Clutch not fully engaged?

[RedsReboot]

I have finished making cosmetic repairs to the bike and fired it up today. It had not been started in about 6 months, but aside from extra fuel prime time it started right up.

The problem is that I have a squirrel in the clutch and it doesn't seem to be fully engaged. I put the bike on the center stand and squeez the clutch. I shift while holding in the clutch and the bike kinda clunks into the gear and tire spins when it should not engage. The bike will not start if it's in any gear even while engaging the clutch. I put it in nuetral and it fires right up. As far as free rolling the bike, it has resistance if I push it and it's in gear. Pulling the clutch though still dissengages enough to easily move the bike around. Is there any other way to adjust the clutch besides the knob by the lever?

I just changed the oil and it's at the correct level.

ideas?

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

You have to raise the tank and remove the airbox to get to the other adjustment point. Heres a good thread if you want to go that route-
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/14605-adjusting-clutch-cable.html

 

[RJ2112]

I have finished making cosmetic repairs to the bike and fired it up today. It had not been started in about 6 months, but aside from extra fuel prime time it started right up.

The problem is that I have a squirrel in the clutch and it doesn't seem to be fully engaged. I put the bike on the center stand and squeez the clutch. I shift while holding in the clutch and the bike kinda clunks into the gear and tire spins when it should not engage. The bike will not start if it's in any gear even while engaging the clutch. I put it in nuetral and it fires right up. As far as free rolling the bike, it has resistance if I push it and it's in gear. Pulling the clutch though still dissengages enough to easily move the bike around. Is there any other way to adjust the clutch besides the knob by the lever?

I just changed the oil and it's at the correct level.

ideas?

If your clutch was fine before you stored it for 6 months, I wouldn't be too worried about the wheel moving with the clutch engaged in first on the centerstand. Not that unusual to have a bit of drag between the two after the plates had sat in contact for a long period.

I'd be more concerned with why it doesn't want to start in gear. That almost certainly means the idiot switch on the clutch is stuck in the 'out' position. You need to grab a can of WD-40, and spray some into the micro switch at the lever, as well as the one at the side stand. Once you've wetted them, make sure and cycle the plunger on the micro switch a bunch of times.

When you can get the bike to start in gear, off the center stand, ride the bike. After you have a dozen miles or so on it, check the clutches action again.
:thumbup:

 

[RedsReboot]

Thanks all. Just to follow up. Both of the switch/sensors (kickstand and clutch handle) were corroded. After running it for a long while and relentlessly engaging the clutch until my hands hurt it was working great. I opened the filler cap and could see it move smooth and quiet. I also had the reassurance my oil pump is working with the amount flying around in there.

The only thing left is to figure out why my horn and brake light(running light works) are dead. I already searched the forum and only found that people swear the fuse looks good, but still turns out bad. I guess I'll try that later tonight.

 

[04fizzer]

Thanks all. Just to follow up. Both of the switch/sensors (kickstand and clutch handle) were corroded. After running it for a long while and relentlessly engaging the clutch until my hands hurt it was working great. I opened the filler cap and could see it move smooth and quiet. I also had the reassurance my oil pump is working with the amount flying around in there.

The only thing left is to figure out why my horn and brake light(running light works) are dead. I already searched the forum and only found that people swear the fuse looks good, but still turns out bad. I guess I'll try that later tonight.

Use a multimeter with a continuity setting (the audible ones are great), and test them. You can't always see the break in the filament.

Your horn could be corroded and stuck. I had an old bike that did that. I just dealt with it when I really should have just replaced it.

 

[RedsReboot]

Use a multimeter with a continuity setting (the audible ones are great), and test them. You can't always see the break in the filament.

Your horn could be corroded and stuck. I had an old bike that did that. I just dealt with it when I really should have just replaced it.

I was sent offshore so it took a while to get back to this.

No joy. I replaced EVERY standard fuse. I put a meter into the two coonectors on the brake side and tried the brake. No change in voltage. I tried connecting the meter to the two wires on the clutch side that would go perfectly to the horns mounted position and tried the horn button. No change in voltage. Something might have happened after my accident. I rode the bike to work that morning right after my accident and I had brake light, but no running light because the fuse blew for some reason in the accident. I didn't know this until someone pulled up beside me and warned me:thumbupsouth Louisiana is mostly pro-biker).

I've repaired so much I can't tell for sure what's right without another bike to compare. Is it the wires that come out of the left group of cables going to the clutch that go to the horn. Without stipping insulation and tracing wires, it would seem that the circuit is completed by pushing the horn button and sending the juice through these two wires that have spade connectors on them White/Black.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I was sent offshore so it took a while to get back to this.

No joy. I replaced EVERY standard fuse. I put a meter into the two coonectors on the brake side and tried the brake. No change in voltage. I tried connecting the meter to the two wires on the clutch side that would go perfectly to the horns mounted position and tried the horn button. No change in voltage. Something might have happened after my accident. I rode the bike to work that morning right after my accident and I had brake light, but no running light because the fuse blew for some reason in the accident. I didn't know this until someone pulled up beside me and warned me:thumbupsouth Louisiana is mostly pro-biker).

I've repaired so much I can't tell for sure what's right without another bike to compare. Is it the wires that come out of the left group of cables going to the clutch that go to the horn. Without stipping insulation and tracing wires, it would seem that the circuit is completed by pushing the horn button and sending the juice through these two wires that have spade connectors on them White/Black.

I'd change out the rear bulb just to rule out you don't have a broken filiment.. BTW, Yamaha makes a rear bulb unlike a car bulb, it has 3 supports for the filiment unlike the two supports for an automotive application. You can use the 2 support for testing purposes but it won't last as long as the Yamaha bulb and the yamaha bulb is slightly brighter (I tested a yamaha bulb and a reg bulb next to each other in my FJR ((2 tail lights)) and the Yamaha bulb is indeed brighter)..

BTW, all the wires for the tail light/licence plate/rear directionals plug into the main harness under the left side pod.

As for horn, unplug the horn wires and put a test light to lead to ground and then the point of the litest light to each wire. Activate the horn button with the ignition on, one of the wires should light up. If it does, the other wire isn't grounding or the horn itself failed. Checking the horn, simply apply 12 volts + and - to each terminals...


Just curious, what part of the bike was obviously damaged in the wreck? it help in diagnosing your problem..


As a side note, with the FZ having a single tail light/brake light, I was concerned about should the single bulb fail. I ended up adding a combination "Hyperlight" set up backing up the single Yamaha bulb. Its just above the tag.