Degrease your chain

[teeter]

I'll admit right up front that I'm pretty bad with chain maintenance. I have 14k miles (22,500km) on the clock and I've only cleaned/degreased the chain twice now. I always keep it lubed, but the poor thing is always filthy.

I think this Motul lube I've been using is too sticky. Grime is seriously attracted to it - but that's a different story..

Anyway. I degreased and scrubbed the chain last night and found that it had way too much slack. I check it every few hundred miles, but never noticed a problem. I think the sludge and gunk was keeping it stiff enough to feel tight. (not tight exactly... just the right amount of slack.) In reality though, it was scary loose. I rolled the wheel while scrubbing the side of the chain and it was chunking on the rear sprocket - I swear it was ready to jump track.

The point is? Degrease and properly clean your chain regularly! There are many reasons to do so. Not the least of which is your safety.

So, now it's clean, lubed and properly adjusted. Can't wait to ride to work this am. I bet it's a bit smoother.



I PROMISE to be better about chain maintenance from now on.

 

[Christian Denmark]

I'll admit right up front that I'm pretty bad with chain maintenance. I have 14k miles (22,500km) on the clock and I've only cleaned/degreased the chain twice now. I always keep it lubed, but the poor thing sis always filthy.

I think this Motul lube I've been using is too sticky. Grime is seriously attracted to it - but that's a different story..

Anyway. I degreased and scrubbed the chain last night and found that it had way too much slack. I check it every few hundred miles, but never noticed a problem. I think the sludge and gunk was keeping it stiff enough to feel tight. (not tight exactly... just the right amount of slack.) In reality though, it was scary loose. I rolled the wheel while scrubbing the side of the chain and it was chunking on the rear sprocket - I swear it was ready to jump track.

The point is? Degrease and properly clean your chain regularly! There are many reasons to do so. Not the least of which is your safety.

So, now it's clean, lubed and properly adjusted. Can't wait to ride to work this am. I bet it's a bit smoother.



I PROMISE to be better about chain maintenance from now on.

I can highly recommend the German product 'Kettenmax' - it is easy and clean to use:

http://www.kettenmax.at/shop/index.....html&XTCsid=3d6adc4a8e3c5b7677984ec7d79afcc1

Christian - Denmark

 

[Tailgate]

We're supposed to lube the chain?

 

[coiled]

I can highly recommend the German product 'Kettenmax' - it is easy and clean to use:

http://www.kettenmax.at/shop/index.....html&XTCsid=3d6adc4a8e3c5b7677984ec7d79afcc1

Christian - Denmark

I can second that! Clean chain in like 10 minutes not rushing and without a big mess.

 

[abacall]

We're supposed to lube the chain?

:spank: Hope that's joke....

 

[RJ2112]

Teeter.....

Chains don't 'heal'. Dirt on a chain will accelerate the rate of wear on the chain and sprockets. (that's why keeping them reasonably clean is a good idea)

Suddenly finding your chain has developed some slack in it is a typical indication that the chain is wearing out. It doesn't mean it's at the end of it's life, but once they start 'stretching' it's only a matter of time.

The chain does not 'stretch' in a uniform way..... one part of it will wear much more than another, which will make it look like the chain has developed a 'tight' spot. (It's really only tighter because it hasn't worn yet.)

This is important, because you want to avoid over tightening your chain; and it's that 'tight' part that you need to set the slack for. When you set the tension, you need to check that on 3 or 4 parts of the chain, and set it so the tightest part has enough slack.

If you do it the other way, and reduce the slack on the 'loosest' part to the minimum spec, you will cause the 'tight' part to stretch sooner (it will be too tight), and the chain will wear out more quickly than it would.

 

[teeter]

This is important, because you want to avoid over tightening your chain; and it's that 'tight' part that you need to set the slack for. When you set the tension, you need to check that on 3 or 4 parts of the chain, and set it so the tightest part has enough slack.
.

Thanks! I just checked it using that method and the slack was uniform. I guess that's good then.

How do you know when it's time to retire the chain? (That's probably its own thread..)

 

[RJ2112]

Thanks! I just checked it using that method and the slack was uniform. I guess that's good then.

How do you know when it's time to retire the chain? (That's probably its own thread..)

It's a measurement made accross the pins of a certain number of links.... when the distance increases beyond a certain point, the chain is considered to be worn out. That's at any point on the chain, rather than at the most advantageous place.

I don't have a graphic of it handy; any of the chain suppliers (Tsubaki, etc.,) should have something to demonstrate it. Outside edge of a pin to the outside edge of a pin, usually 10 links' worth...

 

[Cali rider]

Thanks! I just checked it using that method and the slack was uniform. I guess that's good then.

How do you know when it's time to retire the chain? (That's probably its own thread..)

Check out my post here:
Chain wear measurement

 

[danfree]

I just use some kerosine and a nylon brush to clean mine. The center stand makes this very easy. I have a removable master link on my dirt bike and I do this after every ride. But I only do the FZ chain about every 3 or 4 weeks or when I wash it. I do not remove the chain, just rotate the tire by hand when it's up on the center stand. I guess diesel fuel would work just as well. It is cheap and easy to get. Then I wipe it down with a rag and spray it with some KLOTZ chain lube. Very easy and only takes about 10 or 15 minutes.

