Difficulty In Shifting Smoothly - 1st to 2nd

[Zealot]

Thread title says it all, really. I'm having some trouble with my bike making the shifts smooth between first and second gear. Often the bike shudders a bit, and I'm having a hard time telling if it's my clutch or throttle usage, maybe both. I've tried to keep them pretty even and steady as I go through the motions, and sometimes I shift without any issues, but I often feel like an amateur as I botch the first upshift. As the clutch goes out I'm starting to roll back onto the throttle, but it's hard to tell where I'm messing up. Everything past that tends to flow smoothly though, which is weird to me. I seem to recall having read that on this bike you only really need to pull the clutch half way in, give or take, since it disengages so quickly - does it hold up under practice? Maybe preloading the shifter?

If there's any hidden tips or tricks, I'm all ears.

 

[ChanceCoats123]

You may need to adjust your clutch cable to get a full disengagement and re-engagment. I was having problems towards the end of last season with what felt like a slipping clutch, but was really just a poorly adjusted (on my part) clutch cable and lever.

With regards to technique, I've found the best way to shift this bike smoothly is to do it quickly. Preload the shift peg and make a very deliberate toe movement THROUGH neutral and it can be very smooth. Also, our engine will drop rpms very quickly once off the throttle, which makes it hard to rev match if you keep the clutch in for too long. As odd as it seems, I've found my best shifts occur when I quickly pull in the clutch, shift (almost simultaneously), and just let the clutch quickly back out. This doesn't give the engine a long enough time to drop rpms from the quick release of the throttle.

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ tru-dat, shift it like you mean it moving the lever briskly and w/positive force. Not mashing per say, just intentional.

I find I need to lube the clutch cable every 2500 miles. FSM calls out engine oil which works fine. Also, lower gears have less mechanical chance of aligning at lower engine speeds like 3K vs 6k. So perhaps shift a bit later...

After you get used to it, the short friction range on a smooth operating cable pull is a blessing as the lever only needs to move 3/4" for Engaged VS Disengaged. :thumbup:

 

[Zealot]

Thanks for the quick response guys! I let myself warm up a bit and went back out for another short ride (it's been tearing me up, and I had to prove that I could do it), and things went much better. I'd seen a 'related' post at the bottom of the page and read up on what was written in there. Preloading the shifter made a pretty big difference across the board right away, as did running the first>second switch higher in the RPM range. Going to practice the technique on further riding and hope to eventually nail it!

Going to give quicker shifting a shot, not to mention a bit more force and 'pull' on the preload to really get it up through neutral and into second. I'll lube up the cable too!

 

[erburtt]

Noticing you're from Toronto area, wasnt it a tab bit cold to be out riding today? There's an extreme cold warning in the city today haha. I dont blame you as I've been itching to get out, but warmer weather will make you more comfortable and in the end result in smoother shifting.

 

[Zealot]

Noticing you're from Toronto area, wasnt it a tab bit cold to be out riding today? There's an extreme cold warning in the city today haha. I dont blame you as I've been itching to get out, but warmer weather will make you more comfortable and in the end result in smoother shifting.

Oh god, the only word that comes to mind in regards to riding today is "uncomfortable". That being said, I've been itching to ride for so long, and now that I've got a fancy new bike - I had to get out since the roads were clear. Multiple short stints, but I managed almost 100km today.

Tomorrow is looking to be a bit warmer though, which I'll appreciate since it'll be one cold commute to class.

 

[ChanceCoats123]

I didn't realize your location. The same oil lubricates the engine and trans on our bike, and a warm bike should definitely shift a bit smoother. I ride my bike for the first time this season yesterday. It was also the first time since my oil change, and I went with a thicker oil than the FSM calls for (20w50) because I really only ride in warmer weather and I could tell it was much smoother once the bike was really up to temp. Also realize that coolant temps will reach normal before oil temps do. So just because the gauge reads warm, the oil may still be cool.

 

[rideslikean00b]

In my experience having owned a handful of Yamahas and tried about double that for day loans, many of them have clunky gearboxes especially with that all important change from 1st to 2nd. They require a bit more finesse than any similar Kawasakis or Hondas I've ridden. Pulling the FZ6 through neutral when going from first to second takes a bit of practice to get smooth, as has already been mentioned a quick, definite motion with the right amount of clutch (i.e. don't keep it pulled in too long) can help. Gentle back on the throttle after blipping it for the gear change, try and rev match... it's hard for me to describe but you'll learn the RPM sweet spots for the gear changes, and can even know exactly when to start letting out the clutch after double/triple downshifts to get the most of your engine braking, which on the FZ6 is surprisingly controllable.

On the other side of it, too little clutch with too forceful a shift motion can "drop" the gear in, causing the bike to shudder. I'm terrible for this at low speeds if I'm not paying enough attention to the shifting, really ramming in the gear lever and not pulling in the clutch too far. Although at higher speeds when the engine is revving this method works perfectly... it's important to remember that the higher the engine RPM is, often the easier the shift is, even from 1st to 2nd with a little of that finesse I'm talking about.

Overall though I find the FZ6 a bit more forgiving than most Yamahas in this department; it's even quite nice to short shift on to keep throttle action a little more predictable at low speeds, feels almost like a big 125. At high speeds all the changes from 2nd are usually smooth for clutchless upshifts, I find myself doing it more and more recently as the Fazer just lends itself to this sort of riding... must be that R6 sport style heritage bleeding through.

