Code 46 Power Supply to system

[astrovan2487]

I've been having the same issue with my bike flashing a code 46 since some time last year. I installed a new battery last year and still have the same issue. It seems like it's not as bad, the engine light will only come on once or twice for a few seconds then not show up again. Last year it would come on after riding a good 20 minutes then would stay on until I came to a stop, would go off then the light would come right back on after going above about 4000rpms. The new battery load tested at 10.2 vdc, charging system tested at 14.0 vdc. I did a leakage test and found no problems. The stator windings have no continuity to ground but the resistance is a little out of spec. My meter is reading .4, .4, and .5 ohms between the three stator wires and the spec. is supposed to be between .22 and .34 ohms. Does this mean I need a new stator or could it just be my meter?

 

[FinalImpact]

I've been having the same issue with my bike flashing a code 46 since some time last year. I installed a new battery last year and still have the same issue. It seems like it's not as bad, the engine light will only come on once or twice for a few seconds then not show up again. Last year it would come on after riding a good 20 minutes then would stay on until I came to a stop, would go off then the light would come right back on after going above about 4000rpms. The new battery load tested at 10.2 vdc, charging system tested at 14.0 vdc. I did a leakage test and found no problems. The stator windings have no continuity to ground but the resistance is a little out of spec. My meter is reading .4, .4, and .5 ohms between the three stator wires and the spec. is supposed to be between .22 and .34 ohms. Does this mean I need a new stator or could it just be my meter?

The small amount of difference could be as simple as shorting your meter leads to each other - subtract that (the leads themselves) from the number recorded.

Personally I don't think that's what it is. If it were mine I'd disconnect the battery and remove the fuel tank. Starting with the ECM unplug all connections and inspect them looking for corrosion, pushed out pins, burning, discoloration, etc. It may even be a broken or pinched wire.

Does it by chance happen over bumps or while steering? Try moving the wires below the bars as they enter the frame and see if you can induce it.

In short, the ECM is reading something less than 12v supplied to the fuel injectors so its a connection issue.

Don't hesitate to pull the run/stop switch apart and clean that also. It feeds the ignition coils but its a good place to start!
Again, looking at this stuff from the outside is not going to solve this one (not likely at least), so a detailed inspection is needed. Grab a friend and a six pack and dig in!

 

[FinalImpact]

One more thing:
The fuel pump runs on this same circuit. If its drawing too much current it could possibly induce this fault.

Be sure to pull and inspect all fuses and the starter relay under the left pod. Power goes from the battery, to the starter lock out relay, then to the fuel pump and injectors. So if it not a bad wire or connection, that leaves the starter lock out relay and the fuel pump. We can measure those with a hand held meter.

 

[Plymothian]

Just thought I'd update the forum on what happened to my FZ6 recently. I also had the fault code 46 showing up, and I also had a headlight blow out. I took it to the garage (bike is past the 3 month warranty but they agreed to cover it anyway), they fitted a new bulb and tested the charging system - they said when they "tightened up the wires" on the reg/rectifier it started charging properly so they handed it back to me. next day the engine light was still coming on with fault code 46, and an hour into my ride the headlight bulb had blown again. Half an hour later and the bike starts to splutter and misfire, and then dies completely. Once stopped, my reg/rectifier is smoking so I know what the problem is!

The garage were not willing to do any more work under warranty, which I understand, so have just ordered a new reg/rectifier and will fit it myself. Hopefully this was the problem.

 

[Motogiro]

Just thought I'd update the forum on what happened to my FZ6 recently. I also had the fault code 46 showing up, and I also had a headlight blow out. I took it to the garage (bike is past the 3 month warranty but they agreed to cover it anyway), they fitted a new bulb and tested the charging system - they said when they "tightened up the wires" on the reg/rectifier it started charging properly so they handed it back to me. next day the engine light was still coming on with fault code 46, and an hour into my ride the headlight bulb had blown again. Half an hour later and the bike starts to splutter and misfire, and then dies completely. Once stopped, my reg/rectifier is smoking so I know what the problem is!

The garage were not willing to do any more work under warranty, which I understand, so have just ordered a new reg/rectifier and will fit it myself. Hopefully this was the problem.

If the regulator/rectifier was at fault and you are blowing headlight filaments there may have been an over voltage problem, meaning the shunt regulator was wide open. I would take it back to them and tell them they did not not repair it as they should have and if there were parts covered under warranty they should replace them. Also check your running lights. Tail and license plate light because if it was an over voltage problem blowing the headlight the other filaments may have also blown.

Do you know what the battery voltage was after the bike died! Is the battery dead?

