very carefully) never had an issue
 
Re: Don't by the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

The link isn't tight and it moves as freely as the others. On the installation sheet it gives dimensions of the flaring of the pins (5.4mm to 5.6mm). I measured mine with a digital caliper before and after my attempt. It was 5.4mm and they went to 5.44mm and 5.42mm.
 
Re: Don't by the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

I'd take a round type feeler gauge and,
See how much room you have between factory-made links,
And the one you did and see where
You're at before putting on a new master link.
You maybe OK if it's not over tightened.
As you said it was free.
Worth a try.
The end of the rivet
Will be whatever shape the die is.
Doesn't matter as long as it's bigger
than the hole in the link it goes through.
Grease 'em good!
Good luck with it!
:cool:
Rich


For other folks who may buy this tool:

The description states: "ALTHOUGH THIS TOOL MAY BE USED FOR BREAKING ALL CHAIN SIZES FROM #35 TO #630, WE DON'T RECOMMEND CUSTOMERS TO USE THEM FOR BREAKING HEAVY DUTY TYPES OF #530 TO #630 UNLESS THE RIVET HEAD IS GROUND OFF FIRST."
 
Re: Don't by the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

AdamFZ said:
The link isn't tight and it moves as freely as the others. On the installation sheet it gives dimensions of the flaring of the pins (5.4mm to 5.6mm). I measured mine with a digital caliper before and after my attempt. It was 5.4mm and they went to 5.44mm and 5.42mm.
Click to expand...

If your inside those spec's, sounds like your good, especially if its free.

Update, (as I forgot), the measurement was of the rivit width sqaushed down, NOT the link width..
 
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Re: Don't by the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

I just bought an ebay one for $25, just used it Saturday to install a chain on my CBR. It ended up being "Stark" brand. Stark Tools USA
I didn't use it to break the chain, since I already had it off. But it seemed to work alright. The battery in my digital calipers was dead, so I wasn't able to measure riveting diameter or the overall link width. I'll inspect the riveting tip tonight and report back.
 
Re: Don't by the eBay chain breaker/riveter !

Just to be sure, i've bought a DID chain breaker/riveter to finish it off :thumbup:
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
Just an FYI;

Click to expand...

Thanks. I just noticed on there is says that you need the pin with the grove in (KM500R) for riveting the 530VX chains. Damn, best get ordering then.

Damn Damn.... that means i need to rivet the head to somewhere between 5.7mm and 6mm. I'm only at 5.4 ish :-(

How did i miss this !!!:confused::thumbdown:

Guess i won't be riding my bike tomorrow for work :-(
 
The above tool WILL bottom out fully and NOT over tighten, (I learned after using it).

Thats why I bought the much more expensive DID tool, just to keep things like that from happening (I'm a tool fanatic anyway!)...
 
All sort now.

Replaced the master link with a new one and re-did it all. The flared heads are now 5.8mm

Easy when you have the right tools !! Blah

Chain set to correct slack too :D
 
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