 

[BranNwebster]

I bought some Orange Oil cleaner at wally world, it's crap. It didn't touch the wax. Going back to Simple Green it works pretty good.

 

[teeter]

I bought some Orange Oil cleaner at wally world, it's crap. It didn't touch the wax. Going back to Simple Green it works pretty good.

I got Orange cleaner from Home Depot. Worked great. I almost got Simple Green, but it didn't say anything on the label about de-greasing.

I'll try it when the orange stuff runs out.

I don't have kerosene lying around and I don't want to buy a can of it just for parts cleaning... or maybe I should.

I wonder how coleman white gas would do..?

 

[rider1a]

Use WD40 to clean the chain. It is mainly kerosene and it does not degrade the o-ring contrary to popular Internet myths. Follow up with chain wax or Dupont Teflon spray found in Home Depot for much cheaper price than the motorcycle sprays.

Fred

 

[abacall]

I got Orange cleaner from Home Depot. Worked great. I almost got Simple Green, but it didn't say anything on the label about de-greasing.

Careful with the SG. I've heard that it can deteriorate the O-rings.
I don't know for certain if it does.
I've always used WD-40.

 

[teeter]

The chain is good and the rear wheel is aligned perfectly, but now I have this consistent "whirrrrrrrrrr" sound coming from the rear end at 40mph and above. It's not loud, but it's noticeable. It deff wasn't there before I monkeyed around. The chain has 1.77" slack at the tightest section so I know it's not so tight that it's causing trouble for the bearings.

Great.

I've removed, installed and adjusted wheels on motorcycles many many times and never had this happen. I didn't remove the wheel or axle this time so I know I didn't change/remove anything important.

Well, that's a whole other thread I guess....


I wonder if all the goo and gunk on the chain was keeping it quiet before. Maybe I'm hearing normal chain noise.

 

[Kriswithak]

Use WD40 to clean the chain. It is mainly kerosene and it does not degrade the o-ring contrary to popular Internet myths. Follow up with chain wax or Dupont Teflon spray found in Home Depot for much cheaper price than the motorcycle sprays.

Fred

Reasons I've heard not to use WD40 is that people tend to spray it on to clean something, then when you apply a lube replacement on your chain it mixes with the WD40 still inside and doesn't stick properly meaning you end up with o ring damage due to not being lubed properly, alternatively, people don't add enough lube to replace what the WD40 cleaned out with the same result. Its more the way its used than the actual product that can do damage.
Also had mechanics and dealers advise against using WD40, so I wouldn't say its an internet myth.

 

[SANGER_A2]

I just use some kerosine and a nylon brush to clean mine. The center stand makes this very easy. I have a removable master link on my dirt bike and I do this after every ride. But I only do the FZ chain about every 3 or 4 weeks or when I wash it. I do not remove the chain, just rotate the tire by hand when it's up on the center stand. I guess diesel fuel would work just as well. It is cheap and easy to get. Then I wipe it down with a rag and spray it with some KLOTZ chain lube. Very easy and only takes about 10 or 15 minutes.

+1 on that. Kerosene does a great job, plus it's cheap. I use one of these with it:-

I lube my chain every week after getting home from work on Fridays. I clean the bike every couple weeks and I clean the chain every 4-6 weeks and check the slack.

I find that wax is too hard to clean off the chain and bike - even with kerosene and just use any normal lube. It's all the same thing!

I wouldn't advise WD-40 on the reason that it's designed to penetrate and may work underneath the o-rings and replace the lube that's already there with it's much inferior lube. This is one of the many reasons why not to of course. If there's any doubt about something and there's another option that people don't say anything bad about I use that. WD-40 is expensive compared to a massive container of kerosene anyway and I can use the kerosene to clean the wheels/tyres without making them oily (although I use car shampoo to make sure it's all got off when I wash the bike).

 

[wrightme43]

37,000 miles on orginal chain, still in great shape. Rear sprocket is begining to wear however.

Cleaned with wd-40 sprayed on thick, followed by a wipe down of brake clean on a rag, followed by dupont teflon dry lube. Dirt doesnt stick, and it stays well lubed for a long time.

Take a old chain apart, you will stop worrying about what not getting under or past the o-rings. Its a sealed chain. you are only cleaning the outside plates and rollers.

 

[Tailgate]

The chain is good and the rear wheel is aligned perfectly, but now I have this consistent "whirrrrrrrrrr" sound coming from the rear end at 40mph and above. It's not loud, but it's noticeable. It deff wasn't there before I monkeyed around. The chain has 1.77" slack at the tightest section so I know it's not so tight that it's causing trouble for the bearings.

I wonder if all the goo and gunk on the chain was keeping it quiet before. Maybe I'm hearing normal chain noise.

Mine always makes that sometimes "whirl sound" but it sounds healthy. As you, I made sure chain is not too tight and I keep it well-lubricated. I kinda like that whirl sound....

 

[teeter]

Mine always makes that sometimes "whirl sound" but it sounds healthy. As you, I made sure chain is not too tight and I keep it well-lubricated. I kinda like that whirl sound....

Wow. That's good to hear.

Maybe I won't tear apart the rear hub to check the bearing this weekend. (I mistakenly had the chain too tight for about 15 miles and worried that it damaged the bearings or something else.)