Cuts out on steering

[neilw]

Hello,
I know it must be a short, but I'm stumped as to where to look.

I've had my FZ6 for 3 years (almost from new) and no problems at all, it's in perfect condition.

This morning as soon as I move the handlebars ever so slightly off-centre to the right the ignition cuts out, whether the bike has started or not, then goes back on when I move the handlebars back. It was fine last night.

I've wiggled every visible wire and nothing is giving, I'm probably wrong but it feels as if it's something inside the ignition block.

Seems that this is very consistent and always at the same point, so I'd have thought if it was a loose or shorting wire it would either break or happen randomly?

Anyone had this before or got any ideas?

Thanks.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've never heard of that issue on the FZ6 but some of the Gen II FJR's had a recall on the ignition switch. Seems one soldiered joint wasn't done to snuff..

Another issue (FJR) was the wire loom was zip tied TOO TIGHT near the ignition causing un-due stress and failure near the switch. I'm assuming YOU DIDN'T ZIP TIE anything to that harness near the switch...

It sounds as if you have an internally broken wire inside the wiring loom near the ignition switch...

Short of replacing the ignition switch assembly and ignition wiring harness, initially, I would check the wires right before the go INTO the switch. By checking I mean not just manipulating but PUSHING THE HARNESS TOWARDS THE SWITCH.

Of course cutting the protective cover ever so carefully around near the top and sliding it downward would give much better access to ALL the wires. You can later slide it back up (electrical tape to the top to hold it back in its original place once done).

Manipulating/pushing each wire in this area should pinpoint which and where the problem is. You'll likely have to soldier in a short piece of new wire.

Side note, I had an 1979 AMF Sportster many moons ago that suffered from among other things, an internally shorted wire for the ignition. The outside of the wire looked fine, manipulating it inch by inch, I found the bad spot...
Did the same thing on a neighbors boats bilge pump wiring (a straight run yet).

Good luck and please post what you find...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Should you not be able to locate the short, a new ignition switch (comes with the wiring in question) should solve your problem.

I know the older FJR's (similar ignition switch) COULD be rekeyed to match your old ignition key (it was done under warranty on the FJR re-call (if you bitched enough).

The upper triple clamp needs to come off (jack the ft end up just keeping the tire barely touching the ground). Flip the triple clamp over. The security bolts can be removed by center punching the funky head and drilling off the head. Once the heads are gone, you can slide the old switch off the bolts. Use a vise grip to remove the now, cut off, old bolts.

I'd replace the bolts with SS allan head bolts once the new switch is installed, locktited back in the triple. Re-assemble and go ride...

*Use lots of large, cloth towels under the area where your working/drilling so all the metal shards aren't falling (and later rusting) and also to protect the tank, etc...

A link that may be useful: http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=103354

 

[mylo]

happened me before ,but i had an error code on the screen error 51 are u getting any code ? my problem was the wires had melted off the plastic covering them leaving bare copper , i just taped them back up with electrical tape , so hopefully its just that and not an ignition issue

 

[neilw]

Hello,
Thanks. No error codes.

i removed the headlight and it's the wiring loom that goes into the ignition. Well, attached to below the ignition is a kind of black metal housing (rectangular) which looks like it might be attached using hex bolts and it's the wires in the sheath that goes into that.

If I simply prod that the electrics switch off.

If it's the worst case and it's right inside is it possible to remove the housing for the ignition. I'm sure it looked like hex bolts but I think I read somewhere it's bolts you cannot remove?

I take it if I need a new ignition then I'll be needing new keys (it's a 2008/9 model) programmed and work done on the YISS, which sounds costly....?
Thanks.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm not familiar with the immobilizer set up which isn't available here in the US. It isn't addressed in my Yamaha manuals...

You really don't have anything to loose at this point and IMHO, I'd carefully try and remove the unit and get to the wires. If the housing is just bolted/screwed together, I'd give it a try and take it apart.

You can also contact your local Yamaha dealer, describe what part is bad and see exactly what's needed to fix it.

Good luck...

 

[FinalImpact]

From the factory there's a big zip tie on the left stanchion tube. On mine its far enough away from the switch that it really strains the harness when steered. I cut and let it move as I can see that over time its going to stress the wires to point of failure.

I'd guess if you can solder and splice and are good with such tools, know what shrink tubing is; there is no need to replace the switch but the downside about making a splice is it makes new area that doesn't bend and/or is not as pliable as the adjacent area next to the splice and can fail again due to strain.
-> A replacement switch is likely the best idea. . .

 

[neilw]

Good news

My mate came along, we cut all the zip ties and eventually found the bundle that was failing (at first it seemed random), I don't know where it was from but the waterproof sheath had a white band around it.

Anyway we found what we thought was the place causing it to cut out and on cutting the sheath we found the cable (it was brown with blue stripe) was severed almost all the way through.

I'd say it was half way between the headlight and the tank on a horizontal strip.

So tomorrow I'm going round his as he's got a soldering iron.

I've absolutely no idea how that split as there didn't seem any way possible, unless it was always there and just eventually broke (either from the factory or the previous owner).

So, thanks for all the help. I'm just glad it wasn't anything more serious or I was riding it at the time