 

[FinalImpact]

If the regulator/rectifier was at fault and you are blowing headlight filaments there may have been an over voltage problem, meaning the shunt regulator was wide open. I would take it back to them and tell them they did not not repair it as they should have and if there were parts covered under warranty they should replace them also check your running lights. Tail and license plate light because if it was an over voltage problem blowing the headlight the other filaments may have also blown.

Do you know what the battery voltage was after the bike died! Is the battery dead?

It may have been boiled the battery too and because it vents under the steel tank I'd opt for thorough wipe down with baking soda/water solution and then soap and water (If the battery has vent caps that is). ALSO - REMOVE IT CHECK FOR BULGES!!!

I'm not sure how they could miss this one unless they NEVER placed a meter to it while it was running. If however it was connected to t running vehicle while in your possession, that may explain how it failed. Smoke coming from the RR is not a good sign and IF you plan to throw a NEW RR on there, I'd certainly want the stator coils inspected for burns too.

No reason to accept damaged bike. i.e. if you road around the world in 3 months adding 50,000 miles = ya, yours to keep. If you rode 200 miles and have all this since buying it, they need to pay up.

 

[Plymothian]

No I didn't check the battery after i got it home, it was a new one as well so I hope it's not damaged. I don't have any comeback with the garage now, as it was past it's 3 month warranty. They did look into it for me after the warranty had expired, as a favour, but I don't know how thorough they were. According to them they expected a charging issue, put the volt meter on, and when wiggled the wires on the RR it started charging properly.

Oddly enough, the old battery that I replaced (which is still fine btw, holding a charge) is really bulging - on the sides and on the bottom. Is this too dodgy to use again even though it's holding charge still?

 

[Motogiro]

No I didn't check the battery after i got it home, it was a new one as well so I hope it's not damaged. I don't have any comeback with the garage now, as it was past it's 3 month warranty. They did look into it for me after the warranty had expired, as a favour, but I don't know how thorough they were. According to them they expected a charging issue, put the volt meter on, and when wiggled the wires on the RR it started charging properly.

Oddly enough, the old battery that I replaced (which is still fine btw, holding a charge) is really bulging - on the sides and on the bottom. Is this too dodgy to use again even though it's holding charge still?

As I suspected there was an over voltage failure. I've seen this before. The shunt regulator was wide open and the failure may have occurred if the bike was jump started from a car that had it's engine running.

Again, please check your other lamp filaments to ensure they are working correctly. Don't forget the brake light.

The battery is capable of storing an amount of current that could be dangerous. Since the battery has physical damage, I would not use it. Turn it in to a battery shop for recycling and disposal.

 

[Plymothian]

thanks for the reminder, yes I will certainly check the other bulbs. Don't suppose anyone could direct me to a "how to change headlight" thread? Looked at the Haynes manual it seems to show you have to remove the entire dash/windshield assembly. Is this right? I tried doing it but there seemed to be hundreds of nuts to undo, and I couldn't get to half of them

 

[Motogiro]

thanks for the reminder, yes I will certainly check the other bulbs. Don't suppose anyone could direct me to a "how to change headlight" thread? Looked at the Haynes manual it seems to show you have to remove the entire dash/windshield assembly. Is this right? I tried doing it but there seemed to be hundreds of nuts to undo, and I couldn't get to half of them

Should be a rubber boot at the back of the lamp. Pull the wire plug off the lamp. You may have to wiggle it off gently. Pull the boot/weather cover off. It should reveal a wire retainer clip that holds the lamp assembly in it's socket. Push down and sideways on the little handle on the clip. This should release the lamp.

Have some alcohol ready to make sure you wipe the glass part of the halogen bulb to free it of any oils from you fingers etc.

Reverse to put the lamp back in, noting it has a key for proper rotation in the installation.

 

[Plymothian]

Should be a rubber boot at the back of the lamp. Pull the wire plug off the lamp. You may have to wiggle it off gently. Pull the boot/weather cover off. It should reveal a wire retainer clip that holds the lamp assembly in it's socket. Push down and sideways on the little handle on the clip. This should release the lamp.

Reverse to put the lamp back in, noting it has a key for proper installation.

brilliant, thanks. Thought I was making too much of a meal of it, I had visions of the entire front end coming off with pieces strewn across the floor whilst I cry long into the night

 

[Motogiro]

brilliant, thanks. Thought I was making too much of a meal of it, I had visions of the entire front end coming off with pieces strewn across the floor whilst I cry long into the night

Lol! :rof:

 

[FinalImpact]

brilliant, thanks. Thought I was making too much of a meal of it, I had visions of the entire front end coming off with pieces strewn across the floor whilst I cry long into the night

This pic has the fairing off as I was installing pod lights. But you get the idea.

I would pull the existing battery and inspect it for bulging, cracks, leaks, heat checks, stretching and confirm it is OK too. Just to be safe.