 

[ShoopCE]

Zealot,

Try something simple before you do anything too involved.


Try putting some lube on the two external linkage points on the shifter mechanism at the spots shown in the picture.

My first cold weather rides two years ago were troublesome because the shifter became really balky. I was really worried that I'd bought a bike with transmission problems. Then I searched this forum and found threads that suggested simply lubricating those two spots. Worked wonderfully. I use spray on lithium grease two or three times a year.

Your issue might not be from the same because because the typical lube problem makes the downshift worse, sooner, than the upshift.

Good Luck!

 

[Zealot]

Thanks for all the info guys - really appreciate it, and plan to put what was said into play over the next couple of days to see how I fare.

Try putting some lube on the two external linkage points on the shifter mechanism at the spots shown in the picture.

Noted! I think my neighbor across the street would have some lithium grease I could borrow - I'll give this a try in addition to practicing the techniques that have been described here!

 

[Motogiro]

One more thing that I've run across is a hard shift complaint that was a result of the chain adjusted much too tightly. This person had a new tire put on the bike and a very special mechanic worked on the bike..... Could have caused other problems which are too many to mention.

 

[Zealot]

One more thing that I've run across is a hard shift complaint that was a result of the chain adjusted much too tightly. This person had a new tire put on the bike and a very special mechanic worked on the bike..... Could have caused other problems which are too many to mention.

The chain slack seems to be okay, as far as I can tell. It's within specs toward the outer end of the spectrum.

 

[rideslikean00b]

Zealot,

Try something simple before you do anything too involved.


Try putting some lube on the two external linkage points on the shifter mechanism at the spots shown in the picture.

My first cold weather rides two years ago were troublesome because the shifter became really balky. I was really worried that I'd bought a bike with transmission problems. Then I searched this forum and found threads that suggested simply lubricating those two spots. Worked wonderfully. I use spray on lithium grease two or three times a year.

Your issue might not be from the same because because the typical lube problem makes the downshift worse, sooner, than the upshift.

Good Luck!

Perfect, I do this about once a week in exactly those points and it helps keep the shifter smooth. I usually use standard WD40, I tried white grease before but it leaves nasty residue. If I run out of WD40 a little chain lube works well enough in a pinch.

 

[Motogiro]

Perfect, I do this about once a week in exactly those points and it helps keep the shifter smooth. I usually use standard WD40, I tried white grease before but it leaves nasty residue. If I run out of WD40 a little chain lube works well enough in a pinch.

Don't use the WD-40 as a lubricant. It gets gummy. It's good for initial lubricating and water displacement but then use another lube. I like Tri-Flow for those jobs.

 

[FinalImpact]

Don't use the WD-40 as a lubricant. It gets gummy. It's good for initial lubricating and water displacement but then use another lube. I like Tri-Flow for those jobs.

^^ :bow::bow: ^^

WD won't last on a door hinge inside the house! So that doesn't leave many "practical applications", well cept removing tar?!? :tard:

 

[agf]

Don't use the WD-40 as a lubricant. It gets gummy. It's good for initial lubricating and water displacement but then use another lube. I like Tri-Flow for those jobs.

Hey Cliff, is that the same TriFlow that I might have used as a chain lube on my pushbike?

 

[Motogiro]

Hey Cliff, is that the same TriFlow that I might have used as a chain lube on my pushbike?

Yes it is!

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[agf]

I might just have to get a little bottle of wax lube coz I cant find the triflow at the two bike shops here in the city. and I know my bottle at home is sitting there empty as a reminder. but its been so long since i dragged out the two wheeler that it hasn't been anywhere near my priority list. I think I need a new treadly helmet while I'm at it
and I should put the clip pedals back on
and pump up the forks( and tires)
and some new lights and a seat

ah bugger it I'll just take the 'Wasp everywhere!




but I should lube the shifter rod!!!!

 

[Motogiro]

I might just have to get a little bottle of wax lube coz I cant find the triflow at the two bike shops here in the city. and I know my bottle at home is sitting there empty as a reminder. but its been so long since i dragged out the two wheeler that it hasn't been anywhere near my priority list. I think I need a new treadly helmet while I'm at it
and I should put the clip pedals back on
and pump up the forks( and tires)
and some new lights and a seat

ah bugger it I'll just take the 'Wasp everywhere!




but I should lube the shifter rod!!!!

I like using the Tri Flow lubricant because it is a light oil and it's got Teflon in it. Many of the linkage joints are a ball and socket type and the light oil capillaries into the ball and socket more easily than wax or paraffin type lubricants. Any quality motor oil is plenty sufficient for this application.

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[Zealot]

Worth mentioning that thanks to the tips you guys gave me my first to second shifting has been smooth as butter, until I get cold fingers and then it's a bit more sloppy. Going to look into cable lube in the near future just to smooth things out a tad bit more.

Still: Huge improvement! Thanks!


(Although, my bike only feels like it has five gears and I can hardly tell when I've shifted into six, and counting down while downshifting always seems to work like I started at 5th - runs perfectly on the highway and stuff though, and can cruise at 120km/h (about 75mph) while staying just under 7K RPM, so I'm sure it's in gear properly... Just feels invisible shifting into it. That's another issue entirely, if at all)