Damn TPS!!

[ant_mb]

Ok, I think I have it sorted. I removed the battery and charged it overnight. It read 11.4 V when it started, 13.7 V after. I installed it, and took a reading at the terminals, 13.1, hmmm.
Started it up, problem still there, but better. So I took it for a 15 mile ride. Still hesitating and sputtering, but a lot better. When I got back, I took another reading, 12.8 V. I changed the oil, and went for another ride. This time I head to the canyon, I'll see how far I go.
100 miles later, problem is gone! Bike rides like a champ, black smoke gone.
I took another reading, 13.1 V. That works.
I think the battery is unable to hold a charge. That makes sense, it already died once, and it sat for a week. The charge went up because I was revving it and providing lots of current. I need to get another reading tomorrow morning, see where it is. I think it's time for a new battery.
Hell, that's way better than having it sit in a garage and fix a sensor that was not even broken. Pretty sure it'll be ok.....

Man that just doesn't make much sence to me. I've ridden several hundred miles on a dead battery and never once did my bike act up. I actually had to bump start the bike whenever I killed it. I'm not saying that it's not the battery, but the charging system should keep the bike running well in the event of a dead battery.

 

[Motogiro]

Ok, I think I have it sorted. I removed the battery and charged it overnight. It read 11.4 V when it started, 13.7 V after. I installed it, and took a reading at the terminals, 13.1, hmmm.
Started it up, problem still there, but better. So I took it for a 15 mile ride. Still hesitating and sputtering, but a lot better. When I got back, I took another reading, 12.8 V. I changed the oil, and went for another ride. This time I head to the canyon, I'll see how far I go.
100 miles later, problem is gone! Bike rides like a champ, black smoke gone.
I took another reading, 13.1 V. That works.
I think the battery is unable to hold a charge. That makes sense, it already died once, and it sat for a week. The charge went up because I was revving it and providing lots of current. I need to get another reading tomorrow morning, see where it is. I think it's time for a new battery.
Hell, that's way better than having it sit in a garage and fix a sensor that was not even broken. Pretty sure it'll be ok.....

Your Gooood! I had a feeling you would find it.....Some thing doesn't like the threshold voltage below 11.6 vdc and another thing is that a battery acts much like a capacitor and when defective can cause other problems you would only see with an "O" scope. Also never unhook a modern charging system from the battery, like they used to do, and some people still do. People used to do this to see if they had a defective generator and it carried over to alternating charging systems which is a very risky thing to do.
Anyway :steve:Congratulations!

 

[abacall]

Man that just doesn't make much sence to me. I've ridden several hundred miles on a dead battery .

See, that's what threw me off too. I have done this as well. On this battery.
I think that the difference is in the battery's ability to hold the charge. The bike's charging system can provide the power, but the battery stores it and delivers it when needed. If the charging system is not providing enough current (anytime it's below 5K rpm), the system draws it from the battery. If the battery is only at 11.7 V and the system needs 12.8, there might not be enough current for the sensors to get the information needed by the ECU. That throws a fault code and puts the bike into "limp."
Ok, that's my theory anyway.
One big problem with it.... The bike does not go into "limp" mode when Code 46 is thrown..... IDK. I'm just glad the bike runs right.

Thanks nccoder. It feels good to find the source and fix it, it's like a big puzzle. Let's hope I put it together right.

 

[04fizzer]

I had the same prob. check your o2 sensor::spank:

04-06 (maybe up to 07, Im' starting to lose track) do not have O2 sensors.

 

[Morcs]

I saw some where on our forum a way to to get into the diagnostics and you can actually see the TPS output and whether it is within specs. This could possibly eliminate or confirm that the TPS is in fact the problem.

Apparently thats almost irrelevant - I checked mine, went up every increment in the test and was perfect - shop tells me that doesnt matter and they still think my TPS is poked.