Damn TPS!!

abacall

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I am not a happy rider right now. I took the bike out the other day and I got some really strange throttle action happening.
At about 10-30% throttle opening the bike surges/hesitates. The sound coming from the exhaust sounds like crap, and the bike rides pretty unpredictable at that throttle opening. It even stalled while riding home.
I'm pretty sure its the TPS sensor, as I called and they said it was never done. It also rides pretty normal after 30%.

Here's the big PIA. I leave to go to Massachusetts for about a month on the 25th. I'm already pissed I won't be able to ride at all that month, and right now the shop is 2 weeks out! So, that means that I won't get my bike back until I get back from Mass at the end of JULY!!! :spank:

I am pretty damn pissed right now......
 

Motogiro

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I saw some where on our forum a way to to get into the diagnostics and you can actually see the TPS output and whether it is within specs. This could possibly eliminate or confirm that the TPS is in fact the problem.
 

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bmccrary

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You can change it yourself in about 4 hours, if you take your time and are mechanically comfortable.

-Remove tank and airbox.
-Get some long extensions and loosen up the clamps around the throttle bodies to the intake runners. With out removing the throttle cables you have a little room to work with, which is just enough to do the job.
-Mark where the old TPS is as it can be rotated. If you dont have the special saftey star key wrenches, use a small pair of vice grips to remove the bolts.
-Unplug old TPS and replace with new TPS in old TPS possition.
-Dont overtighten the TPS, leave it snug.
-Set everything back on and plugged in, but leave bolts loose.
-Do the systems check to determine the range of the TPS. If not inspec rotate TPS and recheck.
-Once in spec, torge everything down and go ride.

-bryan
 

abacall

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Thanks for that.. So, the first code was stuck TPS detected.
Now I also had some other codes as well. Unfortunately they are not listed in the service manual. Anyone know where I can get a full list of codes?

EDIT: OK, now I feel retarded :tard:.. How do I read the codes? The first value I had was 01-16. I thought that meant fault code 16, diag code 01 - meaning stuck TPS. Now I think it means sensor 01 (TPS) reads 16 (should be between 15-17 at closed throttle). :confused:
 
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Motogiro

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Thanks for that.. So, the first code was stuck TPS detected.
Now I also had some other codes as well. Unfortunately they are not listed in the service manual. Anyone know where I can get a full list of codes?

EDIT: OK, now I feel retarded :tard:.. How do I read the codes? The first value I had was 01-16. I thought that meant fault code 16, diag code 01 - meaning stuck TPS. Now I think it means sensor 01 (TPS) reads 16 (should be between 15-17 at closed throttle). :confused:

Once you're in the diagnostics to read the TPS you should be able to see a reading with the throttle closed, Mark that reading down. Then open the throttle all the way, write the number down. See if that meets the specs for that. Also open and close the throttle very slowly and see if the numbers jump around. They should change pretty smoothly. I forget what the min./ max. numbers are supposed to be.
 

abacall

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Ok, just did that. At closed it reads 16, fully open it reads 98. All within spec.
BUT, I just went for a ride and the bike runs like crap. Same thing, throttle open about 10-30% and the bike surges/hesitates. It crackles and pops under decel like mad, and the pipes now have a very dark black coating on the tips that was not there before the ride. That (to me) indicates a very rich mixture. I read that the bike goes into "limp" mode and richens that fuel mixture when the readings from the TPS are faulty.
Note: the surging/hesitation is with the throttle at a steady position.

The mystery deepens. I would rather not drop the bike off if I don't have to.
Any other suggestions? How can I check for faulty codes? I thought diag mode did that, but it just runs through the sensors..... I am so confused.:confused:
 

abacall

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Ok. I got it..
The diag codes detect sensors and possible problems. When you reach diag code 61, it displays the trouble code (in my case 46). Diag code 62 tells you how many total codes (in my case 1).
So.... It's not my TPS, rather the codes reads "Power supply to the FI system is not normal," or "Malfunction in charging system."
Great...... Now, can anyone point me in the right direction to find this problem? Strange, the fuel system voltage reads 11.6V Seems as good as it can get...
 

Motogiro

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Ok. I got it..
The diag codes detect sensors and possible problems. When you reach diag code 61, it displays the trouble code (in my case 46). Diag code 62 tells you how many total codes (in my case 1).
So.... It's not my TPS, rather the codes reads "Power supply to the FI system is not normal," or "Malfunction in charging system."
Great...... Now, can anyone point me in the right direction to find this problem? Strange, the fuel system voltage reads 11.6V Seems as good as it can get...
Some one did post that they had the same problem with a bad O2 sensor. The 11+ volts you're seeing on the fuel system maybe should read close to what the battery voltage is. 11+ vdc is kind of a nominal voltage and should run most things on the bike but if it's below threshold voltage for certain devices it could cause a problem. I would make sure you're seeing what is specified for the battery voltage which should be 12+ vdc. At least you've started a process of elimination. One more thing I always do when I have a hiccup on a motor is do a CPU reset. Unhook the battery for a few minutes. Give it 15 minutes. Re-hook the battery. Start the bike and let it warm up. Take it for a spin and see if it clears up that anomaly. Your getting closer!
 
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abacall

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Going to check the battery voltage and trace all the wiring harnesses from the battery to the ECU. Another thing that has crossed my mind is the PCIII. I need to double check all the connections there as well.
First, a "hard" reset. 15 minutes of no battery charge while I check the wiring.

Some one did post that they had the same problem with a bad O2 sensor.

Where is it and how do I check it?
 

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Going to check the battery voltage and trace all the wiring harnesses from the battery to the ECU. Another thing that has crossed my mind is the PCIII. I need to double check all the connections there as well.
First, a "hard" reset. 15 minutes of no battery charge while I check the wiring.

Cool....
 

abacall

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Ok, latest. Hard reset did nothing. I traced positive lead from the battery to the main switch, and then to the ECU. Nothing loose or damaged. I checked the wiring from the PCIII and all is solid.
I ran the bike, same code. After it warmed a bit, I gave it some throttle and what do I see? Black smoke. Lots of it when the RPMs drop, but none when they rise.
Another ting I discovered. The open circuit voltage was 11.7 V. I thought that would be fine, guess again. Service manual states the charge should be minimum 12.8 !! At 11.7 the battery charge is only at 20%. Ok, I think I may have found the culprit. I'm going to remove the battery and trickle charge it tonight. I've had problems with the battery before, and it did die on me earlier this season.
But why would that give me black smoke and hesitation and stuttering?:confused:

nccoder, thanks for working with me through this. Sometimes it takes a dialogue to figure things out.
 

abacall

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Ok, I think I have it sorted. I removed the battery and charged it overnight. It read 11.4 V when it started, 13.7 V after. I installed it, and took a reading at the terminals, 13.1, hmmm.
Started it up, problem still there, but better. So I took it for a 15 mile ride. Still hesitating and sputtering, but a lot better. When I got back, I took another reading, 12.8 V. I changed the oil, and went for another ride. This time I head to the canyon, I'll see how far I go.
100 miles later, problem is gone! Bike rides like a champ, black smoke gone.
I took another reading, 13.1 V. That works.
I think the battery is unable to hold a charge. That makes sense, it already died once, and it sat for a week. The charge went up because I was revving it and providing lots of current. I need to get another reading tomorrow morning, see where it is. I think it's time for a new battery.
Hell, that's way better than having it sit in a garage and fix a sensor that was not even broken. Pretty sure it'll be ok.....
 
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